4L60e corvette servo upgrade worth it?

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Tzu

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Oct 12, 2012
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near Buffalo, NY
After a recent shift kit install that helped me out on our Impala, has anyone installed a Corvette servo on a Silverado 1500 4L60e to firm up 2-3 shifts? I've read the Corvette servo can chirp the tires if you get on it, but that would be too much for me in normal driving. Truck in question is a '00 Silverado 1500 2WD, 5.3L and 244,000 miles. Shifts pretty good, but sometimes the 2-3 shift seems a bit soft. Transmission has had 2 gals oil/filter every 50,000 miles as routine maintenance. Videos show it helps shifts but I wouldn't want it too aggressive. It looks fairly straight forward, but personal experience from others on here got me through. Any feedback is appreciated.
 
Originally Posted By: Bryankkkk
I bought one, havent put it in, I read not to do it on a tranny with so many miles, but idk.


I agree, with that many miles on the tranny I wouldn't do it.

Do about three drains and refills with MaxLife.
 
Seems like a dumb idea.
smile.gif
 
Your truck has a "553" 2nd servo piston in it now, Good all around shift quality is what it will produce if the trans is in good shape. Trying to mask an existing problem won't work long....Like a "loose" 3-4 clutch pack.

I suggest a quality rebuild before modifying a 250K 4L60E.
 
Chirping into 2nd with a 5.3? I doubt it. Now a 5.7 Vortec? I would bet money it would.
 
I'd forget about installing the servo and consider yourself fortunate that your trans has lasted as long as it has.

Routine maintenance does pay off in the long run.
 
Thanks for noting that. I was hoping it would tighten the 2-3 shifts instead. The 1-2 shift is fine right now. Thanks.
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
It doesn't do that much for a 2-3 shift. The 1-2 becomes much more aggressive.
 
Originally Posted By: Tzu
Thanks for noting that. I was hoping it would tighten the 2-3 shifts instead. The 1-2 shift is fine right now. Thanks.
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
It doesn't do that much for a 2-3 shift. The 1-2 becomes much more aggressive.




The Corvette servo's where created to fix a 2-3 shift flare in some Corvettes, And YES the 2nd servo piston affects 2-3 shift timing & firmness, The back side of the piston is used for 3rd clutch accumulation & to hold the band "OFF". Though I agree It does noticeably affect the 1-2 shift, But that is only because the 2nd Accumulator spring in the valve body is not matched to the servo size, Matching them together is rarely done because it requires removing the valve body (Trans-Go shift kits have you modify the valve body so it can be removed without messing with valve body removal)

Like I stated before....The 3-4 clutch clearance is most likely very loose, A 093 piston might mask this condition for a little while, But without matching the accumulator spring weight, Your chances of breaking the Reaction Sunshell goes way up.
 
I installed the Corvette servo in my truck about 7 years ago.

I did not notice a difference in the 1-2 shift, but it was very noticeably faster on the 2-3 shift.
 
I bought this over the winter at install ready servo assembly http://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/performance-2-4-corvette-servo-assembly-700r4-4l60e-1982-up/

It came as a complete package install ready with the upgraded Corvette servo and the D-Rings not the standard Teflons that are common. I heard this makes a big difference. Took my neighbor less then an hour to install so I gave him $25 and now my S10 tires are chirping... not really but I think I can notice a difference. Just an option in case someone doesn't want to mess with all those little parts like this old guy.
 
Ignoring the Sun Shell advice from Clinebarger is suicidal to a 4L60-E.

Some of them last a long time. They are likely stock. A few grenade early. But beef them up haphazardly and you risk the entire slushbox...
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Ignoring the Sun Shell advice from Clinebarger is suicidal to a 4L60-E.

Some of them last a long time. They are likely stock. A few grenade early. But beef them up haphazardly and you risk the entire slushbox...


Nobody cares, If they can make it better NOW, And CHEAP.....Logic is lost!
 
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Ignoring the Sun Shell advice from Clinebarger is suicidal to a 4L60-E.

Some of them last a long time. They are likely stock. A few grenade early. But beef them up haphazardly and you risk the entire slushbox...


Nobody cares, If they can make it better NOW, And CHEAP.....Logic is lost!


I can't tell you how many of my old Drag buds ruined those things in Impala SS's at the strip. Yet I had one and it ran almost forever. I eventually pulled it and had it updated/rebuilt and put in a nice converter.

My son has a Suburban with over 180k miles on the original 4L60-E. It's weird how some of them don't break easily...
 
I build them for a living & don't have a full explanation, I have seen some go 300K plus, Some go 50K and die.

My theory on the Sun Shell is, At first GM made them to hard, And flexing at the Splines would fatigue the metal, Then they Updated it to softer steel....Then the Splines would strip clean off. Sonnax has a "Smart Shell" that 100% fixes this issue.

The 3-4 Clutches burning down is the next common failure, On high mileage units...The hydraulic integrity (Poor line pressure rise)of the unit degrades over time & the 3-4's are the first thing to go.
Of course a leak in the 3-4 apply circuit will cause it to.

On good/low mileage units that burn down 3-4's for no "apparent" reason is generally caused by the Human driving it.

The 3-4's can only handle so many repetitious on/off cycles before they get REALLY hot. I'm sure you have seen the guys that get up in high gear, Then Stomp on it...Forcing a 4-2 downshift & let it up shift at WOT into 3rd & 4th. Then repeat this over & over, The Clutch Pack cannot cool down!

I tell customers that drive like that "You need a 4L80E Or you need learn that 4L60E's have a "duty cycle" & drive them accordingly.
 
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