CV boot slinging grease

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A few of the boots on our 2005 Acura MDX are slinging grease. It has 120k miles on it now, but they've been slinging grease for years. It's not a lot...but you can see the darker residue on the wheel well where it stays moist.

Is there anything I can do to slow/stop this slinging, short of a boot kit or replacing the whole shaft assembly? I don't think I'd have much success with a boot kit. Right now, my working opinion is that I'll let it go until one of the joints starts clicking and I have to replace it...sort of a "don't fix it 'till it's broke" kind of plan.

What say the experts? Let it go...or is there some preventative action I can take to prolong complete shaft replacement? I'm wondering if one can simply replace the clamps on the boots. On the ones that are slinging, it's always the small end of the boot.
 
Are the boots split? I would NOT expect a 2005 to have split boots.

It's not uncommon for the small end clamp to seep a bit, but for the joint to be "slinging grease" suggests a split boot or a clamp that's severely loose.

Here's an easy way to check:
-- Turn the steering wheel ALL the way to the LEFT.
-- Walk to the front of the car, just in front on the front left wheel, and peek inside the wheel well.
-- Study the boot. If there are splits, they will be pulled open by the steering angle and will be really obvious.
-- Repeat in opposite for other side.
 
One of the boots on my 91 bmw has done this for a while, and it's at 24 years and 175k miles.

Stop it/slow it? I look at it as a feature to put some oil underneath. I've always figured it's some of the liquid separating from the grease in the boot.

If there's no noise, no tears, no slinging on the paint, I'd not worry about it and just keep tabs.
 
No, the boots are not split. It's coming out of the end of the boot. The grease slings to the underbody due to centrifugal force. This is not my picture, but the clamp areas on mine looks identical:

35480d1261438715-cv-boot-leaking-bootleak22.jpeg


The grease seems like it's "oozing" past the clamp, then getting slung to the underbody.

Ironically, that's a picture of a Pilot (identical drivetrain). This seems common to that era of Honda/Acura. Some people have replaced the clamps with the proper clamp. Some have used hose clamps. Maybe I should invest in the correct clamp and clamp pliers.
 
I have a boot that tore right at the same small end at the clamp. I have been living with it for five years.It slings little grease. Once a year, I loosen the large clamp and slide the boot down and repack it with cv grease. I do not lose much grease, there is no grit inside and the joint operates quietly.
 
Either new boot, or TBH I find it easier to go to the autoparts store and get a whole new axle. They're not all that expensive and lots of them come with a lifetime warranty
 
Is it outer boot or inner boot that flings grease from the shaft side of the boot?

If it's the inner side, granted that the outer boot is still in good shape, I'd go get a new boot clamp, burp the inner boot (to balance the pressure, wipe off the grease, and then re-clamp it.

Typically takes me a few mins and a few dollars to do that.

If the outer boot is on it's way out, then resort to repacking both inner and outer boot with new boots and then carefully follow the procedures to burp the boots.

I don't resort to using reman CV shaft unless my (a) the original CV joint is excessively worn out of spec, and/or (b) the replacement outer joint is not readily available/excessively expensive.

Original CV shaft and joints can last a surprising number of years and miles, and still show very little wear.

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
No, the boots are not split. It's coming out of the end of the boot. The grease slings to the underbody due to centrifugal force. This is not my picture, but the clamp areas on mine looks identical:

If that's the case, then just replace the band with a new one. You will need the kind that is a straight strip, to be formed into a circle, tightened with a tool, and with little tabs that you fold over after tightening.

The question is how much grease you've lost. If only a little, then just re-band it and leave it. The joint may always seep a bit after this on account of the grease under the band, but there's no harm in that.
 
Originally Posted By: Tegger


The question is how much grease you've lost. If only a little, then just re-band it and leave it. The joint may always seep a bit after this on account of the grease under the band, but there's no harm in that.


IMO typically the grease within a joint is over 100gms or more (around 180gms approx.), but may have lost 30gms or similar.

Unlike the old style of joint repacking of MB (where we have to get a weigh scale to weigh the proper amount of CV grease before packing it in), I personally do not worry about up to 20% of grease loss through that inner CV boot to shaft part.

So long as the inner lip on the CV boot to shaft part is intact and not damaged, proper burping of the inner boot pressure and then install in new clamp should fix the problem once and for all (until next time the boot/outer CV joint/boot ripped, etc.)

I'm typically more concern about debris and moisture (from major ripped boots) getting into the joint accelerating the joint's wear, than worring about a slight bit of grease loss.

Q.
 
I had the same thing happen to my Buick, but instead of slinging grease from the small clamp, it was slinging grease from the large clamp on the other end. There was too much grease being splattered everywhere and I couldn't stand it no more. I replaced the axles.
 
I'd just leave it alone until the joint starts clicking, which could take years to happen.
 
I was going to suggest a new boot until I saw the picture..

All it needs is a hose clip.
It's quick and cheap and easy, it'll make the joint last a lot longer (because if grease can get out, moisture and grit can get in) and it saves the time and money you'd waste on replacing the whole driveshaft and both joints if you let it get worse..

Anyways, why would you replace the inner cv or the driveshaft if they're both good? It's not difficult to do an outer cv, and it's even easier to tighten a hose clip round a boot, makes me wonder why you'd consider replacing the whole thing for one joint? Would you replace the whole steering column if the UJ went bad?
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
At that mileage I would just get a new axle. They do wear out internally over time anyway.


Perhaps the worse advice ever.


You can put on new clamps to give it a better seal. My 01 integra does this to a small degree and i just added two zip ties over the original clamp to seal it better. It's working so far.
 
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
At that mileage I would just get a new axle. They do wear out internally over time anyway.


Perhaps the worse advice ever.


You can put on new clamps to give it a better seal. My 01 integra does this to a small degree and i just added two zip ties over the original clamp to seal it better. It's working so far.


Not sure about MDX, but my Integra's axle lasted 250k miles, so 120k is a bit early.

Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
or TBH I find it easier to go to the autoparts store and get a whole new axle. They're not all that expensive and lots of them come with a lifetime warranty


Worst advice ever. The autoparts store axles are usually not that great in quality and would likely last not as long as leaving the existing axles in place.

If the boots aren't torn, why not just keep using it and fix the crimp that leak grease out at the end?
 
Buy a grease needle and re-grease the joint the needle is small and the hole goes away. It is a sharp with a zerk on it. I have plenty of spare 1/2 shafts for my BMW, so I don't anything with a leaky CVJ but swap it for a better one. I do use the needle to grease ball joints and tie rod ends.
grin2.gif
 
Thanks to all. As I recall, it's the small side end of the inner boot. I think both front sides do it. I'll have to re-verify...I rotate the tires in 800 miles on it, and I'll check then. I think I may go ahead and get new bands and the tool and re-band the boots. The boots themselves look okay, and the axles are still quiet.

I have worked in a retail parts store, and would not use an aftermarket axle assembly.
 
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