HGMO vs. M1 AFE 0W20

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Hello folks and happy new year! So say for instance I am able to get 5 quarts of HGMO (in bottles) for the same price as a 5 qt jug of M1 AFE, which would you use? The vehicle in question is a '14 CRV. Trouble is, the engine likes consuming M1 at about 1/2 quart per thousand miles. Never did that on the factory fill, which is the Honda synthetic blend. Just trying to weigh my options as 1/2 quart per 1k is IMO too much for a new engine.
 
I would try the HGMO since FF didnt burn at all.
From zero to that much is definitely odd, no leaks?
 
You could try going back to the Honda branded oil- but no change in brand should make that sort of difference. Something mechanical has failed, IMO.
 
All things being equal I'd go with the AFE...but in this case all things aren't equal so I'd use whatever oil didn't cause consumption....do some experimenting with various oils to make your decision.
 
No leaks. Replaced the crush washer at the oil change and tightened to 29 ft lbs.
 
Go to the Pennzoil and Quaker State sites and register your new vehicle for their respective "engine warranty" programs.
This will give you twenty dollar MIRs on QSUD and PP, so you can try both of these cheaply and see whether consumption is reduced.
API SN HGMO doesn't look to be anything special.
The consumption that you're seeing may simply be the result of the engine not yet being fully broken in and may be a passing thing.
 
Not that unusual when introducing M1 to an engine, you'll find lots of similar posts here although I find it a bit odd at such low mileage. Most likely with continued use it will taper off.

Nothing wrong with the Honda blend, it's a 66 product and a fine oil in it's own right although I'm not sure it is worth the same price point as M1.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
API SN HGMO doesn't look to be anything special.

I would agree wih this statement.

Once upon a time, a fair amount of work was done on HG including both semi and full Syn. My memory may be faulty but I recall the stand out difference in a standard VOA being about a point and a half of TBN.

I went on to use and test three loads of full Syn SN in our 2011 V6 Accord. I ended up switching to SM TGMO which performed better in terms of longevity and I wanted the high moly for that engine.
 
I just want to throw this out there. I have owned 3 CR-V's. Current one is /13 AWD. The manual recommends 4.4L oil with a filter change but that no where gets it to the full mark. I found it is actually 4.8L. Just make sure that you are actually filling with the proper amount.
 
Hmm, that's interesting. When I filled it up, I put .25 quarts in the filter, screwed it on, and then put 4 quarts through the fill hole on top. When I let it run and then checked it 10 mins later it sat right at the proper level. I will check next time I drain it.
 
I've seen lots of reports of M1 burning a bit over the first 1-2 changes but it always goes away after the 3rd change at the latest. HGMO isn't anything special, if this new engine continues to burn M1 then there must be a leak somewhere. Could be the intake valve seals.
 
Engine is still breaking in. I wouldn't worry about it until the piston rings are seated after 12 - 15,000 miles.

AFE might be more of a full synthetic than HGMO and EP certaily is.
 
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