Calculate proper PSI for higher load index?

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OEM tire has a load rating of 103. Recommended PSI is 32 all around.

Replacement tire is XL and has a load rating of 107.

Do you just run the same PSI in this replacement tire or do you reduce it since it has a higher load rating? If you should reduce it, how do you figure out what the new PSI should be?
 
If you like handling/performance and ride of the OEM tire at recommended PSI of 32 PSI, I would start at the same pressure with the new tire for a week, even the new tire loading is 107 instead of 103. If you find that the ride is firmer than you like then reduce 1 PSI a week until you find a sweet spot.
 
Call the manufacturer and ask them for a load capacity chart.

It'll tell you exactly how much air you need to run for the weight the tires will need to carry.
 
I'm not sure if this can help.

"…...This guide is intended to provide assistance in utilizing load and inflation tables when replacing tires with optional tire sizes including “plus sizes” that may not be listed on the vehicle’s tire information placard (T.I.P.) or in the owner’s manual. For inflation pressure recommendations for the original equipment (OE) size, refer to the tire information placard (T.I.P.) or owner’s manual….."

http://toyotires.com/sites/default/files/page-files/LoadInflation_Table_P-LT_102913.pdf
 
If you are using the same size, and the only difference is SL (Standard Load) vs XL (Extra Load), then use the same pressure. The load carrying capacity at a given inflation pressure doesn't change with the difference in MAX load carrying capacity for a given size.

And a word of CAUTION:

The load tables published by various tire manufacturers and tire standardizing organizations are MAXIMUMS (or minimums depending on how you look at it) - NOT recommendations! You should be using MORE pressure than indicated by the chart.

PLUS, there is a sticker on every vehicle sold in the US than tells you the original tire size and the specified inflation pressure for that size. That's the vehicle manufacturers specs and it applies to ALL tires of that size - regardless of brand.
 
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PLUS, there is a sticker on every vehicle sold in the US than tells you the original tire size and the specified inflation pressure for that size. That's the vehicle manufacturers specs and it applies to ALL tires of that size - regardless of brand.

If memory serves, you wrote one time that these manufacturer's stickers became accurate in 2006. What should one go by for an older vehicle? For example, my '01 Tundra has 26 psi on the sticker for the 265/70-16 tires.
 
Continental's tire selector specifies different psi's for same size tires depending on the load rating.
 
Originally Posted By: Ken2
If memory serves, you wrote one time that these manufacturer's stickers became accurate in 2006. What should one go by for an older vehicle? For example, my '01 Tundra has 26 psi on the sticker for the 265/70-16 tires.


This is quite complex, but allow me to refresh your memory.

I've noted 3 increases in tire sizing over the years. The latest was the result of the Ford/Firestone thing in 2000, and the upgrade was completed about 2006 - but this mainly applied to pickup trucks, conventional vans, and SUV's. Even then, some of those vehicles had reasonably sized tires, so it's hard to paint with a broad brush.

Cars were reasonably sized before that and the only change I noted was an upgrade in speed rating (with a couple of exceptions).

But in the meantime, the tires have gotten much better, so I don't feel very uncomfortable sticking with a simple, easy to remember: "Follow the placard".

Originally Posted By: JTSR71
Continental's tire selector specifies different psi's for same size tires depending on the load rating.


If you have a link to something specific, that would be helpful.

I did looked at their website and noted some situations where they differentiate between P metric and hard metric (and since they are a German manufacturer, I assume they are using the European standards), but that was only on plus sized tires, and there was only 1 psi difference - and I assume that's an artifact of the websites calculation algorithm, not something they deliberately put in because of the physics involved. (I'm thinking lawyers were involved, so they chose a "safe" path, rather than a "close enough" path.)
 
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Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Barry,

Didn't you say on your website that research showed going down the load table decreased the speed rating?


I think you mean speed capability. The speed rating is a grade based on a test with specific conditions.

And, yeah, I recall a study that said that if you test the speed capability of a tire using the speed rating test, and use lower inflation pressures, and even though you adjust the load to compensate, you get a lower speed capability.

I didn't think of it until now, but that is a very good discussion point about why the OEM's use such high speed rated tires - that the actual speed capability is lower at the conditions the tire is being used.
 
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That's probably also why I've seen many German makes recommend bumping up the inflation pressures if you're going to be doing high speed driving (aka Autobahn).
 
I'm personally a big fan of using inflation pressure above OEM. I had nothing but great results. The rapid shoulder wear in city driving with OEM pressure is gone when pressure is bumped closer to 40 PSI. Now that I think of it, it's a great way to bump up the speed capability (not speed rating, thanks Barry for correcting).
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
That's probably also why I've seen many German makes recommend bumping up the inflation pressures if you're going to be doing high speed driving (aka Autobahn).

The MB E430 normal speed recommendation is 32F/33R but increase to 34F/42R for speed above 100 MPH.
 
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