So awhile back I mentioned changing fluids in my '02 silverado 4wd. I'm finally getting around to having the time to look at doing it. In the suggestions people offered here so kindly I started looking at VI and other stats for Dex VI fluids. I was looking at Castrol Transmax (the one for Dex VI) since it has a VI of 161. Then I looked at Redline that has a VI of 166. Then I noted that the KV100 for castrol is 5.9 and redline's is 6.4. Then I noted that the brookfield values @ -40 for castrol were 10k while redline's was 4500. It seems to me the redline is better but all these numbers make my head spin. Any thoughts?
ATF in cold weather
- Thread starter JeremyInMT
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yes Redline would be the better fluid but is it worth the cost?
It would all depend on your ATF drain and refill frequencies, I would personally do SuperTech Dexron VI and then add the proper amount of lubegard and your good to go.
Drain & Refill every 40-60k EASILY, unless you have a known problematic auto tranny
It would all depend on your ATF drain and refill frequencies, I would personally do SuperTech Dexron VI and then add the proper amount of lubegard and your good to go.
Drain & Refill every 40-60k EASILY, unless you have a known problematic auto tranny
Originally Posted By: Noey
Redline is syn, it's a better fluid regardless of OCI. it resists shearing better, the viscosity is more stable, use it. Never add something to dino in the hopes it somehow reinforces it.
The castrol is full-syn as well.
Redline is syn, it's a better fluid regardless of OCI. it resists shearing better, the viscosity is more stable, use it. Never add something to dino in the hopes it somehow reinforces it.
The castrol is full-syn as well.
gathermewool
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Originally Posted By: JeremyInMT
Originally Posted By: Noey
Redline is syn, it's a better fluid regardless of OCI. it resists shearing better, the viscosity is more stable, use it. Never add something to dino in the hopes it somehow reinforces it.
The castrol is full-syn as well.
Is Castrol mostly group 3 and Redline group 5,though?
Originally Posted By: Noey
Redline is syn, it's a better fluid regardless of OCI. it resists shearing better, the viscosity is more stable, use it. Never add something to dino in the hopes it somehow reinforces it.
The castrol is full-syn as well.
Is Castrol mostly group 3 and Redline group 5,though?
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: JeremyInMT
Originally Posted By: Noey
Redline is syn, it's a better fluid regardless of OCI. it resists shearing better, the viscosity is more stable, use it. Never add something to dino in the hopes it somehow reinforces it.
The castrol is full-syn as well.
Is Castrol mostly group 3 and Redline group 5,though?
No idea. Could be.
Originally Posted By: JeremyInMT
Originally Posted By: Noey
Redline is syn, it's a better fluid regardless of OCI. it resists shearing better, the viscosity is more stable, use it. Never add something to dino in the hopes it somehow reinforces it.
The castrol is full-syn as well.
Is Castrol mostly group 3 and Redline group 5,though?
No idea. Could be.
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Group 3 vs 4 or 5 can be argued indefinitely. Not worth the time to debate.
Castrol has a couple Dex6 fluids. One is a full synth. Not everyone can afford boutique fluids like Amsoil, Redline, Torco, Neo.... If the trans works fine on factory fill, any upgrade is a good start. I'd recommend a full synth as an upgrade to any conventional or blend.
Also, new fluid paper specs are for new fluid only. Not worth comparing 'cause once it hits the funnel, it's not new anymore.
Castrol has a couple Dex6 fluids. One is a full synth. Not everyone can afford boutique fluids like Amsoil, Redline, Torco, Neo.... If the trans works fine on factory fill, any upgrade is a good start. I'd recommend a full synth as an upgrade to any conventional or blend.
Also, new fluid paper specs are for new fluid only. Not worth comparing 'cause once it hits the funnel, it's not new anymore.
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Also, new fluid paper specs are for new fluid only. Not worth comparing 'cause once it hits the funnel, it's not new anymore.
Bitog proves that no matter the worth, it WILL be discussed! I think though that VI is a pretty good indicator of performance, as VII's at this point keep said VI pretty stable. I know Dex VI has to have fairly tight specs, but the cold temps here are what I've been additively interested in.
Also, new fluid paper specs are for new fluid only. Not worth comparing 'cause once it hits the funnel, it's not new anymore.
Bitog proves that no matter the worth, it WILL be discussed! I think though that VI is a pretty good indicator of performance, as VII's at this point keep said VI pretty stable. I know Dex VI has to have fairly tight specs, but the cold temps here are what I've been additively interested in.
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Bitog can debate whatever they want. Majority are clueless. Spec retention is what I care about, and a datasheet doesn't provide your ATF specs at 10k, 20k, or 50k miles. It provides false hope and useless nonstop Bitog debate threads.
The bestest or latest VM/VII aren't always in use or even required. I also don't see Dexron6 as great or tight of a spec.
The bestest or latest VM/VII aren't always in use or even required. I also don't see Dexron6 as great or tight of a spec.
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Bitog can debate whatever they want. Majority are clueless. Spec retention is what I care about, and a datasheet doesn't provide your ATF specs at 10k, 20k, or 50k miles. It provides false hope and useless nonstop Bitog debate threads.
The bestest or latest VM/VII aren't always in use or even required. I also don't see Dexron6 as great or tight of a spec.
I was speaking of the bitog over-discussion in jest. I read your comment to take it more seriously than I meant it. Sorry if I bent the conversation in that direction inadvertently.
Redline's specs are better and everything I've seen dealing with UOA's shows it retains its quality as well. While I agree with your argument in principle, I don't see any recommendation from you about my original post and I'm curious as to what you'd recommend as it sounds like you've done some analytic thinking about it.
Bitog can debate whatever they want. Majority are clueless. Spec retention is what I care about, and a datasheet doesn't provide your ATF specs at 10k, 20k, or 50k miles. It provides false hope and useless nonstop Bitog debate threads.
The bestest or latest VM/VII aren't always in use or even required. I also don't see Dexron6 as great or tight of a spec.
I was speaking of the bitog over-discussion in jest. I read your comment to take it more seriously than I meant it. Sorry if I bent the conversation in that direction inadvertently.
Redline's specs are better and everything I've seen dealing with UOA's shows it retains its quality as well. While I agree with your argument in principle, I don't see any recommendation from you about my original post and I'm curious as to what you'd recommend as it sounds like you've done some analytic thinking about it.
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Redline is a topnotch fluid.
Amsoil somewhat snuffed them in the gear oil comparison years ago. I just worry that their product might not live up to their datasheet specs. I do have MT90 in my manual trans, and their GL5 in a couple of diffs and xfer case. But, I don't recommend choosing a fluid simply on virgin datasheets. I also don't practice brand loyalty.
Either their D4 or D6 would be useable. Whether it would perform any better than Amsoil/Maxlife/Supertech/whatever in your trans is for you to decide.
Those 25w-100w glue on or magnetic oil pan heaters can also be used on a trans pan/sump since your mild winter is starting soon. WARMED fluid is hard to beat.
Amsoil somewhat snuffed them in the gear oil comparison years ago. I just worry that their product might not live up to their datasheet specs. I do have MT90 in my manual trans, and their GL5 in a couple of diffs and xfer case. But, I don't recommend choosing a fluid simply on virgin datasheets. I also don't practice brand loyalty.
Either their D4 or D6 would be useable. Whether it would perform any better than Amsoil/Maxlife/Supertech/whatever in your trans is for you to decide.
Those 25w-100w glue on or magnetic oil pan heaters can also be used on a trans pan/sump since your mild winter is starting soon. WARMED fluid is hard to beat.
Maxlife in the gallon is my favorite bargain. Autozone or Meijer have them cheap. Super shear stable synthetic atf, good stuff.
MolaKule
Staff member
For winter use in Montana the preferred fluid for a GM of that year would be a DexVI or equivalent with the lowest Brookfield viscosity. A Brookfield viscosity of less than 12,000 cP@-40C is good for Northern Tier winters.
Redline D6, Amsoil Fuel Efficient (ATL), or the Valvoline Maxlife would be good choices.
Redline D6, Amsoil Fuel Efficient (ATL), or the Valvoline Maxlife would be good choices.
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