boat 455 olds rusted/frozen

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My jet has been sitting up a long time and I've not rotated or oiled the engine due to accessibility issues.

Its frozen solid. I think only one cylinder is rusted. I've tried pb blaster for several days. A few days ago I mixed up approx 70% diesel and 30% used atf I had recently drained and filled all cylinders full.

Hopefully time will eventually free it. I might suck out the atf and try some vinegar or evaporust to dissolve the rust for a few weeks then put the atf mix back in. I suppose I could heat the mix with a torch then put it in.
 
Did you try turning it with a wrench, plugs out? Can you get an inpact wrench on the crank nut? If so try that at low power.
 
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Apple cider vinegar totally removes all rust.

IIWY I'd completely dran everything out of it and fill to the brim with apple cider vinegar. Let it sit for a couple of days and drain it, refill with MMO and let sit for a couple of days, take the plugs out and turn it by hand.
 
Wouldn't use ACV, as it will create a battery between dissimilar metals, and there will be metal goes missing.

Molasses won't work while the residual oil is there too.

My old man got an Austin 7 to turn by penetrene in the plughole, and rocking it back and forth a couple times a day against the "stick"...after a week, he got a full turn.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Hopefully time will eventually free it. I might suck out the atf and try some vinegar or evaporust to dissolve the rust for a few weeks then put the atf mix back in. I suppose I could heat the mix with a torch then put it in.



Have you ever considered just taking it apart and fixing it right? By the time you monkey around with all of the home remedies that may or may not work, you could just take it apart, fix it, and then be done with it. And it's a good lesson-if you're going to store an engine long term, a little prep work prevents bigger problems.
 
I would worry about things you intend to deal with rust getting into bearings.

MMO is good for a soak. Use a wrench or impact back and forth to free things up.

So one might assume with a rusted cylinde, that you have an exhaust manifold leak or riser leak. They should be pulled and rodded and tested.
 
I've 'unfrozen' a number of engines over the years. PBBlaster is a pretty good product for a 'soak' these days for this. I like to take a look in the cylinders with a borescope first, then pull the valve covers and tap each rocker/valve-the feel and sound will indicate which are free or stuck. Then hose everything with PB over a few days with a breaker bar on the crankbolt=looking for any movement. I'll sometimes add a pipe as an extension and some weight on that for more lever arm/torque..and in both directions. Often they will eventually 'give up'and break free=and there is generally some damage/corrosion-good luck.
 
Oh-FWIW-on a boneyard or other engine sitting for an extended period, the in-line engines generally suffer less as any water/condensation is more uniform, but the 'V' engines can be worse as there is the pooling at the lowest point in the cylinder. So in this small area is the worse rusting and problems.
 
I've unstuck a old merc 6 straight 6, by filling the cylinders with "liquid wrench". I put a few oz's in each cylinder and tapped on the flywheel a few times in each direction. After a week I could spin it over .Then the bad news, apparently the no.1 cyl had a crack that let water into the cyl, and that's why it stuck in the first place. Hope yours is just stubborn.,,,
 
I have unstuck two 7.4L GM big blocks by using PB blaster and MMO in the cylinders soaking for 1-2 weeks.(keep re-filling) then use a 1/2 inch drive and a pipe on a breaker bar on the crankshaft nut and stand on it. (do remove the serpentine belt and make certain the transmission is in neutral)

Both engines were fine after running for a few hours. (and 1-2 oil changes)

BTW when it starts run the engine for about 3-5 minutes on idle and then change the oil to a 15w40 and run that 30 -60 minutes then change again.
 
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If your-choice-of-penetrating-oil isn't cutting it probably should be torn down...

That said, I've found silikroil to work better than anything else for busting rusty nuts loose. Might consider that. Or do the 50/50 ATF aceetone, though it seperates readily so not sure how well it'll work for a true piston soak.

MMO may work; I had a very old slip joint pocket knife which was totally rusted together, soaked in in MMO for a week (full immersion) and it opened right up.
 
Originally Posted By: Doog
I have unstuck two 7.4L GM big blocks by using PB blaster and MMO in the cylinders soaking for 1-2 weeks.(keep re-filling) then use a 1/2 inch drive and a pipe on a breaker bar


I'm thinking I'll need a 4' 3/4 drive bar with a special crank adapter that bolts to the 3 harmonic balancer bolts. The balancer bolt is 160 ft/lbs and I've already felt it tighten with my torque wrench. My Pontiac 301 took 120 ft lbs to turn with just slightly tight bearings. Not even a stuck engine.

I'm thinking it'll take 1000 ft lbs to get this thing to break its ring bond with the cylinder walls. I'll stick a dowell in the spark plug hole and tap too.

Heat is another thing I might have to get to eventually.
 
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photo-gallery


Im having trouble posting a Pict with this cheap tablet.

I was just out tinkering. Sucked the oil out of #8 ( rusted cylinder) and put some eastwood fast etch in. I'll let that soak overnight. I'm sucking out visible rust particles so it ain't good. I'm hoping the piston is really close to tdc saving the cylinder.
 
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I pulled the head and there is some cylinder rust on #8. I've been cleaning the pistons but I've still got to get this thing to rotate. I've been thinking about sliding a feeler gauge between the piston and cylinder to try and work out some of the rust and gunk. Maybe break a rust bond between the ring and bore. I'll also use a propane torch to heat the piston. Bang on the piston with a 2x4, not too hard though as I don't want to break the ring land.

If I can get it rotating then its a matter of if I can adequately clean up the bore with sandpaper or a hone. The other cylinders look perfect.
 
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When I saw the 455 Olds I knew it was a jet boat. ! I really like the Bubble deck design. When Sanger first came out with the design I fell in love with it , A guy a few blocks away has a Sanger Bubble deck and when ever he is out I'll stop by chatt a bit and drool over the boat.
 
The boat is a colorado custom Starbuck. It originally had an olds 403. I blew that up within months of purchase and put this 455 engine out of a 73 olds 98. I stupidly threw out the nice marine G heads with the big intake valves.

This thing is stuck real good. I'm having doubts it'll turn again without a rebuild. The cylinder could be sleeved or just bored oversize.
 
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