Pennzoil Platinum with PurePlus Technology Q&A

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Originally Posted By: tdi jerry
Originally Posted By: Concours14
Hey Mola..

The claim is compared against the "toughest API standard" at 65%. The 40 or 45% claim is against the original GroupIII+ (except it isn't, so they said) Platinum. Years ago here, the rage was that Dino Syns (Valvoline and a few others) in GroupIII wasn't really a syn, it was just severely hydrocracked cracked Dino and many folks were really angry that they were allowed to be called "Synthetic". I also remember folks returning the same OA results from the GroupII High-Moly Havoline as the "GroupIII" Hydro-Cracked "Synthetics" from Castro and Valvoline. Group 4 was something else again (M-1 before they went GroupIII Dino, admitted only under great duress by the folks here if I recall). Group 5 base oils were to be the holy grail, gas-to-liquid pure base stocks. Now they're erasing the GroupIII and III+ as if it never even happened? Ah well. Interesting reads. The ebb and flow of opinion, UOA and gobbledygook from the oil companies makes your head spin if you watch and read. It's all good.

As for extended drains, they make VERY clear that Shell doesn't set drain intervals. We as owners do that per the manufacturer and of course, our own whims. Clean? Not sure how we're to tell without dismantling the engine. I suppose if the varnish disappears from the dipstick and also whatever varnish you can see from the fill-hole, the Ultra, absent a tear down, is an engine scrubber.

Meanwhile, the miracle of gas-to-liquid finally came to pass. Use with confidence, as they say. Except I probably won't bother with my 2004 2.5 Subaru 4, because in the end, a Wix and 7500 mile drain intervals on dino is honestly, good enough.

Anyone have a case of Dino Havoline 5W-20 in SL or SM in their stash they wanna sell?
So Mobil-1 is now group 3 then what is the best on the market these days ? Is the Platinum extra the best on the market now ?




Best.

Tough to say.
Firstly that guy up there is clueless. Since Mobil doesn't tell anyone the percentage of pao/ester and hydro cracked basestock in their formulas no one here has any real data saying one way or the other.
Mobil uses what's called "visom" and it's a mixture of various basestocks. We've seen posted here at BITOG that AFE could be as high as 30% pao and the EP line is even more concentrated.
As many here know I'm not an m1 fan at all but that doesn't mean they don't make a great product.
So sir to answer your question about best I would need to know how you drive,if cost of oil is a factor and what oci your after.
Because depending on how you answer "best" could be different.
I buy name brand syns on sale. That's "best" for me because I pay less than regular priced conventional and run a 10000 mile interval.
For my charger I thicken the oil load up with 0w-40 in the summer because I beat on it often.
So that's what best for me. Best overall would have to take in to consideration a persons variables,so what's best for me may not be best for you.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I
Originally Posted By: tdi jerry
Originally Posted By: Concours14
Hey Mola..

The claim is compared against the "toughest API standard" at 65%. The 40 or 45% claim is against the original GroupIII+ (except it isn't, so they said) Platinum. Years ago here, the rage was that Dino Syns (Valvoline and a few others) in GroupIII wasn't really a syn, it was just severely hydrocracked cracked Dino and many folks were really angry that they were allowed to be called "Synthetic". I also remember folks returning the same OA results from the GroupII High-Moly Havoline as the "GroupIII" Hydro-Cracked "Synthetics" from Castro and Valvoline. Group 4 was something else again (M-1 before they went GroupIII Dino, admitted only under great duress by the folks here if I recall). Group 5 base oils were to be the holy grail, gas-to-liquid pure base stocks. Now they're erasing the GroupIII and III+ as if it never even happened? Ah well. Interesting reads. The ebb and flow of opinion, UOA and gobbledygook from the oil companies makes your head spin if you watch and read. It's all good.

As for extended drains, they make VERY clear that Shell doesn't set drain intervals. We as owners do that per the manufacturer and of course, our own whims. Clean? Not sure how we're to tell without dismantling the engine. I suppose if the varnish disappears from the dipstick and also whatever varnish you can see from the fill-hole, the Ultra, absent a tear down, is an engine scrubber.

Meanwhile, the miracle of gas-to-liquid finally came to pass. Use with confidence, as they say. Except I probably won't bother with my 2004 2.5 Subaru 4, because in the end, a Wix and 7500 mile drain intervals on dino is honestly, good enough.

Anyone have a case of Dino Havoline 5W-20 in SL or SM in their stash they wanna sell?
So Mobil-1 is now group 3 then what is the best on the market these days ? Is the Platinum extra the best on the market now ?




Best.

Tough to say.
Firstly that guy up there is clueless. Since Mobil doesn't tell anyone the percentage of pao/ester and hydro cracked basestock in their formulas no one here has any real data saying one way or the other.
Mobil uses what's called "visom" and it's a mixture of various basestocks. We've seen posted here at BITOG that AFE could be as high as 30% pao and the EP line is even more concentrated.
As many here know I'm not an m1 fan at all but that doesn't mean they don't make a great product.
So sir to answer your question about best I would need to know how you drive,if cost of oil is a factor and what oci your after.
Because depending on how you answer "best" could be different.
I buy name brand syns on sale. That's "best" for me because I pay less than regular priced conventional and run a 10000 mile interval.
For my charger I thicken the oil load up with 0w-40 in the summer because I beat on it often.
So that's what best for me. Best overall would have to take in to consideration a persons variables,so what's best for me may not be best for you.


Actually, you can find the PAO % in Mobil products by looking at the MSDS for each product for the % of "1-Decene...". In many Mobil1 products, this component is in the 20% range, but it's higher in the 0w-20/30 viscosities. In fact, Mobil1 EP 0w-20 contains 60-70% PAO.

Not saying this makes M1 products the "best", but the PAO is in there for a reason.
 
For you Canadians, Napa has PP 5w30 for $26.99

http://www.flyertown.ca/flyers/napaautoparts-flyer?type=1&locale=en&postal_code=m6b2c1&store_code=0143#!/flyers/napaautoparts-flyer?flyer_run_id=18219
 
Originally Posted By: Lex94
Yup...The Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 10w30 is excellent.

You can get PUP 5w20 and 10w30 (3ea 5qt jugs - 15qts) delivered to your front door from Amazon for about $90. The Unopened version.


This is how I finally managed to obtain the PUP in 5w20. I won't shop for oil any other way now, as this is not only ultra-convenient, it is also far less expensive.
 
I have a 1998 ford escort with 185,000 miles on it and used penzoil platinum 10W30 in the winter time and it worked fine. It is now time to change it again so I went to autozone to get some 10W40 this time because I was told 10W40 would be better for summer use, but unfortunately they didn't have any 10W40 so I ended up with 10W30 again.

I don't really understand the oils that well yet but they also had 5W40. Will the 10W30 be fine or would the 5W40 be better for it with the high miles?
 
Originally Posted By: mash4077
I have a 1998 ford escort with 185,000 miles on it and used penzoil platinum 10W30 in the winter time and it worked fine. It is now time to change it again so I went to autozone to get some 10W40 this time because I was told 10W40 would be better for summer use, but unfortunately they didn't have any 10W40 so I ended up with 10W30 again.

I don't really understand the oils that well yet but they also had 5W40. Will the 10W30 be fine or would the 5W40 be better for it with the high miles?






Anybody??
 
Originally Posted By: mash4077
I have a 1998 ford escort with 185,000 miles on it and used penzoil platinum 10W30 in the winter time and it worked fine. It is now time to change it again so I went to autozone to get some 10W40 this time because I was told 10W40 would be better for summer use, but unfortunately they didn't have any 10W40 so I ended up with 10W30 again.

I don't really understand the oils that well yet but they also had 5W40. Will the 10W30 be fine or would the 5W40 be better for it with the high miles?


I would stick with the 10/30 platinum. I use 10/30 M1 HM in my truck and it is doing great. It does get hot in Louisiana. If I was not using the M1 I would be using the platinum. I do 10k oil change intervals. What does the owners manual call for?
 
I've noticed after 20k miles with short OCIs with M1 5w20 in our '12 Pilot switching over to PP 0w20, the oil is very clean

Like it a lot
 
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I have 2 qts of the ultra and 2 qts of the platinum both 5w40. Do you guys think I should mix them for my next oil change?
 
Hi Mash4077- In our opinion, if it isn't broke don’t fix it! Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 Full Synthetic motor oil is a fantastic motor oil, and since it is working for you we would recommend staying with it! In fact, since it's a full synthetic motor oil, it will provide excellent protection in both extreme hot and cold climates. Also, we do not recommend putting a thicker weight oil in your engine, this could cause performance issues. - The Pennzoil Team
 
Regarding PP Euro 5w40 with PurePlus: is it full, mid or low saps? I've been unable to find any information about this. If not, would it be good to run on a DI motor with 10k oci's?

Currently, with my gen 3 ea888 di vw, I'm running PU Euro L 5w30 with 5k oci's. I'll be doing my first UOA in a few weeks to see how the car likes it. However, switching to a mid-saps with factory recommended 10k oci's would be ideal, if it will also help slow down the carbon buildup. I'm a 50/50 highway city driver and my driving style is average compared to other commuters in my area.
 
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Originally Posted By: VR6OOM
Regarding PP Euro 5w40 with PurePlus: is it full, mid or low saps? I've been unable to find any information about this. If not, would it be good to run on a DI motor with 10k oci's?

Currently, with my gen 3 ea888 di vw, I'm running PU Euro L 5w30 with 5k oci's. I'll be doing my first UOA in a few weeks to see how the car likes it. However, switching to a mid-saps with factory recommended 10k oci's would be ideal, if it will also help slow down the carbon buildup. I'm a 50/50 highway city driver and my driving style is average compared to other commuters in my area.


From what I've been able to tell they don't provide any information on Ash or Phosphorus. Their marketing answer in the Q&A was useless [censored]. The oil doesn't meet any low sap certifications like ACEA C3, MB, DexOs2, etc.

Their oil is worthless for North American users with medium/low SAP requirements. If you're anywhere else in the world there are tons of low SAP oils to pick from.
 
10w30 will be fine. If you're seeing a lot of consumption you can try a HM oil or move up a grade.

Xw40 is rarely needed in a passenger car or light truck. There are some applications where it's a good idea, like heavy towing, or autocrossing. For the daily driver 5 or 10w30 is great.
 
Originally Posted By: flash_os
Guys, have you had tried to reveal what behind that PurePlus Technology Patent?

What are you looking to find out? From a general interest perspective, there are some descriptions of the process all over the web. More would likely be learned in a chemical engineering class, which is getting rather technical. Beyond that, I'm sure most of the patent information and proprietary would be of little interest to anyone outside of the competition.
 
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