'07 Civic Si Amsoil ss 0w30 8k miles+drag strip

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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dgunay

There's no "real" oil cooler as it only uses water coolant. That being said, we are talking about something over 190-200f trying to "cool" the oil down.


Sounds like your typical coolant/oil heat exchanger, which is pretty common for an oil cooler/heater in automotive applications. Depending on how they are sized and whether they are thermostatically controlled they can be very effective. My old M5 had a very large one that was extremely effective at keeping oil temps down.

And yes, coolant that is 190-200F would be effective at pulling heat out of something that is 300F given enough exposure. That's why it is effective at extracting heat from various parts of the engine that are also significantly hotter than it. A key component is the surface area of the exposure, so if the heat exchanger is quite small and gives little exposure, then its effectiveness is going to be much lower than a large exchanger with far more surface area.

Is this one of those little donut style exchangers by the filter? Looks like this:

ktuned.oilcoolerhoses4_d.jpg


If so I would certainly agree that its effectiveness is going to be minimal compared to some of the larger exchanger setups out there.

The purpose is not only to cool the oil but to heat it (which is why it uses coolant) which increases the effectiveness of the lubricant by allowing the temperature-dependant additives to activate earlier. Coolant comes up to temp much faster than the oil does normally and is of course thermostatically regulated to around the temperature range you've noted, which is also a very good temperature for the oil to be at. So getting the oil up to that temp and then keeping it around that temperature is ideal. Of course that little heat exchanger pictured above isn't going to be overly effective at keeping the oil at the same temp as the coolant and is probably easily overwhelmed.

Do they make a larger exchanger or is the general upgrade process in this app to go to a thermostatically controlled air-to-oil cooler?


It's not a real oil cooler, just a little heat exchanger as you said. It's usually ideal for daily driven cars, with stock internals and factory rev limit, which is usually insufficient for track use.

This is what I called a real oil cooler with a radiator and thermostat(optional).

post-5134-0-25365200-1387345031.jpg
 
Figured as much, thanks for sharing
smile.gif


The factory BMW unit was quite large:
inv_007344.jpg


A fair bit larger than the unit on my SRT-8:
maxresdefault.jpg


Though they are both coolant/oil plate style exchangers and huge compared to the Honda one.
 
An air-to-oil cooler would be great if I started to push the car harder and had track time often. I don't see it useful for street driving as the stock exchanger seems to do fine. I also knew how the exchanger heats the oil from the beginning to help it reach operating temp faster. I would be weary of decreased oil pressure with a cooler installed. The bypass filter system already brought my idle oil pressure from 20psi down to 15-18 psi when warm.
 
Latest: guy on 8th civic forum is telling me that "VTEC will not engage properly on a Honda running a 0w oil and I must move to a 5w or 10w." As much as I respect other people's opinions, I have to disagree with that one. I'll be using this forum for related questions from now on lol.
 
Originally Posted By: Guitarman200806
Latest: guy on 8th civic forum is telling me that "VTEC will not engage properly on a Honda running a 0w oil and I must move to a 5w or 10w." As much as I respect other people's opinions, I have to disagree with that one. I'll be using this forum for related questions from now on lol.



Obviously whoever is spouting that nonsense is completely clueless. It's no different than the idiots who insist the non SRT hemi engines absolutely must use a 5w-20 or the vvt and mds won't work,which is complete nonsense.
It's funny. These people who tout this stuff as gospel have never tried anything else so they truly are ignorant in that they really don't know that other grades do work.
I'd ask why vtec suddenly won't work. Once you get their nonsense answer mention how do these engines work in winter when the oil is a 100 times thicker at start up.and why the v-tec system seems to operate under those conditions.
Typical Honda forums are like mustang forums. Know it all kids who still live at home
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Figured as much, thanks for sharing
smile.gif


The factory BMW unit was quite large:
inv_007344.jpg


A fair bit larger than the unit on my SRT-8:
maxresdefault.jpg


Though they are both coolant/oil plate style exchangers and huge compared to the Honda one.


Holy moly, that BMW unit looks like it's bigger than our engine block LOL
 
I think the pic may just make it look that way, LOL! It is nestled in the valley (the engine is ITB so there are no intake runners) underneath the plenum. There's a lot of space there.

Here's a pic of it installed. You can see it is quite tall and deep.

IMG_20110930_014711.jpg
 
I wouldn't step up to a 40 grade.

0w30, not needed for FL, but working great here.

Oil temps?

Bypass filter brought oil pressure down? Where is the oil PSI sender located in relation to the filter?

PN and pictures of bypass install?
 
8TPdvG0.jpg


kN8ZJHr.jpg


BGKKSVX.jpg


Here are the downright terrible pictures of the bypass filter installed on the car. I'll get better photos next time I have the car on the lift. Pressurized oil is pulled from an oil filter sandwich plate (block>heat exchanger>sandwich plate>full flow filter). I have two 1/8" ports on the adapter plate. One is utilized by the pressure sender for my oil pressure gauge (AEM digital 150 psi), and the other feeds oil be filtered by the bypass filter. The line feeding to the bypass filter runs to the other side of the engine bay and connect to the bypass filter inlet located on the frame under the battery. The bypass filtered oil then feeds back (center line on bypass housing) to the engine and is returned into the passenger side of the valve cover right next to the timing chain components where it has a direct path down to the pan. With all the plumbing I've used, I have only noticed a 3-5 psi drop at idle. I now observe 15-20 psi at hot idle but still 90-100+ psi all the way to 8300 rpm. The gauge is digital and it jumps a bit as it is very sensitive so I state the range I see instead of one number.

No 40 grade is in the books for now as the 0w30 is working fine. The same oil was installed now in 6.5 Qts. with the extra plumbing and filter. ~3800 miles and two months on this setup so far. No leaks, no weird noises, car feels stronger than ever honestly. Car has seen lots of redline and racing activities and as a result has consumed about .5 qts, not bad for a k20 with almost 100k miles under its belt. I can not wait to sample this, but I believe the bypass will skew my results? Can not state oil temps as I don't have a temp gauge installed yet. I imagine it can get pretty hot the way I drive. Hope I hit every point in the last reply.
 
Nice install, here is mine on my 2003 CRV. I'm currently running AZO 0w30.

BTW, I have the service manual for my CRV, and it clearly states 20, 30, and 40 grades of oil are suitable for the engine, a 40 grade would be suited for warmer or summer weather, IMO.







 
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Nice setup Zpinch. I went with the single remote bypass. Your CRV should run for a long time with that setup! I could try 40 weight, I'm just hesitant to change what appears to be working. With the abuse this car sees daily and the 30 weight in use for 8k miles, I saw no reason to deviate from that setup this last change (only to run the oil longer). Still running AZO right now. Next UOA should be interesting as it will be the first test post-bypass install.
 
I am no fan of sandwich plates. Some are parallel and others serial. Some have bypasses and others don't. Some have thermostats and others don't. Some have ports before filtration and others have ports after filtration.
As long as your is a pass thru device with simple parallel ports for bypass filter/psi gauge/temp sender...., all is well
wink.gif


My recommendation is a trigger on the bypass filter. Keep the bypass at 5psi-10psi less than engine oil pressure. Prioritize engine oil circuit(really important for engine starting and when at lower rpm).

Trigger:
http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Brass-Check-Cracking-Pressure/dp/B007I5U1X6
http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Brass-Cracking-Pressure-Female/dp/B007I5TZQ0
 
All four ports are on the outer edge of the plate. I believe they are all on the input side as the middle of the filter flows filtered oil to the rest of the engine.
 
Good for oil temp readings, bypass filter tapping in, .... but prefer a PSI sender after the filter on the output side of the filter. Engine block have an oil sender/test port/... downstream of the filter? If so, tap it for the AEM gauge.

Nothing worse than great oil PSI gauge readings before the filter, when the collapsed clogged broken defective damaged dropped filter starves the engine
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Your bypass install/sandwich are perfectly plumbed. Either use the trigger or a smaller orifice for the bypass filter. Don't care for the 'one size fits all' bypass orifices from most companies. Need to be sized to engine capability.

Still have balance shafts?
 
Greasymechtech I'd love to get more info on the extra plumbing you recommend. Yes, the original K20Z3 oil pump is still in use so the balance shafts are still in use as well. It would be nice to have a valve which only opened to allow oil to flow to the bypass when there was excess of oil pressure. Since the bypass install, the pressure has dipped as low as 15 psi at idle after a long hard run. It is still peaking 90-100+ psi at WOT as it did pre-bypass install however.
 
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