Home made rust preventive oil question.

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I have been making homemade rust preventative oil for some time now. Its your typical, kerosene, motor oil wax (toilet wax ring) mix. I spend about $7/gal. My vehicles are rust free and it has served me well. I have always made a batch and used it right away. This year, I'm thinking of making 5-10 gallons of it and having it ready for the following years.
My question is; would the ingredients settle out or solidify? What I use is a mixture and not a suspension, so I see no reason why it would separate or solidify. Does anyone think or know if there would be a chance this would happen?
Also, I read on a plow forum about someone who throws some baking soda in his home made rust preventive oil mix to counteract the acidity of de icing liquids which contain acids from reclaimed fracking fluids. Would baking soda really do anything?
 
Baking soda in the presence of acid will release C02 and may produce foam. Also, wouldn't moisture deactivate the baking soda?
 
Tell us more about your homemade concoction. What is the recipe? How do you apply it to your car? How long have you had success with it? How old is your car and the environment you drive it in?

Originally Posted By: Michael_P
I have been making homemade rust preventative oil for some time now. Its your typical, kerosene, motor oil wax (toilet wax ring) mix. I spend about $7/gal. My vehicles are rust free and it has served me well. I have always made a batch and used it right away. This year, I'm thinking of making 5-10 gallons of it and having it ready for the following years.
My question is; would the ingredients settle out or solidify? What I use is a mixture and not a suspension, so I see no reason why it would separate or solidify. Does anyone think or know if there would be a chance this would happen?
Also, I read on a plow forum about someone who throws some baking soda in his home made rust preventive oil mix to counteract the acidity of de icing liquids which contain acids from reclaimed fracking fluids. Would baking soda really do anything?
 
If you buy FF or Carwell by the gallon what does it cost maybe $50. And a gallon will do 2 cars. And while your mix might be better than nothing I would doubt its as good as FF or Carwell. After all they have spent a lot of money coming up with them.

So your saving maybe $20/yr and if it does not do as good a job as the store bought ones, then where are your savings really?

And with a new car, the companies offer a warranty if you do it every year.
 
2 1/2 quarts kerosene
12 oz. wax (2, Harveys, Bol_Wax #1 at 6oz each)
1 quart light machine oil (though I have used as thick as SAE 40 and it sprayed well).

At Menards, if I buy 10 or more wax rings, the price drops from $1.50 each to $1 each.

I have used FF, Caterpillar part# 1U8801 rest preventative oil and others. They do work well, but the stuff I use is the only thing I know that makes salty water bead right of the undercoating on the frame rails throughout the whole year. From what I have read online, this brew is made to replace Waxoyl.

I have a 14 year old and a 19 year old vehicle that has been through Ohio winters their life with no rust. I think how you drive has a lot to do with rust. For instance, I never follow vehicles closely during wet weather after the roads were salted. I have seen more radiator core supports completely rusted out that way. Also, if you are on a four lane road and one side is sprayed with de-icer, go to the lane that does not have the de_icer and be careful.


Here is a variation of what I use.
 
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
2 1/2 quarts kerosene
12 oz. wax (2, Harveys, Bol_Wax #1 at 6oz each)
1 quart light machine oil (though I have used as thick as SAE 40 and it sprayed well).

At Menards, if I buy 10 or more wax rings, the price drops from $1.50 each to $1 each.

I have used FF, Caterpillar part# 1U8801 rest preventative oil and others. They do work well, but the stuff I use is the only thing I know that makes salty water bead right of the undercoating on the frame rails throughout the whole year. From what I have read online, this brew is made to replace Waxoyl.

I have a 14 year old and a 19 year old vehicle that has been through Ohio winters their life with no rust. I think how you drive has a lot to do with rust. For instance, I never follow vehicles closely during wet weather after the roads were salted. I have seen more radiator core supports completely rusted out that way. Also, if you are on a four lane road and one side is sprayed with de-icer, go to the lane that does not have the de_icer and be careful.


Here is a variation of what I use.


Do you have any pictures of the condition of your vehicles and a picture of your home brew?
 
Nice work.

I make Ed's Red for guns...
Acetone, Gum Turpentine, Kero (equivalent), ATF, and lanolin.

There IS a certain satisfaction doing it yourself.
 
I'll have pix tomorrow. At work now. I cant get Photobucket at work. Do you want underbody, whole car, or both?
 
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
I'll have pix tomorrow. At work now. I cant get Photobucket at work. Do you want underbody, whole car, or both?


Underbody, whole car and a picture of the home brew if you have any left.

Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Heat it up!


I don't know. I'd like to remain in one piece.

Maybe pb blaster would dissolve wax. It'll eat plastic.
 
Whats a toilet wax ring?

Sounds like something my GF would buy LOTS of toxic chemicals to remove.

I spray with diesel/motor oil/sunflower oil.

IIRC the last batch was about 2:1:1 but I'll probably try increasing the SFO and MO next time since it was still sprayable with a hand trigger-spray.

I've used Waxoyl but can't get it here, and didn't think much of it anyway. Doesn't spray well, isn't very penetrating, and skins over. That's maybe 20 years ago, though, so they may have improved it.
 
I'm still trying to get a good under body pic, but these are our two oldest vehicles I own that have been treated before every winter with some sort of rust preventative oil. In recent years, its the homebrew. The 97 Ford has 271,000 miles and the 01 Mazda has 260,000 miles. They are out almost every day in the winter and we still take them on long winter ski trips. The pic of the Mazda was taken yesterday and the Ford pic was taken this past summer. The 97 Ford has seen 18 Ohio winters and the 01 Mazda 14. In all fairness, the Mazda had rust fixed at the rear quarters, but it was minor in comparison to what other 01 Mazda Proteges look like here in Ohio. The Ford is completely untouched.

100_6619_zpswa5im9ro.jpg


That dribble you see by the rear wheel is the homebrew rust preventative oil.

100_6621B_zpspjobbhdt.jpg


100_63482_zpseaa6d1be.jpg



There are other pictures if you copy the URL and view the slideshow. I didn't want to bog down someones connection since this is not in the photo section.
 
Nice work! What do you use to apply it, and what kind of prep work do you do prior to applying it? Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: cat843
If you buy FF or Carwell by the gallon what does it cost maybe $50. And a gallon will do 2 cars. And while your mix might be better than nothing I would doubt its as good as FF or Carwell. After all they have spent a lot of money coming up with them.


I dunno these companies, but I've been told Fluid Film is similar to Waxoyl, which I believe is basically crude lanolin in a white spirit carrier. In other words its sheep grease.

Sheep grease may well be very good stuff, but the white coats primarily involved are not those of rocket scientists, but sheep, and sheep are paid even less than rocket scientists.

So I'd have to see the accounts before I'd believe in the huge research budget.
 
No prep work less giving it a good pressure wash in the late summer. If it’s somewhat clean, I apply. I make very certain the car has been dry for at least a week prior to application. I use a 1qt SureShot sprayer to apply. I melt the wax using a Kats oil pan heater and do my mixing in an old oil pan from an old Datsun. I have a 1/4 turn valve on the drain plug to reduce my mess making. I also welded angle steel on the corners of the oil pan to elevate the pan about 18 inches.

Since I posted the pix an old timer told me diesel fuel would make a better penetrant than kerosene. Does anyone know if this is true?
 
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