Your favorite 507 oil is ( ). Why?

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How does the Unicorn viscosity index correlate to VW "requirements", and what benefits does it have over other VW approved oils with a much better range of general specifications.

Remember, NOACK is more about emissions systems protection than deposits...oh and poorer NOACK also thickens the oil.
 
Ah, the master of obfuscation at work.
That's fine you can use all the cheaper to formulate low VI oils out there; someone has to use it.

BTW chasing Noack volatility is very much a mug's game. Implying an oil with a still excellent 9-10% Noack WILL thicken oil is of course nonsense. A Noack as high as 15% is low enough in most applications to prevent thickening due to evaporation of lighter fractions.

What's far more likely is a deterioration of the oil's cold start performance at subfreezing temp's with extended OCIs. Under such conditions going with a 0W-30 is a better bet over a 5W-30.

How much lighter is PP Euro LX 0W-30 on start-up vs M1 ESP 5W-30?
25% even at 80F, 40% at 32F and progressively more at colder temp's.
If you want to maximize fuel economy this would be the oil of choice. Pennzoil claims a 3% fuel economy gain in the VW PV1451 test.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Pennzoil claims a 3% fuel economy gain in the VW PV1451 test.

Is that with or without the emissions system deactivated?
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Sorry, couldn't help myself.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Pennzoil claims a 3% fuel economy gain in the VW PV1451 test.

Is that with or without the emissions system deactivated?
wink.gif
Sorry, couldn't help myself.

Don't tell me your hung up on Noack as well?
 
No. A good Noack is fine, but considering my love of conventional, I'm obviously not that worried. And, I'm not running out to buy PYB 10w-30, either. Obviously, winter coming and $28 a jug really doesn't make it worth it.
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Off topic, but what happens when a so-called conventional is actually 100% synthetic? Does that not present some psychological issues? Or is the real love affair with the least expensive oil that should do the job?

BTW PYB is on sale at Cdn Tire for $4.5/qt.
 
Well, that's what love is all about, Caterham, self-delusion.
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Thanks for the tip. I didn't check out CT's ad this week. The Shell distributor can get me Formula Shell for substantially cheaper than that, though, so CT has to try harder, like a good deal on the jugs.
 
I thought you recently said you didn't have a Shell distributor near you?
See what price you can get on some PP Euro LX 0W-30 for the G37.
I can't think of a more suitable engine lube in your climate if you must run a HTHSV 3.5cP oil. The fuel savings alone should make up or the higher cost. Besides sometimes it's just fun to be one of the first to try out the latest and best.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Ah, the master of obfuscation at work.
That's fine you can use all the cheaper to formulate low VI oils out there; someone has to use it.


By obfuscation, and in the context of previous discussions, you mean bringing facts rather then posits...

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
BTW chasing Noack volatility is very much a mug's game. Implying an oil with a still excellent 9-10% Noack WILL thicken oil is of course nonsense. A Noack as high as 15% is low enough in most applications to prevent thickening due to evaporation of lighter fractions.


Your words, I never stated that I was chasing NOACK, just answering your question as to what parameters in the Mobil oil were better than the quoted oil.

My latest query, along the same lines of your NOACK within the envelope stance was what VI VW specify, becasue clearly, 5W30s with VI's in the 160 range are "satisfactory" to VW.

So satisfactory that while they've got actual performance parameters for all sorts of things, (yes including NOACK) that they don't even have a VI specification.

Wondering why a higher VI with more compromises in other areas would meet your definition of a superior oil, when something more middle of the envelope is a better "all rounder". Chasing VI exclusively and ignoring the other compromises in the package isn't a mug's game, it's a fool's errand.

Again, if you need a 0W" for your ambient, you need a 0W, have never argued otherwise.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
What's far more likely is a deterioration of the oil's cold start performance at subfreezing temp's with extended OCIs. Under such conditions going with a 0W-30 is a better bet over a 5W-30.


Under the standards the oils MAY, not DO, slip a W grade in service. As you keep telling me, the API limits are not necessarily the industry norms.

Even the 5W slipping a W grade will still be good for -30C...horses for courses, and as I stated, if you need the CCS, the choice is clearly 0W.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
How much lighter is PP Euro LX 0W-30 on start-up vs M1 ESP 5W-30?
25% even at 80F, 40% at 32F and progressively more at colder temp's.
If you want to maximize fuel economy this would be the oil of choice. Pennzoil claims a 3% fuel economy gain in the VW PV1451 test.


Still stuck on that start-up versus warmup thing eh ?

SOPUS claim 1.7 for the 5W30 ECT. As you keep telling me, the allowable test limit is not the industry norm (e.g. TEOST being higher on 0W20 due to pressure from the Japanese OEMs)...the average user is going to see nothing between the high VI 0W30 versus ECT 5W30...clearly a difference in a test sequence, next to nothing in actuality.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Don't tell me your hung up on Noack as well?


Interested in your evidence of that ... or that I'm hung up on NOACK for that matter.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I thought you recently said you didn't have a Shell distributor near you?

There is a Shell distributor in Regina, but they are only permitted to deal with Shell products (i.e. Formula Shell, Rotella, Shell branded greases, Shell branded industrial lubes, etc.). For Pennzoil or Quaker State, I have to go to a distributor that's authorized by Shell Canada to sell Pennzoil-Quaker State products. That would require me going to Weyburn or, of all places, La Ronge. I don't know how they worked that one out.

I'm sure the Pennzoil Euro would be good. But, Shell's distribution in western Canada is a mess. I'm not quite sure if they have the same issues out east, but throughout the west, there are those two tiers of Shell distributors.

I could try Mobil Delvac 1 LE 5w-30.
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And I haven't forgotten about Delvac Elite 222 0w-30, either.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes that is a very low Noack number, lower than VW requires and of course we don't know if it translates into any actual deposit benefit.

So it comes down to whether you want the advantages of a 0W oil with a 40 point VI advantage (204 vs 164) or not. Mobil's ESP 0W-30 isn't VW certified so that isn't an option.

If I had an Audi/VW that specified a 504.00/507.00 oil, PP Euro LX 0W-30 is the oil I'd use.

Pour point is -45 on ESP, which is great for 5W oil. I used it several times and had a feeling that starts on -20, -25 better then M1 0W40. Probably has higher content of Ester so sticks to moving parts longer.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes that is a very low Noack number, lower than VW requires and of course we don't know if it translates into any actual deposit benefit.

So it comes down to whether you want the advantages of a 0W oil with a 40 point VI advantage (204 vs 164) or not. Mobil's ESP 0W-30 isn't VW certified so that isn't an option.

If I had an Audi/VW that specified a 504.00/507.00 oil, PP Euro LX 0W-30 is the oil I'd use.


Well, PP Euro LX 0w-30 it is.

Where I live in WV we get every season with a vengeance.
Summers easily in 90 degree plus for weeks and -10 to -20 during winter is not unheard of.

Car gets 30/70 city/highway and we do put on the miles as it now has 17k and was purchased on 3/15.

With the upcoming "fix" for the TDI coming up I hear increase of urea usage and more EGR flow is the probable fix.
With the increased EGR flow then a lower NOACK would be good right?
Just something else I'm thinking of since the news of the last few days.
 
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