I'd go with napa silver or carquest red- even though those weren't one of the options lol
basic filters Fram/Purolator/Wix
- Thread starter Jake777
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After seeing all the cut open filters on here, I won't buy a basic filter no more!
I gave up on fram years ago when it caused engine knock on startup on both of my t-birds, went to motorcraft/puro and never had an issue after that.
now i many use motorcraft or wix/napa and some purolators here and there.
now i many use motorcraft or wix/napa and some purolators here and there.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
I really like the proselect. I use lots of them on customers cars. I can get them for about $.75 more than an autolite which is a white fram.
I find the Proselect okay, but I don't like the nitrile combo bypass valve. I'm using one on a '01 Grand Caravan and I get start up noise every time. I have to pay $3.07 for a PS and I can get a Hastings for $4. I'll be using the hastings soon. So I'll see if I have any improvement.
I really like the proselect. I use lots of them on customers cars. I can get them for about $.75 more than an autolite which is a white fram.
I find the Proselect okay, but I don't like the nitrile combo bypass valve. I'm using one on a '01 Grand Caravan and I get start up noise every time. I have to pay $3.07 for a PS and I can get a Hastings for $4. I'll be using the hastings soon. So I'll see if I have any improvement.
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: Branson304
I can't get Wix in my area so I don't care about them. Of the options provided, I'd choose a Fram Extra every time. They get the job done perfectly fine, everybody just has an illogical phobia of "cardboard" end caps. I'd trust that "cardboard" over a Tearolator any day. If it wasn't for the tearing issues, which may be resolved now (???), the Classic wins. But as it stands now, Fram.
You're buying too much Framboy propaganda. Puro has just updated their filter line. Now all the Framboys can whine about is the paint.
I hope Purolator tearing issues are fixed, I really do. I'm not a "Framboy." I've regularly ran multiple brands of filters & I've settled on Motorcraft & Fram. I would use Purolators as well if it wasn't for the tearing issue. I can't really seem to find any info on filters built in 2015 to see if the tearing stopped...
Originally Posted By: Branson304
I can't get Wix in my area so I don't care about them. Of the options provided, I'd choose a Fram Extra every time. They get the job done perfectly fine, everybody just has an illogical phobia of "cardboard" end caps. I'd trust that "cardboard" over a Tearolator any day. If it wasn't for the tearing issues, which may be resolved now (???), the Classic wins. But as it stands now, Fram.
You're buying too much Framboy propaganda. Puro has just updated their filter line. Now all the Framboys can whine about is the paint.
I hope Purolator tearing issues are fixed, I really do. I'm not a "Framboy." I've regularly ran multiple brands of filters & I've settled on Motorcraft & Fram. I would use Purolators as well if it wasn't for the tearing issue. I can't really seem to find any info on filters built in 2015 to see if the tearing stopped...
For the Avalon. Toyota Genuine Parts 90915-YZZD1 Oil Filter or any 3614 filter.
I have owned Toyota's for 25 years. At least a dozen of them.
Ran whatever was cheap. Many I bought from garage /estate sales .
Running an old 90915-03001 in my 1.8 right now . Paid 50 cents each and they were still in the box.
Only bad one was a ST that leaked out of the box.
Every Toyota i have owned went between 150-350000 miles with no engine failures.Sold while still running.
I wouldn't worry what filter you run . You could probably cap it off and still be fine.
Just change the oil every 5000 miles and keep it full.
I have owned Toyota's for 25 years. At least a dozen of them.
Ran whatever was cheap. Many I bought from garage /estate sales .
Running an old 90915-03001 in my 1.8 right now . Paid 50 cents each and they were still in the box.
Only bad one was a ST that leaked out of the box.
Every Toyota i have owned went between 150-350000 miles with no engine failures.Sold while still running.
I wouldn't worry what filter you run . You could probably cap it off and still be fine.
Just change the oil every 5000 miles and keep it full.
Toyota filters hold up well. However, WIX will hold up just as well if not better as the media is likely a bit better. Fram will be "ok" and I would not trust Purolator to hold a pencil.
Considering how many Yotas make it to the high miles with just quick-lube jobbers, I am not that worried.
Considering how many Yotas make it to the high miles with just quick-lube jobbers, I am not that worried.
I wouldn't buy any of those 3 - I'd buy a Motorcraft. FL400s if it's in stock, or FL910s if a 400s isn't available.
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
I wouldn't buy any of those 3 - I'd buy a Motorcraft. FL400s if it's in stock, or FL910s if a 400s isn't available.
I agree. I have no reason to buy cheap filters that aren't of the greatest quality when I can pick up a Motorcraft for just 20 cents or so more. My vehicles would use the Fram PH2 or Motorcraft FL-820S. The PH2 is $3.77, FL-820S is $3.97. FL-820S is capable of 10,000 mile runs per Ford & they always look excellent when cut open & also have a silicone ADBV versus nitrile on the Fram. The only thing inferior about Motorcraft is 93% filtering effeciency vs Fram's 95%. Not enough difference to matter. Motorcraft is the best bang for your buck in the oil filter world.
I wouldn't buy any of those 3 - I'd buy a Motorcraft. FL400s if it's in stock, or FL910s if a 400s isn't available.
I agree. I have no reason to buy cheap filters that aren't of the greatest quality when I can pick up a Motorcraft for just 20 cents or so more. My vehicles would use the Fram PH2 or Motorcraft FL-820S. The PH2 is $3.77, FL-820S is $3.97. FL-820S is capable of 10,000 mile runs per Ford & they always look excellent when cut open & also have a silicone ADBV versus nitrile on the Fram. The only thing inferior about Motorcraft is 93% filtering effeciency vs Fram's 95%. Not enough difference to matter. Motorcraft is the best bang for your buck in the oil filter world.
Originally Posted By: Branson304
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
I wouldn't buy any of those 3 - I'd buy a Motorcraft. FL400s if it's in stock, or FL910s if a 400s isn't available.
I agree. I have no reason to buy cheap filters that aren't of the greatest quality when I can pick up a Motorcraft for just 20 cents or so more. My vehicles would use the Fram PH2 or Motorcraft FL-820S. The PH2 is $3.77, FL-820S is $3.97. FL-820S is capable of 10,000 mile runs per Ford & they always look excellent when cut open & also have a silicone ADBV versus nitrile on the Fram. The only thing inferior about Motorcraft is 93% filtering effeciency vs Fram's 95%. Not enough difference to matter. Motorcraft is the best bang for your buck in the oil filter world.
You do realize that FL-820S is made by Purolator, right?
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
I wouldn't buy any of those 3 - I'd buy a Motorcraft. FL400s if it's in stock, or FL910s if a 400s isn't available.
I agree. I have no reason to buy cheap filters that aren't of the greatest quality when I can pick up a Motorcraft for just 20 cents or so more. My vehicles would use the Fram PH2 or Motorcraft FL-820S. The PH2 is $3.77, FL-820S is $3.97. FL-820S is capable of 10,000 mile runs per Ford & they always look excellent when cut open & also have a silicone ADBV versus nitrile on the Fram. The only thing inferior about Motorcraft is 93% filtering effeciency vs Fram's 95%. Not enough difference to matter. Motorcraft is the best bang for your buck in the oil filter world.
You do realize that FL-820S is made by Purolator, right?
And that Wix tends to use the base end bypass where Ford uses that, too?
Originally Posted By: flatlandtacoma
Originally Posted By: Branson304
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
I wouldn't buy any of those 3 - I'd buy a Motorcraft. FL400s if it's in stock, or FL910s if a 400s isn't available.
I agree. I have no reason to buy cheap filters that aren't of the greatest quality when I can pick up a Motorcraft for just 20 cents or so more. My vehicles would use the Fram PH2 or Motorcraft FL-820S. The PH2 is $3.77, FL-820S is $3.97. FL-820S is capable of 10,000 mile runs per Ford & they always look excellent when cut open & also have a silicone ADBV versus nitrile on the Fram. The only thing inferior about Motorcraft is 93% filtering effeciency vs Fram's 95%. Not enough difference to matter. Motorcraft is the best bang for your buck in the oil filter world.
You do realize that FL-820S is made by Purolator, right?
Yes, but it's made to Ford's requirements. Not the same as filters with Purolator's name on them.
Originally Posted By: Branson304
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
I wouldn't buy any of those 3 - I'd buy a Motorcraft. FL400s if it's in stock, or FL910s if a 400s isn't available.
I agree. I have no reason to buy cheap filters that aren't of the greatest quality when I can pick up a Motorcraft for just 20 cents or so more. My vehicles would use the Fram PH2 or Motorcraft FL-820S. The PH2 is $3.77, FL-820S is $3.97. FL-820S is capable of 10,000 mile runs per Ford & they always look excellent when cut open & also have a silicone ADBV versus nitrile on the Fram. The only thing inferior about Motorcraft is 93% filtering effeciency vs Fram's 95%. Not enough difference to matter. Motorcraft is the best bang for your buck in the oil filter world.
You do realize that FL-820S is made by Purolator, right?
Yes, but it's made to Ford's requirements. Not the same as filters with Purolator's name on them.
If its Wix, Puro, FRAM, Baldwin, etc...any well-known brand...and it uses cellulose (paper) media, its probably performing relatively close in spec and in how much they shove into the can. There are only a couple of cellulose media suppliers making this grade of stuff in high volumes. The media companies probably sit back and laugh at all the different brands because they sell the same [censored] to everyone with a different spec name for a wide range of prices.
Steel lid and shell thickness is important for very, very few applications. Threaded plate thickness is pretty standard (except for very few special apps).
Then you're comparing gasket component materials (premium nitrile, basic nitrile, silicone) all of which will last fine & dandy for the duration oil your oil change interval. Plus installation stuff related to good threads, FRAM Suregrip or maybe a hex nut welded to the dome -- whatever you prefer.
So many people are lead & mis-lead by hearsay, generational favorites, and simply what's decent & on sale.
Then you get into the premium synthetic filters like FRAM Ultra, Mobile1, RoyalPurple, etc with synthetic glass media which flows & filters better than anything cellulose and will handle the longer oil change intervals.
I use FRAM Ultra with my synthetic oil, or ToughGuard with semi-syn (depends on what oil is on sale at the time). 94k miles on my truck and 140k on wife's SUV with no issues whatsoever. The filters perform with solid tech support to back it up, and I love the suregrip.
Steel lid and shell thickness is important for very, very few applications. Threaded plate thickness is pretty standard (except for very few special apps).
Then you're comparing gasket component materials (premium nitrile, basic nitrile, silicone) all of which will last fine & dandy for the duration oil your oil change interval. Plus installation stuff related to good threads, FRAM Suregrip or maybe a hex nut welded to the dome -- whatever you prefer.
So many people are lead & mis-lead by hearsay, generational favorites, and simply what's decent & on sale.
Then you get into the premium synthetic filters like FRAM Ultra, Mobile1, RoyalPurple, etc with synthetic glass media which flows & filters better than anything cellulose and will handle the longer oil change intervals.
I use FRAM Ultra with my synthetic oil, or ToughGuard with semi-syn (depends on what oil is on sale at the time). 94k miles on my truck and 140k on wife's SUV with no issues whatsoever. The filters perform with solid tech support to back it up, and I love the suregrip.
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Originally Posted By: Branson304
Yes, but it's made to Ford's requirements. Not the same as filters with Purolator's name on them.
Still there are some recorded MC as a Tearolator (5-6% of the reported failures)... Ford's specs did not save it completely but there were still some reports of failure. If you know which MC had the metal seams vs those that do not, it was the only way of having a good idea of the likelihood of failure.
Yes, but it's made to Ford's requirements. Not the same as filters with Purolator's name on them.
Still there are some recorded MC as a Tearolator (5-6% of the reported failures)... Ford's specs did not save it completely but there were still some reports of failure. If you know which MC had the metal seams vs those that do not, it was the only way of having a good idea of the likelihood of failure.
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Originally Posted By: DudeNiceRide
If its Wix, Puro, FRAM, Baldwin, etc...any well-known brand...and it uses cellulose (paper) media, its probably performing relatively close in spec and in how much they shove into the can. There are only a couple of cellulose media suppliers making this grade of stuff in high volumes. The media companies probably sit back and laugh at all the different brands because they sell the same [censored] to everyone with a different spec name for a wide range of prices.
Steel lid and shell thickness is important for very, very few applications. Threaded plate thickness is pretty standard (except for very few special apps).
Then you're comparing gasket component materials (premium nitrile, basic nitrile, silicone) all of which will last fine & dandy for the duration oil your oil change interval. Plus installation stuff related to good threads, FRAM Suregrip or maybe a hex nut welded to the dome -- whatever you prefer.
So many people are lead & mis-lead by hearsay, generational favorites, and simply what's decent & on sale.
Then you get into the premium synthetic filters like FRAM Ultra, Mobile1, RoyalPurple, etc with synthetic glass media which flows & filters better than anything cellulose and will handle the longer oil change intervals.
I use FRAM Ultra with my synthetic oil, or ToughGuard with semi-syn (depends on what oil is on sale at the time). 94k miles on my truck and 140k on wife's SUV with no issues whatsoever. The filters perform with solid tech support to back it up, and I love the suregrip.
Mobil 1 filters are synthetic blend not all synthetic. Do you have a reference to prove media is made by a couple suppliers and filter companies buy the same thing? I doubt that. My guess is they make their own, and many kinds of qualities for customers based on price.
If its Wix, Puro, FRAM, Baldwin, etc...any well-known brand...and it uses cellulose (paper) media, its probably performing relatively close in spec and in how much they shove into the can. There are only a couple of cellulose media suppliers making this grade of stuff in high volumes. The media companies probably sit back and laugh at all the different brands because they sell the same [censored] to everyone with a different spec name for a wide range of prices.
Steel lid and shell thickness is important for very, very few applications. Threaded plate thickness is pretty standard (except for very few special apps).
Then you're comparing gasket component materials (premium nitrile, basic nitrile, silicone) all of which will last fine & dandy for the duration oil your oil change interval. Plus installation stuff related to good threads, FRAM Suregrip or maybe a hex nut welded to the dome -- whatever you prefer.
So many people are lead & mis-lead by hearsay, generational favorites, and simply what's decent & on sale.
Then you get into the premium synthetic filters like FRAM Ultra, Mobile1, RoyalPurple, etc with synthetic glass media which flows & filters better than anything cellulose and will handle the longer oil change intervals.
I use FRAM Ultra with my synthetic oil, or ToughGuard with semi-syn (depends on what oil is on sale at the time). 94k miles on my truck and 140k on wife's SUV with no issues whatsoever. The filters perform with solid tech support to back it up, and I love the suregrip.
Mobil 1 filters are synthetic blend not all synthetic. Do you have a reference to prove media is made by a couple suppliers and filter companies buy the same thing? I doubt that. My guess is they make their own, and many kinds of qualities for customers based on price.
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