Aston Martin DB7 Vantage

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Hi all, new poster here.

I have a 2004 Aston Martin DB7 Vantage Volante with the 5.9 V12 motor. Currently on 42,000 miles, it developed an annoying 'ticking' noise when hot and at idle/low rpm at around 32,000 miles. Over time a number of these cars have developed similar symptoms, but no-one solution has been found. I have had all my hydraulic valve adjusters/rockers replaced recently, and whilst this has lessened the volume of the 'ticking' it has not eradicated it. Now it may be that my motor has a more deep rooted problem (bearings, sleeve wear?) that would necessitate a full rebuild - but I won't have the funds for that kind of work for some time. There is also a very strong suspicion within the AM owners community that there is a weakness in the early V12s oil system, that leads to low oil pressure when the motors have a few years in them. The car is in the UAE, where ambient temps range from near 50C in summer to 15C in winter and it is often dusty; I always warm the car up before setting off, and only drive it sparingly; when I do it is for occasional short, steady trips and sometimes longer, faster ones. Although I sometimes rev it through the gears up to to 5500rpm (redline at @6500) I do not 'thrash' the car. AM recommend Mobil 1 0W40 for the oil, but AM dealerships with experience of these cars are increasingly recommending 5W50 or 10W60 oils; I now have the latter in my car. The reason for my post is that I have been reading several articles advocating the use of thinner oils to increase flow rather than thicker ones to increase pressure. One of the believed causes of this 'ticking' noise at low rpm when hot, is that the hydraulic valve adjusters are not working correctly in this situation due to 'low oil pressure'. Does that make sense, and would a thicker oil to increase pressure be the way to alleviate that issue? Alternatively, and what sounds more valid to me, should I use a thinner oil to improve oil flow around the motor and to the valves especially? Mobil themselves now recommend 5W50 Peak Life for this motor, and that is what the UK dealers are using; but does the environment here in the UAE mean I should go thinner?

If thinner, then options could be 0W30, 5W30, back to 0W40 (although noise started when I was using that), 10W40 and so on. There is also Valvoline's Engine Armmour that could be considered....

All comments would be welcome; cheers, Ray.
 
Hi and welcome to the board!

Did anyone check the cams to see if they have any wear on them?

And by checking I don't mean eyeballing and questimating; what I mean is checking the cam for straightness and the lobes and journals for imperfections with the proper equipment.
 
Man, one thing I have for sure - I wouldn't be using 0W-30 in 50 degrees Celsius, IMO 5W-50 (for normal use) and 10W-60 (for sporty driving) are better candidates for this car and for such ambient temperatures. Returning back to the lifter tick concern - have the engine been opened for head gasket work or whatever repair work involving taking out the cylinder heads? What is your oil pressure at operation temp idle? I guess what you hear are one or two lifters ticking, not all of them. If the problem persisted after changing all the lifters it might be worn main and rod bearings, which I hope is not the case or oil pump not moving enough volume which would be a better option.
 
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Consider the AM recommendations as important. Many different viscosities and brands of oil might work just fine but there's another consideration here. Warranty aside your service records and the oil you use will effect the resale value when you move on to your next car. Your future buyer may not be a BITOG member and the mechanic that does the pre-purchase inspection might not be a good source of information about possible choices of oil not explicitly recommended by the factory.
 
To my knowledge the heads have never been off the car, but I am its' 3rd owner and have only had it 3 years. The oil pressure on the dial is normal (according to AM), but it is renowned for being 'less than accurate' shall we say. Even if it is the oil pump that is causing the problem, it's an engine out and strip down job to replace it, and I can't go that route any time soon. I'm looking for options to mitigate the problem, hence the question about oils; in my Dad's day, it was just put thicker oil in a noisy/old engine!

The problem with following recommendations from the factory is that they are different from the people who actually look after these older cars! AML say 0W40; well known/respected AM agent in UK says 5W50; AM in Dubai repeat AML recommendation of 0W40, but also agree 10W60 is sometimes suitable for these older motors. Confusing, no?
 
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I did some work on AM back in the day. The "ticking" noise at idle, hot usually was the exhaust manifold holding nuts on the cylinder head(s) were loose (or missing altogether)

A slight exhaust manifold leak sounded very metallic and internal..but tightening the manifold nuts usually solved the problem.

I recall they were a metric 1.0 fine thread..7mm, I think..its been a while.
 
Originally Posted By: navyatco
...The problem with following recommendations from the factory is that they are different from the people who actually look after these older cars! AML say 0W40; well known/respected AM agent in UK says 5W50; AM in Dubai repeat AML recommendation of 0W40, but also agree 10W60 is sometimes suitable for these older motors. Confusing, no?


Yeah, I guess an oil recomended for Sweden wouldn't be the most suitable in Brazil, also it's not the same a granny driven grocery-getter and a regularly tracked and run in the redline zone car. If someone ever tells you that there's an oil (even the factory recomended one, if any) that fits all climate conditions and driving styles I recomend you to not follow his advices.
 
Originally Posted By: DB_Cooper
I did some work on AM back in the day. The "ticking" noise at idle, hot usually was the exhaust manifold holding nuts on the cylinder head(s) were loose (or missing altogether)

A slight exhaust manifold leak sounded very metallic and internal..but tightening the manifold nuts usually solved the problem.

I recall they were a metric 1.0 fine thread..7mm, I think..its been a while.


If this is the fix for the OP (and hopefully it is), it will be a Godsend. Great response and very helpful.
 
Hopefully the OP will have it checked and confirm the problem. A leaking exhaust manifold gasket will sound just like a bad lifter or loose valve. tick..tick..tick..
 
As an adjunct to this topic, a bunch of us AM owners are getting a go round the Abu Dhabi GP track in December; I will be engaging in a 'spirited', but not 'hooligan', driving style - the DB7 Vantage Volante is, after all, a GT not a sportscar.

Would it be wise to change my oil/filter before, after, or both?
 
Originally Posted By: navyatco
As an adjunct to this topic, a bunch of us AM owners are getting a go round the Abu Dhabi GP track in December; I will be engaging in a 'spirited', but not 'hooligan', driving style - the DB7 Vantage Volante is, after all, a GT not a sportscar.

Would it be wise to change my oil/filter before, after, or both?


Sounds like fun. I wouldn't change a thing if this going to be a one time run. If auto-crossing every other weekend, it would be another story.
 
Yup, exhaust leaks can be misleading (sound mechanical...) and I would definitely be using Xw-50 for daily driving and the Xw-60 for the track day
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: navyatco
As an adjunct to this topic, a bunch of us AM owners are getting a go round the Abu Dhabi GP track in December; I will be engaging in a 'spirited', but not 'hooligan', driving style - the DB7 Vantage Volante is, after all, a GT not a sportscar.

Would it be wise to change my oil/filter before, after, or both?


How many miles on oil actually? If the oil's on its last legs I recomend you to change it before a "spirited driving" event. Sporty driving puts alot more stress on oil than everyday cruising. If you're gonna redline the engine continuously (which happens in a race mode) it's better to use an oil intended for such use with the correct viscosity - 10W-50; 15W-50 (full synthetic, not dyno); 10W60. Don't let yourself be fooled by some people that 0W-20/0W-30 being "recomended by the manufacturer" for Finland (for better fuel economy) would be perfect in Dubai for track performance.
 
Originally Posted By: navyatco
Oil was last changed in May, and has done about 1500 miles.


Not many miles really, but almost six months of use, which maybe means many short trips with the corresponding fuel dilution of cold starts and cold running, which's not good for track use, more if using 0W-40. As people say: "oil's cheep, engines are not", more in your case with this V12. As I told you in my earlier post for such a high-performance, high-end engine I would go with a race-specific oil like Red Line or Motul 300V if going on track.
 
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