Weird Observation with new Spark Plug

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The explanation make perfect sense....that the new plug is attempting to burn off all the extra oil and fuel in that cylinder so it takes a minutes for it to "heal" itself.

As far as me addressing the oil burning cylinder....I'm just not going to do it.

I really lack the experience to change the valve seals, and because it's just one cylinder (Cylinder #1, driver's side, closest to the radiator), I kinda doubt it's a valve seal.

My buddy recently replaced the intake gasket and he's successfully done a few hundreds of these, so I doubt he screwed that up.

It could be a worn valve guide, and I'm not pulling the heads off this engine to fix it. Not worth it. It could also be a broken ring, and I'm also not pulling the heads off to fix that either. This is an old engine with 200k miles on it. A new GM crate engine for this truck is about $1600. When the engine dies, I'll probably replace the engine with one of these OEM crate assemblies.
 
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Oh, I forgot to add, and I ran outta time to edit....

But I've run a hotter plug, and it did nothing.

The other 7 plugs looks GREAT after 10k miles...I change them every year regardless. But #1 has a scab over it in 2-3k miles.
 
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher

+1 What kind of plugs are you using as well? Some engines dont play well with certain plugs. Plugs I always stick with whatever the OEM and heat range was for that engine.


Since it's the #1 plug (easy access, in the front), I can literally change it in less than a minute. No big deal.

I run OEM plugs. AC Delco TS43's. I could try the anti-fouler. But since it's no big deal to change the plug, I usually change it out before it ever fouls. I'd rather never have it miss and run like [censored].
 
Originally Posted By: another Todd
In that case I would use the plugs you take out of the other cylinders and replace #1 with those slightly used plugs as needed.


That's exactly what I do. When I go through all 7 plugs, I clean them on the wire wheel, and start over.
 
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