Need some Oil help 2015 Hyundia Veloster TGDI

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OP, dont take this personally, but you are over thinking it. If all it requires is a 5w30 SM GF4, then its safe to say synthetic isn't even necessary. I can understand wanting a quality synthetic in a turbo application though. M1 5w30 or whatever you can get your hands on for cheaper will work just fine for you.

Follow the owners manual at either the normal or severe oil change interval recommendation depending on how you drive and enjoy your new toy.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Quote:
One of the main areas there was no improvement in wear protection. Imagine that the OEM’s still want their cars engines to wear out so you will buy a new vehicle.


This is a ridiculous statement. Do we really have a massive problem with cars being junked because their engines wore out?



Everyone has an opinion I guess.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
OP, dont take this personally, but you are over thinking it. If all it requires is a 5w30 SM GF4, then its safe to say synthetic isn't even necessary.

The OM has some rather wishy-washy wording, so I understand the OP's confusion and concern. Do they really want an A5/B5 lube? Or do they want something like a 5w-40? Or, is an ordinary, conventional ILSAC rated 5w-30 good enough for warranty purposes? Or, are all three options acceptable?
 
i thought hyundai called for 5w20 on that but they might also list 5w30 or 10w30 in the summer but im not 100% sure. I am sure that Hyundai and others also can give you problems with the warranty if the oil spec is not what they say to use but they will have to do a lot of proving in court and would probably lose but how long will that take?
 
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Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
OP, dont take this personally, but you are over thinking it. If all it requires is a 5w30 SM GF4, then its safe to say synthetic isn't even necessary.

The OM has some rather wishy-washy wording, so I understand the OP's confusion and concern. Do they really want an A5/B5 lube? Or do they want something like a 5w-40? Or, is an ordinary, conventional ILSAC rated 5w-30 good enough for warranty purposes? Or, are all three options acceptable?


Sorry OP I missed this.

If an A5 is needed, it sounds like M1 0w40 is the cheapest candidate for the job. Walmart has it for $25.xx a jug. I too would have asked the dealer what they would use.

* I just checked my M1 0w30 stash. That will also meet your required spec and should be around the same $$$ at WM.
 
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Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i thought hyundai called for 5w20 on that but they might also list 5w30 or 10w30 in the summer but im not 100% sure. I am sure that Hyundai and others also can give you problems with the warranty if the oil spec is not what they say to use but they will have to do a lot of proving in court and would probably lose but how long will that take?


The naturally aspirated Hyundai's call for 5w20, but OM says the other mentioned weights can be used if 5w20 isn't available in your country. It gives a chart on what to use at what temperatures. I believe 20w50 can be used in my moms Elantra too. Lol.

*Translation.. Use whatever! I have 4 jugs of 5w30 synblend that her car will love. It currently has a frankenbrew of PP, M1, QSGB and PYB and a 2x Fram Ultra with around 12k at the moment.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
If an A5 is needed, it sounds like M1 0w40 is the cheapest candidate for the job.

M1 0w-40 does not meet ACEA A5 because it meets ACEA A3 already. The same oil cannot meet both specs as they have conflicting requirements. Pick one.
 
I don't understand the confusion. The owners manual says that Hyundai recommends Quaker State oil.....
 
It's easy to overthink these things...I do it all the time. The best advice I can give is not to overthink it (that's easy for me to give that advice because I'm not talking about myself).

I'd just go with the Mobile 1 - it's a good oil, it's reasonable, it's easy to get and it will do the job easily in your car. Plus you've been using it for years...no need to stop now.

Take an oil like Penzoil Ultra...yeah it's supposed to have everything but the kitchen sink in it, but can you find it in stores? Nope. And if you order it online it will cost you quite a bit more than the Mobil 1 you can find at Walmart. I can get EP Mobile 1 in a five quart jug for $28. If I try to get the Penzoil on Amazon it's like $40 for 6 quarts...maybe more, I'll have to check.
 
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
If an A5 is needed, it sounds like M1 0w40 is the cheapest candidate for the job.

M1 0w-40 does not meet ACEA A5 because it meets ACEA A3 already. The same oil cannot meet both specs as they have conflicting requirements. Pick one.


Never mind then. I misread a previous post.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I don't understand the confusion. The owners manual says that Hyundai recommends Quaker State oil.....


And Shell Helix
smile.gif
 
I owned a Nissan Juke, DI and turbo charged. I put in 5w-30 semi-synthetic immediately after breakin. It turned it into a 20 weight in 2000 miles. I put in QSUD 5w-30 next and it turned into a 20 weight in 2000 miles. I put in 10w-30 Ultra in the hopes it would keep its weight better, and it turned it into a 20 weight after a single 3000 mile road trip in summer. Next up I would probably have gone to GC 0w-30, and after that some form of European 5w-40. No fuel dilution issues, but it was my first DI and turbocharged motor and it just made me wonder if other similar motors would suffer this in the "light is right" environment in the States.

I would change it early and see how well it stays in grade, regardless of type. And if it stays in grade, great, lengthen intervals until it doesn't, or you bump into your OCI comfort zone. And if it doesn't, I'd begin moving up the oil weight grade scale from light to heavy, normal to synthetic, until you achieve that happy-happy joy-joy point between oil changing frequency and keeping oil performance in grade.
 
Even with dilution, wear numbers on UOA haven't shown more wear metals.
 
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Originally Posted By: wemay
Even with dilution, wear numbers on UOA haven't shown more wear metals.


Yep, we've been over this before.

Despite the fuel dilution in modern higher performing engines there is little evidence that it hurts anything...
 
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