MoS2 spray to repair lost parkerizing?
- Thread starter 2cool
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I don't think it would stay. I think its more intended as a dry lube.
Use Any kind of commercial "rust converter"
2Cool: clarify what gun you have and exactly what the "lost bluing" amounts to. There are cold blue products that might
help, but nothing will restore worn bluing to point of looking new
again. The best cold blue I've ever used is Brownell's Oxpho-Blue.
If its a handgun, you can get a variety of refinishing coatings in a variety of colors, best done by professionals for about $100 or less.
help, but nothing will restore worn bluing to point of looking new
again. The best cold blue I've ever used is Brownell's Oxpho-Blue.
If its a handgun, you can get a variety of refinishing coatings in a variety of colors, best done by professionals for about $100 or less.
Parkerizing or bluing?
Another good touch up product is Vans Gun Blue. It will not work for large areas, but works good to cover up small spots.
I have even used it on a few parkerized guns where there was wear on high edges. It is not exact, but it looks better than bright steel.
I have even used it on a few parkerized guns where there was wear on high edges. It is not exact, but it looks better than bright steel.
Originally Posted By: 2cool
Has anyone got experience using MolyDisulfide spray as a repair for lost bluing? Some of the commercial sprays I've seen have up to 67% solids. Does it stick? Does it last?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-9-3-oz-B-laster-The-Dry-Lube-16-TDL/202532762
http://www.skygeek.com/everlube-perm-sil...98d-ppsgae.html
It sticks, but it won't last. Especially if the item receives a lot of handling. I've seen videos where guys refinish well worn G.I. magazines for AR-15's with this type of stuff. The problem is it doesn't last. It will wear off rather quickly. It is a lubricant not a refinishing product like Duracoat or similar Epoxy / Hardener type treatments. If you're trying to touch up worn bluing, you'll find better success using a cold blue product like these. I've used both, and the G96 Crème provides a deep, rich blue / black finish. The Brownell's product works well, but is not so glossy.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-...1072.aspx?dym=y
http://www.amazon.com/G96-1064-Gun-Bluing-Creme/dp/B0001AV6CK
Has anyone got experience using MolyDisulfide spray as a repair for lost bluing? Some of the commercial sprays I've seen have up to 67% solids. Does it stick? Does it last?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-9-3-oz-B-laster-The-Dry-Lube-16-TDL/202532762
http://www.skygeek.com/everlube-perm-sil...98d-ppsgae.html
It sticks, but it won't last. Especially if the item receives a lot of handling. I've seen videos where guys refinish well worn G.I. magazines for AR-15's with this type of stuff. The problem is it doesn't last. It will wear off rather quickly. It is a lubricant not a refinishing product like Duracoat or similar Epoxy / Hardener type treatments. If you're trying to touch up worn bluing, you'll find better success using a cold blue product like these. I've used both, and the G96 Crème provides a deep, rich blue / black finish. The Brownell's product works well, but is not so glossy.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-...1072.aspx?dym=y
http://www.amazon.com/G96-1064-Gun-Bluing-Creme/dp/B0001AV6CK
I have several pair of Knipex wire/bolt cutters that I keep in my boat for cutting the big treble hooks out of fish. They are nice and expensive cutters, but they get wet in the boat, and stored in a wet environment, so they inevitably begin to rust a bit.
I have the spray MoS2 from Kano Labs and have used it on multiple occasions to "coat" areas that I've cleaned rust off it.
It's worked GREAT.
Yes, it sticks VERY, VERY well. Like paint.
I have the spray MoS2 from Kano Labs and have used it on multiple occasions to "coat" areas that I've cleaned rust off it.
It's worked GREAT.
Yes, it sticks VERY, VERY well. Like paint.
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I've used the MoS spray to cover finish damage that wasn't bad enough to warrant a complete refinishing.
It wears ok, but it's not as durable as Ceracoat or Duracoat. I've seen strong solvent remove strip it.
BSW
It wears ok, but it's not as durable as Ceracoat or Duracoat. I've seen strong solvent remove strip it.
BSW
I remembered that I used a spray on gray material to coat the upper receiver of M16's that had the black worn off. I was looking at a Remington Model 8 that had most of bluing worn off, and so I thought it might be a good compromise until I figured out what I want to do with it.
Originally Posted By: 2cool
I remembered that I used a spray on gray material to coat the upper receiver of M16's that had the black worn off. I was looking at a Remington Model 8 that had most of bluing worn off, and so I thought it might be a good compromise until I figured out what I want to do with it.
Brownells Aluma Hyde is what I use if I have to do a spray on coating. I did it for a few cheap old 22 bolt guns that were well worn in terms of finish and it holds up very well. Tough stuff for a rattle can.
I remembered that I used a spray on gray material to coat the upper receiver of M16's that had the black worn off. I was looking at a Remington Model 8 that had most of bluing worn off, and so I thought it might be a good compromise until I figured out what I want to do with it.
Brownells Aluma Hyde is what I use if I have to do a spray on coating. I did it for a few cheap old 22 bolt guns that were well worn in terms of finish and it holds up very well. Tough stuff for a rattle can.
Originally Posted By: 2cool
Thanks Robenstein! Sounds like the ticket. Now I just need to get a Model 8 to worry about.
They are around. I actually have one in in 35 Remington. Picked it up at a garage sale of all places for 100 bucks. Most of the bluing on mine has turned to patina. They are out there. But if you do get one, I recommend getting one in the same chambering as mine. Otherwise you would have a hard time getting ammo for it.
Thanks Robenstein! Sounds like the ticket. Now I just need to get a Model 8 to worry about.
They are around. I actually have one in in 35 Remington. Picked it up at a garage sale of all places for 100 bucks. Most of the bluing on mine has turned to patina. They are out there. But if you do get one, I recommend getting one in the same chambering as mine. Otherwise you would have a hard time getting ammo for it.
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