Habitual troller speaks

[john757]

I visit this site occasionally since I consider it the premium oil site on the web. I have a 94 Bronco and a 06 PSD 6liter.
I usually run Mobil one 5w40 diesel oil in both vehicles. This winter I got lazy and have run M1 15w50 in the 5.8 Bronco. I let it warm up on cold days and notice no difference in the sound of the engine. I've had this truck for over 21 years now and have only used M1 oils, and from 5w30 to 15w50. No leaks, no tappet noise, nor lower end sound. The meter just turned over 353k. The only part changed internally on the engine was the timing chain at 175k. I suppose the point I'm making is, it really doesn't matter (at least in my opinion) what weight oil you use, as long as it's a good oil.

 

[fsdork]

One piece of anecdotal evidence doesn't make that statement true.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: john757
I suppose the point I'm making is, it really doesn't matter (at least in my opinion) what weight oil you use, as long as it's a good oil.


Try that in some parts of Canada during winter and report back.

 

[bullwinkle]

Assuming your Bronco is a Windsor 302 or 351? That is a great engine, and using M1 is even better. Bet the inside looks good too-there are many fleets that use 15W40 out of the drum in everything & get 300K or better, with 5W40 you're ahead of the game.

 

[racin4ds]

Many people have done this, myself included. Vehicles rarely care what grade oil you run as long as you change it at decent interval. Too many on this site get caught up in "anal retentive" side of things and forget that mostly, oil is oil!

I run 5W20, 5W30, 20w50, 15w40, 0w40 in any of my vehicles and all of them are well over 100k miles and run like new. Heck I just defied all BITOG laws of physics and put 10W30 HDEO in my Honda CR-V and it started up nice and quiet even on these very cold WV mornings!

 

[69GTX]

Good piece of evidence. I'm sure those living in similar or warmer environments will find it helpful.

 

[turtlevette]

Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Too many on this site get caught up in "anal retentive" side of things and forget that mostly, oil is oil!

Some of us here are engineers and scientists and think its interesting to study the subject. We want to put the best oil in our engines to preserve compression and possibly prevent a failure under extreme conditions. Some of us track our rides. Things happen. Engines overheat, over rev, have loss of pressure.

Its satisfying to think that you may have saved your engine by spending 10 bucks more on oil. Heck, that's just 2 beers...or whatever. Everyone wastes some money on something. Ive never done any drugs of any kind. I've saved a butload of money just by being a square.

 

[CT8]

The most important thing is will the oil pump at starting .

 

[aquariuscsm]

From what I've learned from Shannow,the oil pump is (I think he called it) a positive displacement pump? Therefore anytime it's moving,it's pumping.

 

[Olas]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
From what I've learned from Shannow,the oil pump is (I think he called it) a positive displacement pump? Therefore anytime it's moving,it's pumping.


And it moves the same volume on every rotation. So if the ADBV is working the oil feed lines should be full and as soon as the starter spins oil is delivered to the bearing.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Many people have done this, myself included. Vehicles rarely care what grade oil you run as long as you change it at decent interval. Too many on this site get caught up in "anal retentive" side of things and forget that mostly, oil is oil!

I run 5W20, 5W30, 20w50, 15w40, 0w40 in any of my vehicles and all of them are well over 100k miles and run like new. Heck I just defied all BITOG laws of physics and put 10W30 HDEO in my Honda CR-V and it started up nice and quiet even on these very cold WV mornings!

Yeah, and I pointed out that -8F is not very cold.

 

[4wheeldog]

Originally Posted By: Olas
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
From what I've learned from Shannow,the oil pump is (I think he called it) a positive displacement pump? Therefore anytime it's moving,it's pumping.


And it moves the same volume on every rotation. So if the ADBV is working the oil feed lines should be full and as soon as the starter spins oil is delivered to the bearing.


The ability of the oil to flow is still important, once it has fulfilled its primary requirement. If an oil is too thick to flow by gravity, at a given temperature, it might not get back to the sump in time to make another trip. Most of the oil being stuck up in the top of the engine is a problem. Just sayin'.

 

[BrocLuno]

5W and 15W are not thick oils... For many decades we used straight 30W and they pumped just fine cold (Canadians may have gone a tad thinner ...).

It's easier on the cam and dizzy gear to turn the pump with thinner oil. And that could save a bit of wear... But this is not a big deal with what the OP is bringing to the discussion...

Straight 50W, well that might be a different story

 

[andyd]

I'd be leery of using the 15w40 if temps get into the single numbers F. It is a good way to spin a main bearing.I had that flashing through my mind when I cranked my 325K mile 528e loaded with dino 10w40 at 14 below. Other than that, I prefer thicker oil to a thinner oil. I don't drive enough to worry too much about getting the most MPG.

 

[Rolla07]

Im sure any oil will do just fine but this site is about people who want the most optimal oil for their siuation/circumstance/vehicle/driving style/location. Nobody claims that thick will cause your engine a challenge of any sort. If by using a lighter oil I saved one of one millionth percent of wear it makes us happy. Doesnt mean our engines will last longer but we take pride in finding the optimal product for us. Otherwise why are any of you on this site if your mentality is..any oil is fine?

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Olas
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
From what I've learned from Shannow,the oil pump is (I think he called it) a positive displacement pump? Therefore anytime it's moving,it's pumping.


And it moves the same volume on every rotation. So if the ADBV is working the oil feed lines should be full and as soon as the starter spins oil is delivered to the bearing.


Oil pressure will be there at start, but not always the oil flow to the top end of the engine in extreme cold temps using thicker oil. Here is a video showing this, however this has been posted before.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWiQyR7PWII

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
5W and 15W are not thick oils... For many decades we used straight 30W and they pumped just fine cold (Canadians may have gone a tad thinner ...).

It's easier on the cam and dizzy gear to turn the pump with thinner oil. And that could save a bit of wear... But this is not a big deal with what the OP is bringing to the discussion...

Straight 50W, well that might be a different story

I think you mean SAE30 and SAE50, there are no 30W or 50W designations

The chart tops out at 25W for the "Winter" rating.

 

[turtlevette]

People here get hung up on the pump output. Yea it's positive displacement output. But what about the input. It's just suction. If you draw more than 14.7 psi vacuum on the inlet side of the pump, you know what's gonna happen? It's going to create a void and you're sucking air.

Ever suck jello thru a straw? I don't get why you people don't understand this. Quit listening to what people say and think for yourself. Or listen then think. Don't blindly accept any explanation. Think and ask questions.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
People here get hung up on the pump output. Yea it's positive displacement output. But what about the input. It's just suction. If you draw more than 14.7 psi vacuum on the inlet side of the pump, you know what's gonna happen? It's going to create a void and you're sucking air.

Ever suck jello thru a straw? I don't get why you people don't understand this. Quit listening to what people say and think for yourself. Or listen then think. Don't blindly accept any explanation. Think and ask questions.





That's a good point Turtle, and that's the reason for the MRV specification for the W-designation.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
People here get hung up on the pump output. Yea it's positive displacement output. But what about the input. It's just suction. If you draw more than 14.7 psi vacuum on the inlet side of the pump, you know what's gonna happen? It's going to create a void and you're sucking air.

Ever suck jello thru a straw? I don't get why you people don't understand this. Quit listening to what people say and think for yourself. Or listen then think. Don't blindly accept any explanation. Think and ask questions.


In the parlance, there are two failure modes that occur.

First is where the oil can't flow through the straw, and the column of oil is"pulled apart", like trying to suck an overly thick thick shake.

Second is where the oil can't fall into the pick-up quick enough to meet the pump's demands.

Both of those issues are why there are (as per OVERKILL) MRV specifications at certain, cold temperatures.

But step away from those -35, -30, -25C test temperatures, up to say freezing, and these differences simply don't exist...all of the oils will flow to the pickup and up the tube just fine, and the pump will shift the same every rotation...as I keep saying.

The only difference in "flow" between different "W" grades is at the extremes of their "pumpability"...period.