Hastings LF115. '01 Dodge G/C Updated Valve Train

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If you were following my other threads on my sludged 3.3L... Here's an update on my '01 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L. 264,064KM. Changed the filter at 263,282. Put this Hastings on and replaced oil and filter at 263,961. I buy these Hastings for $4 + eco fee.

Previous Thread - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3914211/1

Was running about 4Qts PYB + 1Qt PP. Both 5W30. About 1100KM on this fill. About 680KM on this filter.
Put about 4 ounces of Seafoam and idled for 10 minutes before dumping the oil.
Replaced with 5Qts PYB 5W30 + 350ML MMO, Hastings LF115. Planning for 1000KM to 1500KM this OCI.


Valve Train, Yes. I know its ugly. Taken at 263,961KM. ~164K Miles. But it's improving. So I'm happy.
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Filter Overview. Built in Bypass Valve.
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Inside Can, its not much but scroll down. I filtered everything in the canister with a shop towel.
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Filter Seam, kind of ugly. But, it does the job.
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Filter Media
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Sludge Bits #1
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Sludge Bits #2 There is a nickle there to represent how much there actually is.
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What a mess- good luck.
I grabbed a few cases of Hastings from Rock auto for $1 each. lost only a few to dented cans ;( LF240's
 
Slow and steady like you are doing is the way I would do it too. Thanks for the cut open Hastings. I have some Hastings LF393 on order, and will cut a new one open to have a look. Looks like Baldwin/Hastings are still using that big heavy duty spring. Looks more robust than a Wix coil spring.
 
If it sounds like a rock tumbler, then that engine is toast. if it sounds fine, then drive along your merry way, good luck.
 
What I want to know is how on earth a 3.3 GOT that way in the first place? The previous owner must have been a master of neglect, I've NEVER seen a pushrod Chrysler engine do that, other than a 5.2/5.9 Magnum with a neglected blown lower intake plenum gasket.

Keep on keeping on is what I'd do. Anything faster and you risk breaking the junk loose too fast. As it is, the oil pump is taking a beating moving all that grit from the pan up to the filter. I'd be surprised if it comes out of this without low oil pressure at idle.

The other thing you could consider is pulling the valve covers again, opening the drain plug, and brushing the valvetrain down with Varsol or Kerosene, and then "rinsing" any loose bits through the oil returns and into the pan and out the drain plug. then rinse with a quart of cheap oil, reinstall covers, refill, and go. I did that on an aforementioned 5.2 with a long-neglected blown intake plenum, and unbelievably it lived on another 80k (to a total of over 200,000) miles and was still running when sold.
 
I wouldn't recommend that. I tried that with a Taurus, and it turned out that it's oil drain was higher than the bottom of the sump. Sludge flakes pooled in the pan, and would not come out of the pan no matter what was poured into the engine.

If you're going to manually go after the sludge, get that oil pan off.
 
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
If it sounds like a rock tumbler, then that engine is toast. if it sounds fine, then drive along your merry way, good luck.


It sounds fine to me. Even when I step on it, it sounds normal.

I'm going to tackle the sludge slowly. The sludge is soft now, compared to the older photo so everything should be melting down slowly.

Next OCI, I think I'm going to use Delo 400 15W40 + Rislone Concentrate. I heard on here magnesium is really good at getting under the sludge. Delo has like 500PPM + of magnesium according to the PQIA.
 
I would not worry about it.

The engine has over 260K and was neglected. Just keep changing the oil regularly and drive it until it drops.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Just a thought but I might give this a try for $10:

http://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-95030-Eng...ngine+oil+flush

LG is well regarded on here. Simple to use, with a warm engine, pour in prior to an oil change, idle for 10 mins, and do the normal oil change procedure.


I'm from Canada, I'll try asking if the place I get my Lubegard from can get me any.
 
Hastings says louvered center tube has 40% flow area compared to 15% for holes. Not sure how they can make that exact claim because holes vary, but they promote louvers as giving more flow.
 
I used to substitute a couple quarts for ATF when I was trying to de-sludge some old 2.2/2.5 K-cars. Worked pretty well(got rid of lots of [censored] between the time I did a valve cover gasket around 90k initially discovering the sludge when i bought it, and a head gasket at 130k), admittedly I haven't seen what BITOG's take on this is.


Edit: just did. Ha don't open that can of worms. Apparently just about anything would have worked.
 
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Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Hastings says louvered center tube has 40% flow area compared to 15% for holes. Not sure how they can make that exact claim because holes vary, but they promote louvers as giving more flow.


Probably just based on the total area difference per the design on paper.
 
I wonder what the assembled ADBV, when on the baseplate and element together, look like? It doesn't look like there would be much space for oil flow with the baseplate shape and the short neck on the element.
 
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
I wonder what the assembled ADBV, when on the baseplate and element together, look like? It doesn't look like there would be much space for oil flow with the baseplate shape and the short neck on the element.


I measured that distance you are talking about on a LF393 which has the short neck too. It was at least 3/16 of an inch gap for oil to flow into the filter once the ADBV opens.
 
Forgot to add. If you take a look at the inside of a Fram orange can, they do not have a neck. The gap is gauged by the raised ridge oil intake holes on the back side of the plate. It's hard to measure the Fram, but the gap is not much at all. This is my observation from looking at a PH3980 orange can that I have cut open.
 
Originally Posted By: BigD1
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
I wonder what the assembled ADBV, when on the baseplate and element together, look like? It doesn't look like there would be much space for oil flow with the baseplate shape and the short neck on the element.


I measured that distance you are talking about on a LF393 which has the short neck too. It was at least 3/16 of an inch gap for oil to flow into the filter once the ADBV opens.

Thanks for measuring, that's good to know, as I did have a filter from a company that had no gap at all, the filter had to move up against the coil spring. If that movement is much at all it unseals the adbv from the baseplate and the oil bypasses unfiltered. The Frams adbv sits inside the element hole, then lies over the convex baseplate. I think there will be a lot of flow with that system as the baseplate is raised up quite a lot on the inside.
 
It looks like the oil, additive and filter are doing their job nicely. The filter has plenty of remaining capacity. I presume the oil had alot of suspended junk in it. Thanks for the post.
 
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