Dump the car?

[supton]

Well, if it's not rusty (frame body etc), then price out a new exhaust system, 'cuz it sounds like it's next on the list. If not this year then soon.

I'd determine how much you are willing to spend on this car next month for repairs, and over the course of this year, and what the car is worth to you. It's usually cheaper to keep repairing a car but there seems to be no end of cars on CL with lots of repairs that seem to be in excess of the car's value--something else gave and broke the camel's back.

 

[Leo99]

You're probably looking at $3000 in repairs in the next year or two. I'd dump it off on someone that wants it for the engine/tranny and wants to invest in it.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: ecotourist
Your car doesn't sound too bad to me - but that's just me. It hardly ever "pays" to buy a new car. Only exception is if the cost of repairs is a significant percentage of the value of the car. Repairs recently completed don't increase the value much. If you don't like your current car, it no longer meets your needs, or you want a different car that's different.

...


Either you make repairs or you make payments.

Known maintenance history (yours) and needs a few things....plus your wife likes it; to me that means keep and repair. You will always have the option of getting another vehicle. If you make all the repairs your private resale will be higher (although you may not recoup it all) if and when you need to sell or trade.

 

[cptbarkey]

just sold an 02 impreza (non turbo) to neighbors with 192k on it. engine runs excellent and passed strict big city emissions without an issue. that said, you are lucky to make that kind of mileage on that turbo. i would definitely sell that car, just know that some 17 year old will blow that engine in less than 3 months so please put "as is no warranty" all over the bill of sale. good luck.

 

[oilmutt]

Here is how i would look at it,add up all repairs for the last 5 years if over $2,500 per year,sell the car,if $2,000 or less per year keep the car.Be sure to include the up comming costs. Good luck!

 

[Jarlaxle]

I would try to keep it until fall...then sell it on CL with the words "ALL WHEEL DRIVE" and "READY FOR SNOW!" in the ad.

 

[daves87rs]

Get a newer car for her, and keep it ru' around until it finally sends it to the scrap yard...try to get those few last bucks out of it...

 

[Yup]

This car I might be leaning towards dump but more for annoyance sake than financial. Financially, you're almost always better repairing. $3k in repairs in a year or $400/month for car payments? You do the math. I really want a new car, have the P0420 popping up, but reset it and keep driving until it comes back, then reset it again. I just put about. $1900 for struts and other brakes and stuff into it. Had I said, "oh that's too much" I'd be $2800 into car payments so far. As it is, I'm only $1900 in and, hopefully, will only need basics for another year. New or used will get you from point A to B. Both will cost money. Current car almost always cheaper. Keep driving it and put $500/month away like a car payment and use for bigger down payment in a few months.

 

[Nick1994]

Repairing a used car is almost always cheaper than buying a new car.

The thing is, you're in the rust belt, and repairing an older car doesn't keep it going for that much longer, because in the end the car is going to not be able to be driven anymore.

Where I live, I could have my Camry for 50 years and 1,000,000 miles. Aside from dents and scratches from use and parking lots, it will still have absolutely no rust.

In the rust belt, I'd rather pay $300 a month on a car payment on a nice newer car than $300 keeping an old rusty beater going.

 

[Gasbuggy]

I'm not afraid of miles or repairs, but I would sell now because it's your last chance to walk away without getting beat down by repairs. You're looking at alot of potential failures now. The car is in it's last sweet spot to sell, about 10 years old, under 200k, just passed inspection. End on a high note. Keeping a car too long sucks sometimes.

 

[dlundblad]

"3k OCI's with conventional" Am I reading this right? Dont you think you should step it up to synthetic?

It all depends on what you what. Compared to the pricier repairs, the ones listed in your original thread dont seem too bad IMO. Looks like something you could take your time at and complete in a few weekends if that. Not sure what'd I'd do with the turbo though if it isnt causing any issues yet.

The minimal rust would make me want to keep it too.

 

[Olas]

You're considering dumping the car at nearly 200,000 miles for mostly general maintenance stuff like brake parts and suspension parts? If something had lasted that well with such minimal work I'd keep it.
A few hundred in parts is a lot easier an a few grand on a new car and the associated paperwork headaches - plus you know the car and it's history, where any used car is a gamble, and the security of a factory warranty is a big expense.

Only replace it when repair costs exceed replacement cost.

 

[Andrew1972]

The car I have figured out the last 3 years has run $200/month in repairs/maintenance whatever. Mainly due to $2800 burned valve at 167k but the fix included all sorts of bits and parts including an upcoming 210k major service/timing belt etc.

Prior to this the car was relatively trouble free and cake walk.

The main issue I see now is I have hit spending $1000 into 2016 with more stuff on horizon(cat/exhaust/struts/full rear brakes).

 

[camrydriver111]

If you live in the rust belt, and you don't do your own work on the car I would say dump it.

 

[pandus13]

Originally Posted By: madRiver
The car I have figured out the last 3 years has run $200/month in repairs/maintenance whatever. Mainly due to $2800 burned valve at 167k but the fix included all sorts of bits and parts including an upcoming 210k major service/timing belt etc.

Prior to this the car was relatively trouble free and cake walk.

The main issue I see now is I have hit spending $1000 into 2016 with more stuff on horizon(cat/exhaust/struts/full rear brakes).



ok, so for the version of replacing:
-acura tsx wagon (already mentioned)
-mazda5 with a stick (rust resistance in your area?- and i have one)
-mazda6 wagon? (old?)
-volvo wagon T5 (old?) but probably not rusty; user Astro14 has one
-sportwagon (do you have a good VW mechanic?)
-cadillac sts (i hope, if not correct me) wagon
-dodge magnum (old?)
-2005-2007 ford focus wagon? (and drop a cobra in it: sorry could not help it)

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: madRiver
The main issue I see now is I have hit spending $1000 into 2016 with more stuff on horizon(cat/exhaust/struts/full rear brakes).



Yeah, but you passed inspection. You can ignore that stuff for the rest of the year. Do a cheapo pad slap if they are making noise, sell in the fall as "AWD and turbo!". That $1k will then have "paid" for itself.

*

Have you added up the prices of the expected repairs, added in any common but not yet done repairs, so as to get a fair estimate of what the car would cost over the next 2-3 years?

 

[Doog]

This is why I trade in at 200k maximum. I have found that you get the lowest cost per mile up until you go past 180k. Then you start getting into expensive repairs. So, I won't keep a car past 200k. But I am talking trading in a car with the factory brake rotors and struts at 180k> which I have done several times now.

 

[surfstar]

You can get into a new Golf Sportwagen for around $18k. Way better deal than a used TSX wagon. Perfect timing to need a new wagon, as VW is hurting and dealing...

 

[Andrew1972]

Originally Posted By: surfstar
You can get into a new Golf Sportwagen for around $18k. Way better deal than a used TSX wagon. Perfect timing to need a new wagon, as VW is hurting and dealing...


My wife liked it but does not trust VW much and stupidly they omitted a key feature she loves in hers for winter, previously standard heated seats in base model. Heated seats sounds stupid but she keeps cars a long time and won't go back.

 

[supton]

I liked the heated seats in my VW. They were leather seats, and wore very well (11 years, 314k, no rips, stains, etc). But the leather was cold in winter, so the heat was nice.

It was also nice to hop into the car after a long hike and turn up the seat heater--the warmth felt good on the back.