oil for 1972 Datsun 240z
- Thread starter dlundblad
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Castrol/Mobil 0w40
Delo/Rotella/Delvac 5w40
Any equivalent competitor to above.
Delo/Rotella/Delvac 5w40
Any equivalent competitor to above.
Wow, their recommended viscosity ratings are all over the chart. Looks like you really can't go wrong with T5/T6.
Those octane numbers, "more than 95" are unheard of here in my neck of the woods at today's gas pumps.
Leaded, I assume?
Originally Posted By: Kool1
Those octane numbers, "more than 95" are unheard of here in my neck of the woods at today's gas pumps.
95 RON: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Research_Octane_Number_.28RON.29
Those octane numbers, "more than 95" are unheard of here in my neck of the woods at today's gas pumps.
95 RON: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Research_Octane_Number_.28RON.29
OK, you might want to look at this Blog: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/ It's a bit of a read and you can drift somewhat as you read, but the bottom line is that there are a lot of good oils out there that have the extreme wear capabilities you will want in lieu of the older high ZDDP oils. Modern oils do well. They do not have to be synthetics to perform well. Some Dino oils do well and some blends do really well.
My choice for your situation would be Maxlife 10W-40. It rates well, is readily available (Wal-Mart) and well help keep old seal softer and tighter
My choice for your situation would be Maxlife 10W-40. It rates well, is readily available (Wal-Mart) and well help keep old seal softer and tighter
I think whatever decent 10W-40/15W-40 would do fine.
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I've owned three Nissan Z's and still drive one. Don't use a 0 or 5W,and don't use a synthetic. Go with a conventional 10W40. I'd probably use Pennzoil HM in that car.
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Originally Posted By: rainman49
I ran a beloved '76 Datsun 280z, which had fuel injection instead of the 240's carbs, for 12 years. Castrol GTX 20W-50 for 230K miles.
That's what I ran in my 77 280Z,GTX 20W50.
I ran a beloved '76 Datsun 280z, which had fuel injection instead of the 240's carbs, for 12 years. Castrol GTX 20W-50 for 230K miles.
That's what I ran in my 77 280Z,GTX 20W50.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
OK, you might want to look at this Blog:
Are we starting this again?
OK, you might want to look at this Blog:
Are we starting this again?
There is no again. The info might help an older car owner looking at a plethora of oils. It might not, but what's the concern?
I've been in contact with 540 RAT about the way the info is presented. He's doing some more work this winter (including looking at more HM 10W-40's), so maybe it will change some, But I suspect that highly rated oils on his blog will continue to be highly rated.
He has picked up some interest from other researchers working industry who are looking at lubrication issues...
I'd like the data arranged and presented somewhat differently, but I think it's valid in as far as it goes.
And a carb'd 240Z owner should know more about the changes in modern lubricants that are not represented in his antiquated owners manual. Wouldn't it be nice to 250,000 out of that motor than to start scrounging parts for a rebuild... That's on the owner, but info can't hurt ...
I've been in contact with 540 RAT about the way the info is presented. He's doing some more work this winter (including looking at more HM 10W-40's), so maybe it will change some, But I suspect that highly rated oils on his blog will continue to be highly rated.
He has picked up some interest from other researchers working industry who are looking at lubrication issues...
I'd like the data arranged and presented somewhat differently, but I think it's valid in as far as it goes.
And a carb'd 240Z owner should know more about the changes in modern lubricants that are not represented in his antiquated owners manual. Wouldn't it be nice to 250,000 out of that motor than to start scrounging parts for a rebuild... That's on the owner, but info can't hurt ...
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The methodology stinks and there's no error analysis, and for an engineer, that's pretty poor. He himself states it bares no semblance to what happens in an engine, so what's the point? Yet, he claims anecdotally to be able to have some correlation with track failures or some such thing.
So, what we have are anecdotal stories about how a non-reproducible test with no methodology adequately explained and no error analysis. And, we're supposed to choose an oil based upon this?
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
There is no again. The info might help an older car owner looking at a plethora of oils. It might not, but what's the concern?
Then what's the point?
So, what we have are anecdotal stories about how a non-reproducible test with no methodology adequately explained and no error analysis. And, we're supposed to choose an oil based upon this?
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
There is no again. The info might help an older car owner looking at a plethora of oils. It might not, but what's the concern?
Then what's the point?
You could use any current-spec 10W-40 and rest easy.
These are much better oils than anything available when the car was built and these engines were known to achieve high mileages back in the day.
The engine has lower specific output than any current four cyl I can think of and is SOHC, so valve spring pressures should be low, so I don't think this is a highly stressed engine and is likely to be undemanding of its oil.
These are gorgeous cars that are a blast to drive.
Great engine note and great shifter.
I had an FI 2+2 280 for a while that I liked a lot, although the 2+2 steers like a truck.
If I were you, I'd be more concerned about keeping the rust genie at bay than I would about what oil to use.
These cars were horrifically rust prone when new.
Between this and their daily-driver quality reliability and durability, few originals survive in this part of the country.
These are much better oils than anything available when the car was built and these engines were known to achieve high mileages back in the day.
The engine has lower specific output than any current four cyl I can think of and is SOHC, so valve spring pressures should be low, so I don't think this is a highly stressed engine and is likely to be undemanding of its oil.
These are gorgeous cars that are a blast to drive.
Great engine note and great shifter.
I had an FI 2+2 280 for a while that I liked a lot, although the 2+2 steers like a truck.
If I were you, I'd be more concerned about keeping the rust genie at bay than I would about what oil to use.
These cars were horrifically rust prone when new.
Between this and their daily-driver quality reliability and durability, few originals survive in this part of the country.
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