Need some help picking brake pads

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Follow up post...
2014 Accord EX-L. Brakes have been so so since new, and even with gentle highway driving, I've got a nice pulsing going on at 18k miles. The dealer will turn the rotors, which I am not interested in. So, I'm really considering going with new pads/rotors in the front. I'm pretty much set on Centric rotors, unless someone has a better/comparable option. Certainly open to that.

For pads, here is what I am considering:
-Raybestos EHT
-AAP Wearever Platinum - Nice price here with coupon
-NAPA Adaptive One - A bit pricey and not sure they are worth it

I would look at Akebono, but I can't seem to find a part number. If you can, I would love it.

Any insight is appreciated as I try to finalize my decisions and get this done.

Brett
 
Nothing wrong with turning the rotors. Are you doing the work yourself? You could have them turn the rotors and then immediately put your new pads on.

I have Centrics solid middle of the line rotors on my Corolla and they've been great for 15K miles.

I choose only FF and above (GG) FMSI rated pads, leave the EE/EF/FE junk for others.

The two most important things about new brakes is runout and break-in. If a shop is doing the work ask for the runout numbers and watch and see if they use a dial indicator as part of the job. The greatest pad/rotor combo in the world won't help if you have a few hard complete stops very early in their life.
 
Originally Posted By: BTLew81
Follow up post...
2014 Accord EX-L. Brakes have been so so since new, and even with gentle highway driving, I've got a nice pulsing going on at 18k miles. The dealer will turn the rotors, which I am not interested in. So, I'm really considering going with new pads/rotors in the front. I'm pretty much set on Centric rotors, unless someone has a better/comparable option. Certainly open to that.

For pads, here is what I am considering:
-Raybestos EHT
-AAP Wearever Platinum - Nice price here with coupon
-NAPA Adaptive One - A bit pricey and not sure they are worth it

I would look at Akebono, but I can't seem to find a part number. If you can, I would love it.

Any insight is appreciated as I try to finalize my decisions and get this done.

Brett

Personally, I would not choose any of those.
What is your priority? Braking? or low dust, low noise?
If your priority is maximum braking (like it is mine) I would go to www.autoanything.com and get EBC Green stuff (mildly upgraded), Red Stuff (Street Performance) or Yellow Stuff (Track). I have now yellow stuff, they are fantastic, stop on a dime. However, it does produce huge amount of dust (do not care) and some noise.
Red Stuff (i had them before) is probably best compromise.
However, these pads like high carbon rotors such as Brembo, EBC, Hawk..
 
You're chasing a ghost here.

The pulsing you're feeling is a warped rotor, caused either by excessive heat...your style of braking..and sometimes, a new rotor isn't perfectly true, and over time that can become magnified, which could cause the pulsing. The pads themselves aren't the cause, nor is the brand of rotor. You can verify this by going to a Honda forum and asking.

Unless the pads are shot, then the dealer is correct in turning the rotors. In the future, it's always a good idea to trim new rotors before installation to remove any high spots.
 
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Have the dealer turn the rotors, than go home and change the pads. The OE rotors are decent and I would run them and not change them so early.

I just bought Centric rotors and Akebono pads for my Acura but I haven't installed them yet. The prior Wagner pads are garbage.
 
Originally Posted By: Noey
You're chasing a ghost here.

The pulsing you're feeling is a warped rotor, caused either by excessive heat...your style of braking..and sometimes, a new rotor isn't perfectly true, and over time that can become magnified, which could cause the pulsing.


Probably not a 'warped rotor' caused by 'excessive heat'. It may have been eccentric to begin with, or caused by poor break-in, but the warped rotor thing caused by excessive heating is really a myth.

The pulsation feeling is caused by excessive uneven friction material build-up on the rotor. That build-up may be on the high spot of an eccentric, or eccentrically mounted rotor, or it may be due to pad imprinting when coming to a full stop with very hot brakes.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3043065/warped_brake_disc_and_other_my

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
 
You turn the rotors, you reduce the mass. Reduced mass means reduced braking effectiveness.

If you go this route, be very sure the lathe man knows his stuff and removes the bare minimum.

I gave up rotor turning years ago and so have many brake shops.
 
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New rotors and EBC Red Stuff...

Today's rotors are thin, usually can't be turned.

Get coated rotors, they will be black. The coating will come off where the pad hits the rotor, but the rest will remain...
 
Before slapping any new parts I would simply take the car out on some empty stretch of road and perform about 10-20 progressively more aggressive braking events, coming to an almost complete stop and giving a minute or two of driving to let the brakes cool down a bit. The last few stops should be on the threshold of locking up the wheels or engaging the ABS and you should be able to smell the brake pads.
This worked for me on my Mazda 3 and the old Ford Focus. This cured the slight, but very noticeable brake pedal pulsation when stopping/slowing down from highway speeds several times already.

If the pulsation still remains, I would then start changing parts.
 
Originally Posted By: user52165
You turn the rotors, you reduce the mass.

True. A very little bit, but true.
Originally Posted By: user52165
Reduced mass means reduced braking effectiveness.

Prove it!

Less rotating mass means less energy to get rid off. A lighter rotor comes up to temp faster. A lighter rotor also cools faster. The only downside is the total latent heat capacity is lower.

And all in all, since very little material is being removed, it really doesn't matter.
 
Originally Posted By: HangFire

Less rotating mass means less energy to get rid off. A lighter rotor comes up to temp faster. A lighter rotor also cools faster. The only downside is the total latent heat capacity is lower.


If you want to get technical, the rotor mass has little effect on stopping power because the rotor is not stopping itself, but instead is converting the kinetic energy the whole vehicle accumulates into heat. But where it is important is in the reserve capacity, meaning, how many full force events can the rotor take before overheating. That's where bigger and heavier rotors shine. Stopping power (the distance it takes to stop the car) is mainly dependent on pad material, surface area, system pressure and of course tires.

Originally Posted By: HangFire

And all in all, since very little material is being removed, it really doesn't matter.


That's certainly is the case. The whole mass thing is simply blown out of proportion by the internet experts.
 
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EBC Redstuff, best pads I have ever installed. I paired them with raybestos advanced technology rotors, perfect combo for daily driving.
 
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Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: BTLew81
Follow up post...
2014 Accord EX-L. Brakes have been so so since new, and even with gentle highway driving, I've got a nice pulsing going on at 18k miles. The dealer will turn the rotors, which I am not interested in. So, I'm really considering going with new pads/rotors in the front. I'm pretty much set on Centric rotors, unless someone has a better/comparable option. Certainly open to that.

For pads, here is what I am considering:
-Raybestos EHT
-AAP Wearever Platinum - Nice price here with coupon
-NAPA Adaptive One - A bit pricey and not sure they are worth it

I would look at Akebono, but I can't seem to find a part number. If you can, I would love it.

Any insight is appreciated as I try to finalize my decisions and get this done.

Brett

Personally, I would not choose any of those.
What is your priority? Braking? or low dust, low noise?
If your priority is maximum braking (like it is mine) I would go to www.autoanything.com and get EBC Green stuff (mildly upgraded), Red Stuff (Street Performance) or Yellow Stuff (Track). I have now yellow stuff, they are fantastic, stop on a dime. However, it does produce huge amount of dust (do not care) and some noise.
Red Stuff (i had them before) is probably best compromise.
However, these pads like high carbon rotors such as Brembo, EBC, Hawk..
+1 EBC
 
Originally Posted By: BTLew81
Follow up post...
2014 Accord EX-L. Brakes have been so so since new, and even with gentle highway driving, I've got a nice pulsing going on at 18k miles. The dealer will turn the rotors, which I am not interested in. So, I'm really considering going with new pads/rotors in the front. I'm pretty much set on Centric rotors, unless someone has a better/comparable option. Certainly open to that.

For pads, here is what I am considering:
-Raybestos EHT
-AAP Wearever Platinum - Nice price here with coupon
-NAPA Adaptive One - A bit pricey and not sure they are worth it

I would look at Akebono, but I can't seem to find a part number. If you can, I would love it.

Any insight is appreciated as I try to finalize my decisions and get this done.

Brett


RockAuto does not have the Akebono for your vehicle?
 
Thanks for the feedback. Against some of you, I will eventually be replacing the pads and rotors. Perhaps stupid, but I am going to go this route.

As far as the pads. Doesn't look like Akenbono pads are available for the fronts, which I am replacing. I like the EBC suggestion and will consider it, but I am really looking at the following:

Wearever plat, Raybestos EHT, Napa Adaptive One, and perhaps Wagner TQ. Maybe AZ Duralast should be in here too?

Thanks again
 
Originally Posted By: BTLew81
Thanks for the feedback. Against some of you, I will eventually be replacing the pads and rotors. Perhaps stupid, but I am going to go this route.

As far as the pads. Doesn't look like Akenbono pads are available for the fronts, which I am replacing. I like the EBC suggestion and will consider it, but I am really looking at the following:

Wearever plat, Raybestos EHT, Napa Adaptive One, and perhaps Wagner TQ. Maybe AZ Duralast should be in here too?

Thanks again

Here is my take:
1. I would go with both new pads and new rotors.
2. Change braking fluid also.
3. Get pads and rotors from companies that are known in business as best. If you want superb braking, get EBC redstuff pads (almost no dust and noise, but much better then OEM) and EBC Ultimax rotors. If you go for no dust whatsoever and longevity but also OEM braking, go with EBC Ultimax rotors (not slotted ones) and Akebono pads. Now, I personally do not like Akebono, but then I do not like anything that is not built for track and race.
Pads in AZ or AA etc, I would avoid. I know they are cheaper, but there is a reason for that!
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: BTLew81
Follow up post...
2014 Accord EX-L. Brakes have been so so since new, and even with gentle highway driving, I've got a nice pulsing going on at 18k miles. The dealer will turn the rotors, which I am not interested in. So, I'm really considering going with new pads/rotors in the front. I'm pretty much set on Centric rotors, unless someone has a better/comparable option. Certainly open to that.

For pads, here is what I am considering:
-Raybestos EHT
-AAP Wearever Platinum - Nice price here with coupon
-NAPA Adaptive One - A bit pricey and not sure they are worth it

I would look at Akebono, but I can't seem to find a part number. If you can, I would love it.

Any insight is appreciated as I try to finalize my decisions and get this done.

Brett


RockAuto does not have the Akebono for your vehicle?


Cannot find them for the fronts. If you can, I would love it! lol
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Before slapping any new parts I would simply take the car out on some empty stretch of road and perform about 10-20 progressively more aggressive braking events, coming to an almost complete stop and giving a minute or two of driving to let the brakes cool down a bit. The last few stops should be on the threshold of locking up the wheels or engaging the ABS and you should be able to smell the brake pads.
This worked for me on my Mazda 3 and the old Ford Focus. This cured the slight, but very noticeable brake pedal pulsation when stopping/slowing down from highway speeds several times already.

If the pulsation still remains, I would then start changing parts.


I would do this first, also.

If it doesn't work, let them turn the OEM rotors, and put on your own pads, only if they don't change them.


Its a 2014 - let the dealer do some of the work!
 
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