Winter Mower - Maintenance / Check List
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I just winterized my Toro 22" Recycler mower with B&S engine this week. This is my process:
During the mowing season I use normal gasoline from a local station that has ethanol in it, and just mix a little Sta-Bil in it. The last time I mow the lawn I don't fill the fuel tank, so the tank will run dry when I'm mowing. Then I put in some TruFuel (engineered 4-cycle fuel with no ethanol), just enough to finish mowing and to run a few minutes while I winterize.
After mowing I connect a garden hose to the washout port and run the engine for a few minutes. After shutting it off I remove the decorative plastic housing on top of the engine. I spray a mixture of Purple Power degreaser and two parts water to everything; engine, top of deck, underside, wheels, etc. I brush everything thoroughly and then hose off with a stream of water. After rinsing I blow everything dry with compressed air as best I can.
After the cleaning process I change the engine oil, using Amsoil synthetic 4-stroke 10W-30/SAE 30 small engine oil. Then I start the engine and let it run a few minutes, which heats the fresh oil to operating temp and evaporates any water remaining from the cleaning procedure. While the engine is still running I remove the air filter housing and filter, then spray B&S fogging oil into the carburetor. I spray enough to kill the engine, which makes my front yard look like a reenactment of the Battle of Verdun!
I spray WD-40 all over the carburetor and controls/springs/etc in the area, using paper towels to wipe up the excess and catch the drips underneath. Then I remove the blade and sharpen it. This year I also sanded the rust off the blade and painted it with satin black spray paint, but usually I don't bother. I clean the air filter housing and put in a new air filter. The last thing I do is take a new Champion spark plug and tape it to the top housing of the engine to remind me to change it in the spring. The first time I mow next season I'll run on the old spark plug so it burns off the fogging oil and then change the spark plug afterwards.
During the mowing season I use normal gasoline from a local station that has ethanol in it, and just mix a little Sta-Bil in it. The last time I mow the lawn I don't fill the fuel tank, so the tank will run dry when I'm mowing. Then I put in some TruFuel (engineered 4-cycle fuel with no ethanol), just enough to finish mowing and to run a few minutes while I winterize.
After mowing I connect a garden hose to the washout port and run the engine for a few minutes. After shutting it off I remove the decorative plastic housing on top of the engine. I spray a mixture of Purple Power degreaser and two parts water to everything; engine, top of deck, underside, wheels, etc. I brush everything thoroughly and then hose off with a stream of water. After rinsing I blow everything dry with compressed air as best I can.
After the cleaning process I change the engine oil, using Amsoil synthetic 4-stroke 10W-30/SAE 30 small engine oil. Then I start the engine and let it run a few minutes, which heats the fresh oil to operating temp and evaporates any water remaining from the cleaning procedure. While the engine is still running I remove the air filter housing and filter, then spray B&S fogging oil into the carburetor. I spray enough to kill the engine, which makes my front yard look like a reenactment of the Battle of Verdun!
I spray WD-40 all over the carburetor and controls/springs/etc in the area, using paper towels to wipe up the excess and catch the drips underneath. Then I remove the blade and sharpen it. This year I also sanded the rust off the blade and painted it with satin black spray paint, but usually I don't bother. I clean the air filter housing and put in a new air filter. The last thing I do is take a new Champion spark plug and tape it to the top housing of the engine to remind me to change it in the spring. The first time I mow next season I'll run on the old spark plug so it burns off the fogging oil and then change the spark plug afterwards.
I recently did a final oil/filter/fuel filter change for winter storage. This is on a 1996 model Craftsman lawn tractor. The mower deck had begun to rust through so I checked on replacing it - absolutely shocked to find that I could get a new deck from Sears for $154 and they use flat-rate shipping of only $8.95. Now I'm doing the parts swap in my family room because its too cold outside.
Originally Posted By: Touring5
I recently did a final oil/filter/fuel filter change for winter storage. This is on a 1996 model Craftsman lawn tractor. The mower deck had begun to rust through so I checked on replacing it - absolutely shocked to find that I could get a new deck from Sears for $154 and they use flat-rate shipping of only $8.95. Now I'm doing the parts swap in my family room because its too cold outside.
Two years ago, I bought a new bare bones deck for my late 90's Craftsman. A worthwhile project providing everything else is good.I would put a coat of rustoleum on the underside of the new deck while is clean.
I recently did a final oil/filter/fuel filter change for winter storage. This is on a 1996 model Craftsman lawn tractor. The mower deck had begun to rust through so I checked on replacing it - absolutely shocked to find that I could get a new deck from Sears for $154 and they use flat-rate shipping of only $8.95. Now I'm doing the parts swap in my family room because its too cold outside.
Two years ago, I bought a new bare bones deck for my late 90's Craftsman. A worthwhile project providing everything else is good.I would put a coat of rustoleum on the underside of the new deck while is clean.
some people dont do anything but put them in their garage or shed i change my oil
On the deere with the briggs motor, I changed the plug, air filter, blew it out with the lawnmower, then put some ethanol remover and stabilizer in the fuel tank, and filled it up with fresh fuel.
I may have one or two mows left before the grass goes dormant here.
The HD motor oil has 6 month on it, it looked fine so I left it alone.
I may have one or two mows left before the grass goes dormant here.
The HD motor oil has 6 month on it, it looked fine so I left it alone.
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
some people dont do anything but put them in their garage or shed i change my oil
sounds like me.
4/2011 bought new 22 in toro recycler from home depot for $399.
I have 0.26 acres of grass to cut. it takes 30 minutes to cut my grass. I use ethanol FREE gasoline and add stabil on the last gas fill up over the winter. I use the water hose to clean the underside of the deck through the built in port less than ten times over four years. I have changed oil ONCE to get the break in oil out. after that, I have done nothing.
I still have the original blade, original spark plug, and original air filter.
I only use 1.5 gallons of gas over 7 months of grass cutting my yard. this is my first home and first lawn mower.
next spring, I'll change the oil, blade, spark plug, and air filter. it should be good for another four years.
some people dont do anything but put them in their garage or shed i change my oil
sounds like me.
4/2011 bought new 22 in toro recycler from home depot for $399.
I have 0.26 acres of grass to cut. it takes 30 minutes to cut my grass. I use ethanol FREE gasoline and add stabil on the last gas fill up over the winter. I use the water hose to clean the underside of the deck through the built in port less than ten times over four years. I have changed oil ONCE to get the break in oil out. after that, I have done nothing.
I still have the original blade, original spark plug, and original air filter.
I only use 1.5 gallons of gas over 7 months of grass cutting my yard. this is my first home and first lawn mower.
next spring, I'll change the oil, blade, spark plug, and air filter. it should be good for another four years.
Originally Posted By: Joel_MD
I just winterized my Toro 22" Recycler mower with B&S engine this week. This is my process:
During the mowing season I use normal gasoline from a local station that has ethanol in it, and just mix a little Sta-Bil in it. The last time I mow the lawn I don't fill the fuel tank, so the tank will run dry when I'm mowing. Then I put in some TruFuel (engineered 4-cycle fuel with no ethanol), just enough to finish mowing and to run a few minutes while I winterize.
After mowing I connect a garden hose to the washout port and run the engine for a few minutes. After shutting it off I remove the decorative plastic housing on top of the engine. I spray a mixture of Purple Power degreaser and two parts water to everything; engine, top of deck, underside, wheels, etc. I brush everything thoroughly and then hose off with a stream of water. After rinsing I blow everything dry with compressed air as best I can.
After the cleaning process I change the engine oil, using Amsoil synthetic 4-stroke 10W-30/SAE 30 small engine oil. Then I start the engine and let it run a few minutes, which heats the fresh oil to operating temp and evaporates any water remaining from the cleaning procedure. While the engine is still running I remove the air filter housing and filter, then spray B&S fogging oil into the carburetor. I spray enough to kill the engine, which makes my front yard look like a reenactment of the Battle of Verdun!
I spray WD-40 all over the carburetor and controls/springs/etc in the area, using paper towels to wipe up the excess and catch the drips underneath. Then I remove the blade and sharpen it. This year I also sanded the rust off the blade and painted it with satin black spray paint, but usually I don't bother. I clean the air filter housing and put in a new air filter. The last thing I do is take a new Champion spark plug and tape it to the top housing of the engine to remind me to change it in the spring. The first time I mow next season I'll run on the old spark plug so it burns off the fogging oil and then change the spark plug afterwards.
I have the same lawn mower. Your winterizing of your lawn mower seems like serious overkill. but to each their own. we'll see whose toro recycler last longer!
I just winterized my Toro 22" Recycler mower with B&S engine this week. This is my process:
During the mowing season I use normal gasoline from a local station that has ethanol in it, and just mix a little Sta-Bil in it. The last time I mow the lawn I don't fill the fuel tank, so the tank will run dry when I'm mowing. Then I put in some TruFuel (engineered 4-cycle fuel with no ethanol), just enough to finish mowing and to run a few minutes while I winterize.
After mowing I connect a garden hose to the washout port and run the engine for a few minutes. After shutting it off I remove the decorative plastic housing on top of the engine. I spray a mixture of Purple Power degreaser and two parts water to everything; engine, top of deck, underside, wheels, etc. I brush everything thoroughly and then hose off with a stream of water. After rinsing I blow everything dry with compressed air as best I can.
After the cleaning process I change the engine oil, using Amsoil synthetic 4-stroke 10W-30/SAE 30 small engine oil. Then I start the engine and let it run a few minutes, which heats the fresh oil to operating temp and evaporates any water remaining from the cleaning procedure. While the engine is still running I remove the air filter housing and filter, then spray B&S fogging oil into the carburetor. I spray enough to kill the engine, which makes my front yard look like a reenactment of the Battle of Verdun!
I spray WD-40 all over the carburetor and controls/springs/etc in the area, using paper towels to wipe up the excess and catch the drips underneath. Then I remove the blade and sharpen it. This year I also sanded the rust off the blade and painted it with satin black spray paint, but usually I don't bother. I clean the air filter housing and put in a new air filter. The last thing I do is take a new Champion spark plug and tape it to the top housing of the engine to remind me to change it in the spring. The first time I mow next season I'll run on the old spark plug so it burns off the fogging oil and then change the spark plug afterwards.
I have the same lawn mower. Your winterizing of your lawn mower seems like serious overkill. but to each their own. we'll see whose toro recycler last longer!
"I spray WD-40 all over the carburetor and controls/springs/etc in the area, using paper towels to wipe up the excess ..."
Joel MD, you might want to pick a better rust preventative since you are going to great lengths to protect your machine. Plenty of spray lubricants provide better rust prevention than WD-40. As a test, I once covered a bolt with WD-40, left it in an unheated garage for several months and it had a fair amount of rust on it afterwards. That's when I stopped using WD-40.
Joel MD, you might want to pick a better rust preventative since you are going to great lengths to protect your machine. Plenty of spray lubricants provide better rust prevention than WD-40. As a test, I once covered a bolt with WD-40, left it in an unheated garage for several months and it had a fair amount of rust on it afterwards. That's when I stopped using WD-40.
I fogged the carb on the sitdown. First time I've fogged an engine in ages. I used MMO in the gast tank and down the carb . The B+S 11 hoss runs poorly on MMO, but it does run. Wotta smoke screen!
Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
I have the same lawn mower. Your winterizing of your lawn mower seems like serious overkill. but to each their own. we'll see whose toro recycler last longer!
You are probably correct about my winterizing process being overkill. My previous mower was a Craftsman with 6hp B&S engine. I thought I could make it last forever with good maintenance. The engine may have, but unfortunately some things wore out that were part of the deck casting and could not be fixed or replaced cost effectively. So I bought the Toro, which seems to be higher quality overall.
I have the same lawn mower. Your winterizing of your lawn mower seems like serious overkill. but to each their own. we'll see whose toro recycler last longer!
You are probably correct about my winterizing process being overkill. My previous mower was a Craftsman with 6hp B&S engine. I thought I could make it last forever with good maintenance. The engine may have, but unfortunately some things wore out that were part of the deck casting and could not be fixed or replaced cost effectively. So I bought the Toro, which seems to be higher quality overall.
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