DIY Headlight aiming - Some Aiming Specs.

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In the US E-code are technically illegal. What we get ar DOT/ECE (harmonized) hybrid so to speak. G-man DOT HID actually has a right hand flare, it's different from the E-code flare.

DOT (HID) looks like __|--- __|-- or usually has a Z step, whereas
e-code usually looks like __/-- __/-- or a slant step. E-codes typically put out more light, but has a sharper contrast from light to dark, and no light kick up to light up overhead signs. DOT still requires light kick-up, the harmonized projectors are pretty darn close now compared to past projectors. Typically Stanley/Koito have some of the highest output as far as projectors, and can be found on the AP1 & AP2 S2000 (Wide and bright). ZKW's are good but difficult to find, excep on a few BMW models.
 
For 35 years I've successfully aimed headlights using the following method:

- Find a straight stretch of driveway or parking lot that meets a wall.
- Drive up to it, bumper touching the wall.
- Mark the center point of illumination on the wall.
- Drive straight backward about 20 feet.
- Aim each headlight so it illuminates slightly low and toward the shoulder.

In my case it's my driveway with two magnets against on garage door.
 
I don't have the convenience of a garage door but tonight I had dense fog. It's great! It took about 6 cycles adjusting and driving around the block to get the lights adjusted right. The beams are straight but time will tell if they're too high.
 
My car has only single adjusting nut. As far as I can determine, the adjustment is only for up and down and not for sideways. I just replaced the H4 bulb and I think I need to adjust the headlight. I thought changing H4 bulb should NOT change the beam pattern but I did put PLUS-50 bulb. I wonder if PLUS-50 bulb intentionally moves the filament position to change the beam pattern. May be that is the "cheating" part of it?

- Vikas
 
What is causing headlight bulb replacement to necessitate re-aiming? This is vanilla H4 bulb replacement. I changed one and the new one is causing the beam to go little bit up. I will put the old one back and will verify that new bulb is causing the problem.

- Vikas
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
My car has only single adjusting nut. As far as I can determine, the adjustment is only for up and down and not for sideways. I just replaced the H4 bulb and I think I need to adjust the headlight. I thought changing H4 bulb should NOT change the beam pattern but I did put PLUS-50 bulb. I wonder if PLUS-50 bulb intentionally moves the filament position to change the beam pattern. May be that is the "cheating" part of it?


Did you figure out the issue? I suspect that this ^^ is the issue. Either that, or poor quality control over the placement of the filament to begin with.
 
I had the same problem. I changed a pair of bulbs and they definitely need to be re-aimed. Since only one burned out, I swapped the working old one back. Interesting headlight stagger with 1 old and 1 new bulb. No issue to oncoming drivers but sure is better than both new bulbs, and still beats having only 1 working old bulb. Saving the headlight re-aiming for warmer days.
 
Gen 4 Toyotas with H4's used a big resistor which was shorted out when the headlight switch was turned on. Pretty tough on the halogen low beam filament. They changed that on the Gen 4.5. One concern the safty nannies had was folks driving with the DRL at night, thus the photocell which turns on the full low beam at dusk. (Whether you like it or not)
 
There is an OPPOSITE H4 config for the UK, BTW. Drivers going across the channel are expected to install a sticky "filter" on UK H4's to control the uptilt which is on the wrong side for the restof Europe. There once were regulations in European cities which required the use of City Lights, so called in well lit areas. Don't know if they stll exist. My BMW bike came with such an extra bulb inside the lamp assembly, but on the US version, it is powered only when the headlight is on, OR when the key is in the engine off "parknig light" position.
 
I have access to a Hella Vision optical aimer. So I use that for my headlights. I find when I aim them on the wall, it is somewhat off, left or right, and usually a bit high. Fairly close but not quite right. The aim specs where I work are within 4" left or right, And within 4" up or down. Beam scatter from discolored or damaged lenses can cause the beam to not aim correctly due to scatter. Also, incorrectly manufactured bulb can cause change in aim. Or HID in non HID headlight assembly.

Most states require a DOT/SAE validation on headlights. I believe all are adjustable for vertical aim. Some are not adjustable for left and right, and should have VOR or VOL on the lens somewhere.
I believe in the US the DRL requirements are:
Low beam used for DRL, parking lights must be on
High beam used for DRL, reduced voltage parking lights should be off.
A separate bulb may be used. They often use separate bulb for DRL especially with BiXenon Projectors, due to above regulations.

Many European vehicles have a City light. I believe it was a requirement in cities with street lights. I do not know if it is still required in Europe

Sorry for long post. Headlights are a very large topic.
 
Daniel Stern has recently revised his headlight aiming page:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

Quote
...Lamp aim is by far the main thing that determines how well you can (or can't) see at night—it's even more important than the output and beam pattern of the headlamps themselves. No matter how good or bad your headlamps and fog lamps might be, they'll work effectively and safely only if they're correctly aimed....

...make the effort to get the lamps aimed carefully and correctly, very preferably with an optical aiming machine....It can be difficult to find a shop that has one. And even dealerships that have one often don't bother using it....if you have no luck, try talking with the companies who make the aiming machines. They should be able to tell you who has their machines in your area. Check with American Aimers and Lujan-Sniper. Call Hella USA at 1-877-22HELLA (1-877-224-3552) and ask who has a Hella Beamsetter....

...If you just cannot find someone who has an optical aiming machine and is willing to use it correctly, you will have to make do with the distant second-preference method of putting the vehicle on flat, level ground and shining the lamps on a wall a certain distance away. It has to be done as carefully and precisely as possible, so here are detailed instructions:
 
Years ago , I would park the car on level ground in front of a brick or cinder block wall and make adjustment(s) . Would use the mortar for leveling and aiming . Night is best .
 
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