According to the oil recommendation for my Kohler 7000 Series in my Ariens 46" lawn rider, I should use a 10w30 oil. Since it's used only in the summer, can I use 5w30 motor oil in it? Reason being is that I have 6 jugs of Maxlife full synthetic 5w30 oil that I can use. Don't really want to buy any more oil unless absolutely necessary.
Can a 5w30 be used?
- Thread starter Eosyn
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I do it all the time, our gen sets seem to last plenty long as does the rest of our equipment in commercial use. They either get 5w-30 or rotella 15w-40 depending on what is in the shop.
A full synthetic 5W-30 should be fine. I don't know about Kohler, but B&S approves synthetic 5W-30 at all ambient temperatures.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/faqs/mower-oil-type-and-capacity
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/faqs/mower-oil-type-and-capacity
This is from my engine manual. I don't understand why the 5w30 only goes up to feezing point while the other two -30 grades go above 100F. What am I not understanding?
Perhaps the 5w30 shown here is not synthetic? while synthetic 5w30 can go beyond 100F?
Perhaps the 5w30 shown here is not synthetic? while synthetic 5w30 can go beyond 100F?
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Why the factory rec?
Because ILSAC 5w30 would be an underspec oil for "larger" aircooled engines in ODPE.
also, recall that "fully synthetic" doesnt mean the product you just purchased is synthetic.
Ive had good luck with Valvoline Racing VR1 10w30 "synthetic" in hot run aircooled CHONDA engines. Sometimes the bigbox fake autoparts stores have it on clearance and I grab a couple qts.
I cant find Rotella T 10w30 "dino" anymore - the ODPE GO TO. I'm not a huge fan of the newer RT5 ive tried.
Because ILSAC 5w30 would be an underspec oil for "larger" aircooled engines in ODPE.
also, recall that "fully synthetic" doesnt mean the product you just purchased is synthetic.
Ive had good luck with Valvoline Racing VR1 10w30 "synthetic" in hot run aircooled CHONDA engines. Sometimes the bigbox fake autoparts stores have it on clearance and I grab a couple qts.
I cant find Rotella T 10w30 "dino" anymore - the ODPE GO TO. I'm not a huge fan of the newer RT5 ive tried.
I use left over 0w-30 oil from my regular car oil changes. It does not "disappear" when used in my Honda mower and has been working great for 20 years or so. I collect the last remnants from the bottles by letting them drain for a few weeks before I dispose of them. This last little bit of Red Line oil takes forever to completely drain out of the bottles.
That synthetic 5W30 will work great in your engine. Use with confidence. As already mentioned Briggs #1 recommendation for ALL of their engines is synthetic 5W30.
In hot air cooled engines a mineral 5w30 will evaporate/consume faster, but this is much less of a concern with a synthetic. Also sometimes the HTHSV is lower on a 5w30 than 10w30/SAE 30
I have done some research on this. Yes, use it with complete confidence and sleep well at night. I use Synpower 5W-30 for both mowers because that is what I use in my vehicles as well. And no, in my case the oil does not "disappear." It stays at the same level for the entire OCI (after all, if it is not entering the combustion chamber, and not leaking, where could it go?
) It seems my Briggs runs cooler on the synthetic. My mom's new Kawi seems great so far with it as well, although way too early to tell. The only caution (my opinion, not fact) I can give is avoid a conventional 5W-30, and not to extend the OCI very much, if at all, past the recommended interval with a synthetic.
I end up with half a quart left over from oil changes.
5w30 Mobil 5000, or Quaker State.
I have started saving that half a quart in a clean 5 quart jug, I use that for the lawn equipment.
I change oil in the lawnmower once a year and always have "free" oil.
Never had a problem with it burning a drop either.
5w30 Mobil 5000, or Quaker State.
I have started saving that half a quart in a clean 5 quart jug, I use that for the lawn equipment.
I change oil in the lawnmower once a year and always have "free" oil.
Never had a problem with it burning a drop either.
I wouldn't use a 5W-30 in a small engine.
Originally Posted By: Eosyn
This is from my engine manual. I don't understand why the 5w30 only goes up to feezing point while the other two -30 grades go above 100F. What am I not understanding?
Perhaps the 5w30 shown here is not synthetic? while synthetic 5w30 can go beyond 100F?
The chart is based on the worse possible oil allowed to be use, which would be conventional oil rated API SJ. Which we all know conventional oil is even better today. I think the Kohler engineers took the easy road out of synthetic oil and just lump than with the conventional. As far as I say, use it with confidence. I used 5w30 synthetic oil in my Kawasaki without needing to add. its about as good or even better than your straight 30 weight oil.
This is from my engine manual. I don't understand why the 5w30 only goes up to feezing point while the other two -30 grades go above 100F. What am I not understanding?
Perhaps the 5w30 shown here is not synthetic? while synthetic 5w30 can go beyond 100F?
The chart is based on the worse possible oil allowed to be use, which would be conventional oil rated API SJ. Which we all know conventional oil is even better today. I think the Kohler engineers took the easy road out of synthetic oil and just lump than with the conventional. As far as I say, use it with confidence. I used 5w30 synthetic oil in my Kawasaki without needing to add. its about as good or even better than your straight 30 weight oil.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
In hot air cooled engines a mineral 5w30 will evaporate/consume faster, but this is much less of a concern with a synthetic. Also sometimes the HTHSV is lower on a 5w30 than 10w30/SAE 30
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
That synthetic 5W30 will work great in your engine. Use with confidence. As already mentioned Briggs #1 recommendation for ALL of their engines is synthetic 5W30.
Originally Posted By: NH73
The chart is based on the worse possible oil allowed to be use, which would be conventional oil rated API SJ. Which we all know conventional oil is even better today. I think the Kohler engineers took the easy road out of synthetic oil and just lump than with the conventional. As far as I say, use it with confidence. I used 5w30 synthetic oil in my Kawasaki without needing to add. its about as good or even better than your straight 30 weight oil.
Thanks much for the explanations. Will take advice and use my supply of full synthetic 5w30 Maxlife and not worry.
In hot air cooled engines a mineral 5w30 will evaporate/consume faster, but this is much less of a concern with a synthetic. Also sometimes the HTHSV is lower on a 5w30 than 10w30/SAE 30
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
That synthetic 5W30 will work great in your engine. Use with confidence. As already mentioned Briggs #1 recommendation for ALL of their engines is synthetic 5W30.
Originally Posted By: NH73
The chart is based on the worse possible oil allowed to be use, which would be conventional oil rated API SJ. Which we all know conventional oil is even better today. I think the Kohler engineers took the easy road out of synthetic oil and just lump than with the conventional. As far as I say, use it with confidence. I used 5w30 synthetic oil in my Kawasaki without needing to add. its about as good or even better than your straight 30 weight oil.
Thanks much for the explanations. Will take advice and use my supply of full synthetic 5w30 Maxlife and not worry.
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