What does Liqui-Moly CERATEC do?

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All of these products like Ceratec and Archoil 9300 may be an overkill but they can be fun to play with. Archoil states to use their cleaner (AR2300??) for 3K miles before using AR 9300 unless you have been running AR9100 which does not offer ceramic coating but is slicker than AR9300. In light of that I am thinking about gallon of Archoil AR9100 and run it in everything since it is for engines, transmissions and hydraulic oil. In manual, auto transmissions the mixing ratio goes to 10% making it go fast. My try some in the old backhoe but it would cost $400 to fully treat it. I can do it with Lucas Hydraulic Oil Booster and Stop Leak for only $60 but they are not designed to do the same thing.

For engines at we change (none hold more than 2 gallons) we just go with synthetic engine oil how ever at the quick lube places I just go with house brand dino to offset their labor charges. I like Shell T6 as the oil to stash because it is good for the lawnmower to diesel engines but after some testing really like Mobil 1 10w-40 High Mileage oil for the gas engines as all are 100K to 200K+ miles. It is the slickest oil out of the bottle that I have seen and sticky too. I used it as the rebuild oil in the Polaris engines and was impressed. It may be the moly but it seems to be good cutting oil and adds to bit life.

On the 2000 150K towncar with Ceratec with over 3500 miles on it we will monitor. Checked today and on local driving it is showing 19.3 MPG today after the 3500 mile trip last week but did not really test it right before adding Ceratec but that is higher then in the pass. It may have been winter but once after many tanks it was more like 11 MPG but if it was idled a lot at start up that would have been a factor.

Other than the engine being more quiet we see no major pro or con at this point with Ceratec.
 
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Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins

From the tear down of the Polaris engine after 11 hours of run time with Ceratec added it clearly coated the wear points. &&&&&&& We have no objective way to determine if the Ceratec is of any value to the engine.


What did you see/detect/feel that makes you think Ceratec coated?
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Anyways, you guys have me interested.
However, before I bite, I'm curious as to how many of you guys currently have this in your crankcase?
SuperDave Osborne, I use LM MOS2, am thinkin about Ceratec. Need proof.
 
Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
...but after some testing really like Mobil 1 10w-40 High Mileage oil for the gas engines as all are 100K to 200K+ miles. It is the slickest oil out of the bottle that I have seen and sticky too. I used it as the rebuild oil in the Polaris engines and was impressed. It may be the moly but it seems to be good cutting oil and adds to bit life.


Thanks for this. I think I'll give Mobil 1 HM a try and skip the moly since it has it included.
 
keesue I expect the moly is a factor. I try to use grease with moly as well for the equipment.

I can tell by ear (never measured it) the 4.6L in the 2000 towncar with 150K miles is a bit more quite with the Ceratec than even with the LM MoS2.

Being a gear head it is fun to mess with these additives like Ceratec and Archoil 9300 with nano technologies. At the same time we know they functionally do nothing for us other than separate us from our cash.
smile.gif


I expect based on reading a lot of Archoil research they do pay their way in engines that hold 20+ gallons of motor oil and need to last 40 years running 24/7 most of those 40 years and the same for gear boxes.

Today's passenger vehicles will long since wear out the chassis just using the motor oil specs and change intervals that some in the book in the glove box.

On our run that got us into Canada (with the Ceratec added after a new oil change) we drove from east to west across much of Nebraska and saw all of those coal trains. I can see why Archoil would be used in industries like that. The cost savings with train usage of Archoil research showed some real savings in just fuel usage the best I remember.
 
Originally Posted By: stickybuns
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Anyways, you guys have me interested.
However, before I bite, I'm curious as to how many of you guys currently have this in your crankcase?
SuperDave Osborne, I use LM MOS2, am thinkin about Ceratec. Need proof.


Due to the lack of proof faith will be required.:) Neither are required to enable a car engine to wear out the chassis 99% of the time.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: stickybuns
Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins

From the tear down of the Polaris engine after 11 hours of run time with Ceratec added it clearly coated the wear points. &&&&&&& We have no objective way to determine if the Ceratec is of any value to the engine.


What did you see/detect/feel that makes you think Ceratec coated?


There was a shine and the cylinder wall marks from running with no oil in the crankcase were less after idling the engine for 11 hours with Ceratec added. While the crank still had ridges they were smooth and shiny and while showing some heavy wear the rod bearing never did spin in the connecting rod. No proof of anything but it did run and the parts looked better than I expect after 11 hours of run time with a chewed up crank.

The coating is not enough to stop rust from occurring. It was torn down in Jan and due to life it has set since that time the head setting on a table became uncovered and the cam shaft showed some very light surface rust but is the kind that you can rub off with oil. This shows the ceramic coating is not moisture proof when exposed to the air.

The blown Polaris 325 cc air/oil cooled engine was just a test bed we used to test Ceratec to some degree. Valid research would be nice to to have but with a tool and die background I have no question that Ceratec made a difference in this adverse case.

In the case of these oil cooled Polaris engines that with age experience oil line failure something like Ceratec, Archoil 9300, etc might save an engine due to the lost of all engine oil by a bit but who knows for sure. In the case with this line of Polaris all one would have to do is to change out two oil lines every 5-10 years to reduce this risk.
smile.gif


Not all will emotionally agree but the fact remains there are no new cars that one expects engine failure before the chassis is shot if the OCI and oil in the manual is followed so functionally all additives are worthless today.
smile.gif
 
I'm hoping to see the benefits of the L-M Ceratec after I have ran it 5,000 miles and then drain it and add the L-M mos2 to the next oil change. I'm hoping to see an improvement in MPG as well as longevity of the engine with these two additives but as you have said with proper maintenance an engine should outlive the vehicle. If L-M would run a controlled long term test on say 2 vehicles that are the exact same from new, one with they're additives and one without, then we might be able to see how the L-M might be of benefit....or not.
 
On our 2008 Jeep Liberty:

About 4k in now with Ceratec.

The Chrysler 3.7l has never sounded so quiet.

Wife claims maybe a few more miles per gallon, Who knows?

Startup noise is down too, And overall the Engine feels smoother.

I think it was worth it so far.
 
We do notice the 150K mile 2000 Ford 4.6L is more quiet after 5K miles with Ceratec but think the Moly used after the prior oil change may have helped MPG more than Ceratec.
 
Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
....the Moly used after the prior oil change may have helped MPG more than Ceratec.

+1

My experience as well with a dozen vehicles over the years.

* Cera Tec seems to be best at extending the longevity of the engine with a more permanent bonding of metal surfaces.

* Moly (MoS2) is an outstanding friction reducer that enhances MPG due to slipperier surfaces between metal parts.
 
Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
....the Moly used after the prior oil change may have helped MPG more than Ceratec.

+1

My experience as well with a dozen vehicles over the years.

* Cera Tec seems to be best at extending the longevity of the engine with a more permanent bonding of metal surfaces.

* Moly (MoS2) is an outstanding friction reducer that enhances MPG due to slipperier surfaces between metal parts.


After having ran the MoS2 for 5K miles we changed oil and after about 100 miles added the Ceratec and started checking MPH on our 3500 mile.6.5 day trip to Canada. We hit 25.5 for the first three tanks and under very similar conditions we were down to 23.5 on the last three tanks. It was several years ago the last time I personally drove the car on a trip and it would hit about 22 MPH say 50K miles earlier. We have a road trip to MD (east coast) next month and should have the Ceratec out by then and I will plan to check with MoS2 after running Ceratec. If the MPG gets back up to 25.5 that would support MoS2 helps MPG more than Ceratec.

Currently I am thinking a name brand Dino plus a can of MoS2 is better than the most expensive Synthetic motor oil on the market for best engine life and highest MPG.

It was used in WWII piston aircraft engines to reduce friction for a short while even after total oil loss for a good reason.
 
Thanks, GaleHawkins!

This is very interesting! After a bad UOA, I used MoS2 for the first time in the Beetle for about 1,000 miles, but unfortunately either USPS or Blackstone lost that sample. I am much more concerned about engine protection and wear than good MPG. I am about to use Ceratec with Rotella 15W40 HDEO, which is a recommended oil for older air-cooled engines.
 
I've finally reached 3,000 miles on the LM Ceratec I added to my 95 Harley Electra Glide 2 months ago. I'm leaning towards using Valvoline Vr1 dino 20w50 as I have read on this and some Harley forums to use dino in the evolution engines because they tend to leak oil using synthetics...IDK. Anyway, I'll be adding the mos2 to the next oil change and plan on changing the oil every 5k miles.
 
gman2304 are you going to run the Ceratec ot the 5K mark before you change?

I have decided to run the 4.6L to 5K just to make sure all that will coat the wear points will do so to the max but I do not know when the max point is.
 
GaleHawkins, I first thought I might run it to 5k but the bike is new to me and the ceratec bottle said to run it 3k so I'm thinking it is probably coated pretty well by now. I want to establish a baseline so I'll know exactly what's what when I get the transmission and primary oil changed as well. You might get some additional benefit from going to 5k...IDK. I also have the LM Ceratec in my 05 Chevy Avalanche and I might go as far as following the OLM on it....again...IDK yet.
 
I think another brand that drove a car without oil for a couple hundred miles did the drain after 3000 miles their ceramic additive was added so I guess perhaps max benefit ends at some point per the Youtube marketing video. Keep us posted.
 
Were you the person who mentioned "1 million revolutions"? Mind us telling why you chose that metrics? I am disappointed at myself for not catching this earlier but better late than never :)
 
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