2013 Toyota Camry oil filter leaking

[garlicbreadman]

Hi All

The car has had its first 2 years of oil changes done at toyota(free)

Those nuts at toyota tightened the filter so hard that i had to use a breaker bar. Btw, my 6" 3/8 extension twisted/deformed when taking it off!

Along with the filter element, I changed only the big o ring gasket this time, put the filter back on and torqued it to 19ft pds(called for 25nM)

There is an apparent leak as the oil filter housing is coated in oil. This is the first leak from an oil filter in my 8 years of maintaining cars.

Anyone have any advice on what could be leaking or wrong? I think those nuts tightened it so tight that the housing thread may not be sealing well anymore. Hope i dont have to buy a new oil filter housing.

 

[oilmutt]

Remove and check the location of the o-ring gasket,sometimes they move during installation.

 

[Stewie]

There a kits sold for checking oil leaks.

I say check the drain plug first and change the oil filter.

IMO they should be doing it as they fked up

 

[bvance554]

You said you changed only the big O ring gasket this time. Is there more than one? Either way, The O rings are the most likely cause.

 

[Traction]

Like mentioned already. The O-ring, according the to instructions on the OEM filter box, shows where the O-ring should locate, and how it can be installed wrong, and leak.
It can easily be installed wrong, by putting it slightly below the shallow groove it is supposed to be in.
I do not like the new cartridge filter housing at all! The old spin on filter was so much better, and I didn't have to buy another tool.

 

[Mr Nice]

Dang, I hate the design of Toyota filter. What's wrong with the older style ?

Avoid free oil changes at dealership.

 

[JustinH]

If the 2013 is like the 2010, then I will give some advise.

The oil filter cartridge is ALWAYS tight, even if you just tighten it up yourself to factory specs.

You need a tool to get it off every time.

There are 2 O-Rings. One goes on the cartridge, one goes on the little cap lid on the cartridge.

I would have a new filter ready to go, then replace the filter, both O-Rings

Most aftermarket filters include a little tool that depresses the spring inside the cartridge so that you can drain the oil out of the cartridge and not spray it all over yourself.

Another tip is that both O-rings need to be lubed with motor oil before you put them on. If you put them on dry, they will creep up out of position and they will leak.

Took me about 2 times to get it down, but I use the tool from amazon hooked to a 1/2 inch socket, hooked to a long breaker bar to remove the cartridge.

I then torque it back on.

 

[Chris Meutsch]

Originally Posted By: JustinH
If the 2013 is like the 2010, then I will give some advise.

The oil filter cartridge is ALWAYS tight, even if you just tighten it up yourself to factory specs.

You need a tool to get it off every time.

There are 2 O-Rings. One goes on the cartridge, one goes on the little cap lid on the cartridge.

I would have a new filter ready to go, then replace the filter, both O-Rings

Most aftermarket filters include a little tool that depresses the spring inside the cartridge so that you can drain the oil out of the cartridge and not spray it all over yourself.

Another tip is that both O-rings need to be lubed with motor oil before you put them on. If you put them on dry, they will creep up out of position and they will leak.

Took me about 2 times to get it down, but I use the tool from amazon hooked to a 1/2 inch socket, hooked to a long breaker bar to remove the cartridge.

I then torque it back on.


What a hassle. I changed the oil on my MIL's 2004 MB C320 one time and vowed never again. While the filter is right on top, it's a cartridge and it comes with 5 new o-rings. Plus there were 17 bolts holding the belly pan in that covers up the drain bolt.

 

[Traction]

The only reason I can think of why Toyota went away from a simple spin on filter, was to force more people back to the dealer for a oil change. It had to cost a lot more to design, and manufacture, and the filter isn't cheaper either.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: Traction
The only reason I can think of why Toyota went away from a simple spin on filter, was to force more people back to the dealer for a oil change. It had to cost a lot more to design, and manufacture, and the filter isn't cheaper either.

The change to a cartridge-type filter was prompted by pressure from environmental activists: Cartridge-type filters drain more completely than spin-on types.

In theory, it means less oil going into the garbage. In practice, it seems to be working more like those EPA-compliant, vapor-trapping gas cans that spill all over the place...

 

[cptbarkey]

I do not bother with the small drain, in fact i may RTV it up on both my cars at the next oil change because it is just another point of failure that shouldnt exist.

 

[Doog]

Remove the canister and clean it all off with brake cleaner. Then look for any scratches in the area where the oring goes. If there are any deformations in the threads or scratches in the housing you need a new housing and probably a new base it screws into. (one cross threading and it's toast)

One question: why didn't you take the leaking canister back to the dealer and demand they repair or replace it?

another comment: get an assenmacher oil filter tool from amazon for $20 and life will be easy. Also, you do NOT need to use a torque wrench on the canister. Just snug it and you are done. The orings seal the whole thing so they need to be clean and oiled before install.

I only use the big one as I never take the small cap off anymore. Just loosen the whole assembly and dump it into the pan. Make sure you wipe out the housing with a paper towel and the canister so both are clean. Then thread in by hand until you feel the oring make contact (some light resistance) then finish with the assenmacher tool and ratchet.

here is the tool: http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specia...macher+oil+tool

 

[Doog]

Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
I do not bother with the small drain, in fact i may RTV it up on both my cars at the next oil change because it is just another point of failure that shouldnt exist.



Not needed. Just clean it and crank a new oring in there and leave it. Mine all go 200k.

 

[Doog]

This thread is yet ONE more reason I do my own oil changes.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
I do not bother with the small drain, in fact i may RTV it up on both my cars at the next oil change because it is just another point of failure that shouldnt exist.



Not needed. Just clean it and crank a new oring in there and leave it. Mine all go 200k.


+1. I have no idea if mine were touched, as I didn't start doing oil changes until 60k/80k on them, but I have no plans to do so.

What might be nice is to remove, then locktite the drain into place. Then you can just shove an extension in to remove the works. I didn't do that on my Tundra, but someone overtightened the drain and now it just spins off the whole works in this fashion--works quite well IMO.

*

I assumed the change to this setup was to reduce waste. No metal being thrown out, just a paper insert.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
What a hassle. I changed the oil on my MIL's 2004 MB C320 one time and vowed never again. While the filter is right on top, it's a cartridge and it comes with 5 new o-rings. Plus there were 17 bolts holding the belly pan in that covers up the drain bolt.

Changing cartridge oil filter of a Mercedes engine is pretty easy, the only hassle is changing 4-5 o-rings. I actually didn't change any o-ring every filter change, only every second one. The advantage is you can see the filter condition without cutting.

Changing oil in a Mercedes engine is much easier, cleaner and faster with a fluid extractor. The dipstick is designed to use a fluid extractor, it can siphon more oil from the sump then drain. Also, don't need to mess around with the splash guard.

I had been doing oil change for my E430 since 2004(after 4 free oil changes at dealer), I think it is the best/easiest oil change.

 

[garlicbreadman]

Originally Posted By: JustinH
If the 2013 is like the 2010, then I will give some advise.

The oil filter cartridge is ALWAYS tight, even if you just tighten it up yourself to factory specs.

You need a tool to get it off every time.

There are 2 O-Rings. One goes on the cartridge, one goes on the little cap lid on the cartridge.

I would have a new filter ready to go, then replace the filter, both O-Rings

Most aftermarket filters include a little tool that depresses the spring inside the cartridge so that you can drain the oil out of the cartridge and not spray it all over yourself.

Another tip is that both O-rings need to be lubed with motor oil before you put them on. If you put them on dry, they will creep up out of position and they will leak.

Took me about 2 times to get it down, but I use the tool from amazon hooked to a 1/2 inch socket, hooked to a long breaker bar to remove the cartridge.

I then torque it back on.


Thanks, i may just have to re-install new gaskets and see if the leak continues.

Yes, i hate these cartridge type filters as much as the next person!!

Originally Posted By: Doog
Remove the canister and clean it all off with brake cleaner. Then look for any scratches in the area where the oring goes. If there are any deformations in the threads or scratches in the housing you need a new housing and probably a new base it screws into. (one cross threading and it's toast)

One question: why didn't you take the leaking canister back to the dealer and demand they repair or replace it?

another comment: get an assenmacher oil filter tool from amazon for $20 and life will be easy. Also, you do NOT need to use a torque wrench on the canister. Just snug it and you are done. The orings seal the whole thing so they need to be clean and oiled before install.

I only use the big one as I never take the small cap off anymore. Just loosen the whole assembly and dump it into the pan. Make sure you wipe out the housing with a paper towel and the canister so both are clean. Then thread in by hand until you feel the oring make contact (some light resistance) then finish with the assenmacher tool and ratchet.

here is the tool: http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specia...macher+oil+tool


It wasn't leaking before i changed the oil. I started leaking after because i think they tightened it so tight that the housing isnt sealing well anymore.

Thanks for your advice!

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

I found this style of tool to work better than the one linked above (I'm not sure whether this fits your particular engine--it's the design I'm talking about.): Cap Wrench with Slots

The slots engage with the tabs on the filter cap. In my application, that gives more leverage and makes the tool less likely to get stuck on the cap. I ordered an extra cap for my 1.8 after the first few oil changes. Loosening it takes so much effort and bad language that I expect it to crack someday.

I don't have anything to offer regarding the leak, but I remember another post about this within the last six months or so.

 

[Traction]

Originally Posted By: Rhymingmechanic
I found this style of tool to work better than the one linked above (I'm not sure whether this fits your particular engine--it's the design I'm talking about.): Cap Wrench with Slots

The slots engage with the tabs on the filter cap. In my application, that gives more leverage and makes the tool less likely to get stuck on the cap. I ordered an extra cap for my 1.8 after the first few oil changes. Loosening it takes so much effort and bad language that I expect it to crack someday.

I don't have anything to offer regarding the leak, but I remember another post about this within the last six months or so.

I have the same cap wrench. It is definitely strong enough. When I changed my filter on my 13 Camry, that the dealer had worked on before, I thought for sure something was going to break, having to use a lot of force with a 1/2 breaker bar to get it off. I marked the housing and the cap with a marker before I took it off, and when I reinstalled it as tight as I thought it should be, I was over a 1/2 inch short from where they had it. Now I just use a index mark, and simply tighten it back to the same point every time. The wrench still sticks to the cap, but I just give a small whack in the other direction, and it comes off. The filter cap is probably messed up a little from previous over torqueing. Any other cheaper/weaker tool would not have worked on mine for sure. I'm sure plenty of filter caps have been destroyed, trying to use the wrong tool.

 

[JustinH]

Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
I do not bother with the small drain, in fact i may RTV it up on both my cars at the next oil change because it is just another point of failure that shouldnt exist.



You are right. I am not sure the purpose of the second O ring on the toyota. I think the service tech pushes the plunger into it to drain the oil from the canister before actually opening the canister. May be a thing where the service techs don't get hot oil sprayed all over them.

Just opening the canister without touching the little O ring must dump oil everywhere and make a big mess. I use the little tool to release all the oil and I get no drips anywhere.

Total time is maybe 5 minutes to change the filter with all the O rings.