So the heat is coming out of the vents on my Crown Vic & won't turn off. Ugh Mechanic tells me it's the Blend Door Actuator on my Crown Vic that is buried in the dash. Ugh This is going to be a $7-8 Hundred Dollar outing . [censored]
Changing Blend Door Actuator on Crown Vic
- Thread starter RISUPERCREWMAN
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Yes. The dash needs to come out unfortunately.
This is a friends 2010 that I had to swap the whole HVAC assembly because his had a broken door. I had to pull a dash out of a '07 Grand Marq to get him another one then R&R his to install the replacement.
After doing a couple, I don't actually find it that difficult to pull the dash. I would help you do it if you were not on the other side of the country.
This is a friends 2010 that I had to swap the whole HVAC assembly because his had a broken door. I had to pull a dash out of a '07 Grand Marq to get him another one then R&R his to install the replacement.
After doing a couple, I don't actually find it that difficult to pull the dash. I would help you do it if you were not on the other side of the country.
I remember these when I worked at the dealer. Usually, it takes about a day for some tech to replace these, if the tech is just coasting along.
I'm usually not in favor of government interfering with big business, but if there was a mandated lifetime warranty on a part like this, I guarantee it would be a five minute fix.
I'm usually not in favor of government interfering with big business, but if there was a mandated lifetime warranty on a part like this, I guarantee it would be a five minute fix.
Originally Posted By: Kruse
I remember these when I worked at the dealer. Usually, it takes about a day for some tech to replace these, if the tech is just coasting along.
I'm usually not in favor of government interfering with big business, but if there was a mandated lifetime warranty on a part like this, I guarantee it would be a five minute fix.
Coming from someone who has tackled this as well, I couldn't agree more. This is one the jobs I hate, hate and HATE on these cars - right up there with leaking valve cover gaskets.
I remember these when I worked at the dealer. Usually, it takes about a day for some tech to replace these, if the tech is just coasting along.
I'm usually not in favor of government interfering with big business, but if there was a mandated lifetime warranty on a part like this, I guarantee it would be a five minute fix.
Coming from someone who has tackled this as well, I couldn't agree more. This is one the jobs I hate, hate and HATE on these cars - right up there with leaking valve cover gaskets.
This job pays 2 hours under warranty and can be done in that amount of time. Leave the steering column in the dash, just unhook it at the firewall. Dash doesn't have to come out of the vehicle, pull it back far enough to access the actuator.
Get a good manual and have at it, I find the factory manual to be the best.
Get a good manual and have at it, I find the factory manual to be the best.
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Originally Posted By: Kruse
I remember these when I worked at the dealer. Usually, it takes about a day for some tech to replace these, if the tech is just coasting along.
I'm usually not in favor of government interfering with big business, but if there was a mandated lifetime warranty on a part like this, I guarantee it would be a five minute fix.
Coming from someone who has tackled this as well, I couldn't agree more. This is one the jobs I hate, hate and HATE on these cars - right up there with leaking valve cover gaskets.
I don't think its that bad. Like roadking said it doesn't have to come completely out to do it. I only had to pull the dash in the '10 I worked on because I had to pull the whole HVAC box out and replace it.
There are instructions floating around for doing it by going in through the passenger airbag opening, but Ive done that trick too and it took me longer and was harder than If I had just popped the steering shaft and pulled the dash off enough to get at it.
The driver side valve cover isn't too bad either. Its the passenger side that will make you hate it.
Originally Posted By: Kruse
I remember these when I worked at the dealer. Usually, it takes about a day for some tech to replace these, if the tech is just coasting along.
I'm usually not in favor of government interfering with big business, but if there was a mandated lifetime warranty on a part like this, I guarantee it would be a five minute fix.
Coming from someone who has tackled this as well, I couldn't agree more. This is one the jobs I hate, hate and HATE on these cars - right up there with leaking valve cover gaskets.
I don't think its that bad. Like roadking said it doesn't have to come completely out to do it. I only had to pull the dash in the '10 I worked on because I had to pull the whole HVAC box out and replace it.
There are instructions floating around for doing it by going in through the passenger airbag opening, but Ive done that trick too and it took me longer and was harder than If I had just popped the steering shaft and pulled the dash off enough to get at it.
The driver side valve cover isn't too bad either. Its the passenger side that will make you hate it.
Does air come out when you turn it off? Is it hot or cold? Yes the blend door actuator is at the top of the box but that controls hot/cold.You a recirculation door actuator that controls air flow(is vent,defrost,floor. You are suppose to take the dash out to replace
Quick and dirty:
As above, pull the dash back enough to access the actuator. 3 bolts/screws and one connector. Remove the two screws that are easy to reach (comparatively speaking). Lift up on the actuator until the mount against the firewall on the actuator snaps. That front bolt/screw is the tough one buried against the insulation blanket. After the actuator is snapped off, loosen the remaining bolt enough to remove the broken tang. New actuator, clip the end of the front mount tang off so it slips under the remaining bolt. Reassemble.
Later models may be a little different, but look to be the same judging from the pictures. They are actually gravy to do in Crown Vics/Town Cars/Grand Marqs.
As above, pull the dash back enough to access the actuator. 3 bolts/screws and one connector. Remove the two screws that are easy to reach (comparatively speaking). Lift up on the actuator until the mount against the firewall on the actuator snaps. That front bolt/screw is the tough one buried against the insulation blanket. After the actuator is snapped off, loosen the remaining bolt enough to remove the broken tang. New actuator, clip the end of the front mount tang off so it slips under the remaining bolt. Reassemble.
Later models may be a little different, but look to be the same judging from the pictures. They are actually gravy to do in Crown Vics/Town Cars/Grand Marqs.
It's a Ford thing. The Lincoln Mark VIII's I owned were notorious for this.
Originally Posted By: punisher
Quick and dirty:
As above, pull the dash back enough to access the actuator. 3 bolts/screws and one connector. Remove the two screws that are easy to reach (comparatively speaking). Lift up on the actuator until the mount against the firewall on the actuator snaps. That front bolt/screw is the tough one buried against the insulation blanket. After the actuator is snapped off, loosen the remaining bolt enough to remove the broken tang. New actuator, clip the end of the front mount tang off so it slips under the remaining bolt. Reassemble.
Later models may be a little different, but look to be the same judging from the pictures. They are actually gravy to do in Crown Vics/Town Cars/Grand Marqs.
Ooooo. I never thought of snapping it off and notching the new one. I always just used a open end. It took awhile, but I could do it. Ill keep that in mind if I ever have the misfortune of doing another one.
Quick and dirty:
As above, pull the dash back enough to access the actuator. 3 bolts/screws and one connector. Remove the two screws that are easy to reach (comparatively speaking). Lift up on the actuator until the mount against the firewall on the actuator snaps. That front bolt/screw is the tough one buried against the insulation blanket. After the actuator is snapped off, loosen the remaining bolt enough to remove the broken tang. New actuator, clip the end of the front mount tang off so it slips under the remaining bolt. Reassemble.
Later models may be a little different, but look to be the same judging from the pictures. They are actually gravy to do in Crown Vics/Town Cars/Grand Marqs.
Ooooo. I never thought of snapping it off and notching the new one. I always just used a open end. It took awhile, but I could do it. Ill keep that in mind if I ever have the misfortune of doing another one.
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