Brake Lines - Galv Steel, Poly Armour,or NiCop?

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Which of the above brake lines to your prefer? From some researching I have done: the Nickel Copper seems to be the best overall in forming to corrosion resistance, but is the most expensive. Nicopp meets DOT,SAE,ISO specs, but some have a concern of strength compared to steel. According to some real world users, Galvanized steel and Poly Armour have about the same resistance to corrosion , although mfr claims PA is better. PA is be promoted as easy to form, but I don't know if it easier than Galv Steel. Some reports that the PA coating chips off during flaring where held in the flaring clamp. I saw PA in the package where coating was chip off in the package at the parts store. That doesn't give me confidence it will last when installed.
 
Totaly go with the nicopp. Its all i use. I have repaired many brake systems with it and never had a problem.
pros:
1. Very easy to bend by hand
2. easy to get a good flare
3. I use this in ny where they salt the roads until they are white and the lines look great.

cons:
1. cost

They wouldnt sell these lines if they were going to blow apart so dont be concerned about the strength compared to steel. Maybe if you were offroading and you hit a rock with the brake line it might not be as strong as steel. Think of the upfront cost compared to only having to do the job once even if you live in the rainforest.
 
You are right to be paranoid about corrosion in the flare, coming in from the backside of the tube nut. This is where I've lost a couple lines. And the darn things don't look too bad either if you don't squint right up close.

I like poly armour for cost; it's a bunch of money from master cylinder to rear axle if you're replumbing "everything". Nicopp would the stuff to use for that eight inch span from master cylinder to divorced ABS controller OTOH.
 
I have an old Volvo (s), was concerned about brake lines, the Brickboard BB says rarely a problem as Volvo use cupro nickle brake lines so no rust. No problem on my 1987. IIRC local AAP charge between $25 and $45 for a roll with the cupro nickle being the most expensive. Not worth skimping on, IMHO.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Nicopp if you want a permanent fix. It's not just corrosion resistant... It's corrosion proof.


Not to mention super easy to bend without kinking, easy to flare, and quite easy to un-bend if needed.

If you use anything else and then later use NiCopp you will forever wonder what were you thinking.
 
Keep in mind,Jegs sells NICOP in lengths,not just rolls.So if you want a 20" piece,you wont have to buy a roll.
 
Originally Posted By: edge10
Which of the above brake lines to your prefer? From some researching I have done: the Nickel Copper seems to be the best overall in forming to corrosion resistance, but is the most expensive. Nicopp meets DOT,SAE,ISO specs, but some have a concern of strength compared to steel. According to some real world users, Galvanized steel and Poly Armour have about the same resistance to corrosion , although mfr claims PA is better. PA is be promoted as easy to form, but I don't know if it easier than Galv Steel. Some reports that the PA coating chips off during flaring where held in the flaring clamp. I saw PA in the package where coating was chip off in the package at the parts store. That doesn't give me confidence it will last when installed.


Nobody that knows a hill of beans about what they are talking about worries about the strength. The only worries I have seen are with people that use plain copper tubing.
 
I have always used steel lines. I re-plumbed the Rat with the remains of a 25' roll my BIL had. Then came the the last BMW. Double flaring is a developed skill. I split the flares a lot until I used a drop of oil on the tool. Copper nickel is new to me. If it is easier to work than steel. I plead ignorance and have developed my brake line skills from decades of replacing them. Only once have I had to replace the same brake line twice on a car. But anything that makes the job easier....
 
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