Clutch drag

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What would cause the car to creep when in 1st or rev and the clutch all the way in? On my Genesis Coupe with a Competition Clutch 5095-2300 kevlar stage. 3
 
New and bled clutch slave, new clutch master cylinder and an adjustable clutch rod.

A new pressure plate and flywheel were installed too at the time. It has done this from the get go after the clutch replacement.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
New and bled clutch slave, new clutch master cylinder and an adjustable clutch rod.

A new pressure plate and flywheel were installed too at the time. It has done this from the get go after the clutch replacement.


Since it is adjustable, I believe you are going to have to set it with minimum free play. Or, you have a bit of air in the system.

Does the "Creep" increase, the longer you hold the clutch in? If so......It is a hydraulic failure.
 
No it's there as son as I shift into one of the gears. It is hard to shift into reverse and 1st when stopped and the engine running. Engine off no problem.

I think it's just a poorly designed clutch. Had it for two years now.
 
With the concentric slave cylinder set up I have in my truck, there is no clutch reserve at all. If everything (master, slave, fluid) is 100% then I can have the rear wheels not spin with the truck rear jacked up. If anything is the least bit off then I get clutch drag.
 
No shimming that I know of. I am not the only one to have this problem with this clutch and with this car. The OEM slave is hard to bleed.

Here's a picture of it.

coupe-thow-out-bearing-cylinder.jpg
 
I don't see a bleeder fitting on the slave, just the fluid line coming to it. They must have designed the system to be self bleeding - line comes in at the top of the slave, and the line going uphill all the way from the slave to the m/c. Any air that does get in works its way back to the m/c.
 
Actually the line goes through the bellhousing at the 90* and connects to a block with t he bleeder screw. One of the issues when bleeding is the car has to be level or higher in the back. Raise the front and then the bubbles have to go down hill.

KHMAPDK0841-41001.jpg


clutch-slave-bleeder.jpg
 
Your system looks easier to bleed than mine. On the Sierra, the bleeder is actually on the concentric slave and has to be accessed, using a deep socket, through a hole on the side of the bell housing. If the bleeder is stuck you are out of luck. If you round off the hex on the bleeder, you are out of luck. If you snap off the bleeder then you are pulling the tranny off.
 
Well seeing as this has been from the get go either the clutch is badly designed/defective or I did something wrong during install. As I said a few other have this problem too with this clutch.

I would never put another back in, Can get the upgraded +2013 OEM for the same price now, around $850.
 
Originally Posted By: George7941
Your system looks easier to bleed than mine. On the Sierra, the bleeder is actually on the concentric slave and has to be accessed, using a deep socket, through a hole on the side of the bell housing. If the bleeder is stuck you are out of luck. If you round off the hex on the bleeder, you are out of luck. If you snap off the bleeder then you are pulling the tranny off.


The very next time (if ever) you have the trans down for a clutch/slave/RMS/etc. change, install a remote speed bleeder.

One of the best maintenance mods I've ever done on this car!!
 
I have seen the remote bleeders online and have read the very positive reviews by almost everybody who has installed them.

I just went through some frustration with having to bleed the clutch everyday for a month. Clutch would start dragging after 1/2 hr of driving and would get progressively worse. After reading a lot online I eventually figured out that it was the m/c sending air into the slave. The one important fact I came across was this - THE SLAVE CANNOT SUCK IN AIR UNLESS IT IS ALSO LEAKING. Changed the m/c and all is good.

I carried a jack, jack stand and a piece of cardboard to lie down on and bled the clutch in the Costco parking lot and many many other places. I definitely could have used the remote bleeder during the month I was bleeding the clutch everyday.

I got to be very good at bleeding the clutch to the point it is very easy to me to do now.
 
Originally Posted By: George7941
...the slave cannot suck in air unless it is also leaking...

In my experience, with the high friction present in a concentric cylinder that is not universally correct and it's due to transient conditions that we don't normally consider.

After releasing the clutch pedal, due to crank end float the slave gets pushed back slightly more after a short time, returning fluid to the reservoir via the master cyl. On the next actuation, because the master cyl initially uses a small amount of stroke to close that clearance, on return the slave stops pushing back fluid after the pressure plate spring is fully relaxed since there is no return spring other than the pressure plate. A vacuum results before the master cyl is able to reach the point where it is open to the reservoir. If the slave seals are getting worn they will not be able to resist that vacuum and will pull air in, giving you a soft clutch.

The test for this is that the clutch system bleed holds with engine off, but fails when you start the engine and actuate the clutch a few times.

OP's issue sounds simply like there is still air stuck in the slave.
 
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