plastic fuel filter used as coolant filter

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This is the second time I've done this. First one was a metal Fram G15 ran about 100 miles, this is the duralast g15 cross reference to that spliced into my Ford Taurus overflow return line. Less than 100 miles over two weeks of short trips ruined the plastic filter. It was fine until I did some full throttle runs to see if it would implode, it did get very wavy at full load and shortly after the next day the element came loose.

In this short time it loaded the filter good. I might do it again for the quick cleanup.

First picture is the day of the install, rest are of the removal after failure.

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No leaks or anything but the filter element came loose and stopped filtering. Maybe it reached its holding capacity but I want to try it again without abusing the throttle and see how long it lasts. Also there's less contamination now that I've run two filters through it.

Going to try the Wix cross reference soon as it looks more robust.


This cooling system seems to be rough on everything. Even after doing a thorough flush two years ago and replacing the dirty overflow tank and cap with a genuine Motorcraft the system is getting dirty again. I thought it was the older style green coolant causing it so it's had Prestone all makes all models in there but it still gets sediment in the tank and floating particles on the surface of the fluid.

Currently the heater core is plugged and I'm not putting much money into this beater.
 
I used a metal one on the old brown van. It caught a LOT of crud, so much so that the element was completely squashed. I don't think it could even flow anymore. It never came apart, though.
 
I wish I had a pressurized recovery tank in any of the vehicles I own. If I did I'd do exactly what you did. Nice, cheap, easy, and it works. Cutting a heater hose and plumping in a filter to a 5/8" or 3/4" heater hose is a bit more challenging, and costly.

Thanks for posting!
 
Thats pretty neat but I'd use a metal one for a high pressure fuel injected system. The carbed ones you used are designed for about 5 psi but fuel injection systems can do around 60 psi on some cars.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Thats pretty neat but I'd use a metal one for a high pressure fuel injected system. The carbed ones you used are designed for about 5 psi but fuel injection systems can do around 60 psi on some cars.

If he is running a stock radiator cap, his cooling system probably uses 15 PSI of pressure. That could be a problem.

I never imagined this would work. Often plastic products are designed for a certain grop of chemicals. One for gasoline, one for oil and ATF, one for antifreeze, one for brake fluid, and one for diesel fuel.
 
Which is why i only had it on there for about 100 miles. The plastic didn't seem to have much of a problem short term the failure was the adhesive holding the element to the base inside.
 
That is a good idea! Would be nice to get a re-usable filter of some sort that is tougher and easy to clean for re-use. Great to use once in a while to keep things clean and crud free.
 
Went to pick up this Wix 33003 on break at the close by O'Reilly and wanted to put it on before my short drive home tonight but I think I left my little piece of rubber hose with clamp in the other car, so it will have to wait. Hopefully I can locate the little hose since it won't work without it.

Initially impression of the Wix compared to the Duralast cross reference leave me feeling the Wix is more robust and should hold up better.

The duralast was made in China but had a metal end cap, the Wix is made in Russia and has only potting material holding the end together. Time will tell if it lasts more than 100 miles without the glue coming off.


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This is an excellent concept for the Vulcan, which has a history of coolant rust particle production that clogs the heater element that has very small passages.

If you ever back flush the heater core via the heater hoses (lots of you-tube videos), you will literally get a cup or more of sediment out.

You need a much bigger filter.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
This is an excellent concept for the Vulcan, which has a history of coolant rust particle production that clogs the heater element that has very small passages.

If you ever back flush the heater core via the heater hoses (lots of you-tube videos), you will literally get a cup or more of sediment out.

You need a much bigger filter.



Yes i flushed it very thoroughly 2 years ago including attaching a garden hose directly to the heater core outlet and inlet and there was a huge amount of rust sediment that came out. It was almost endless, the heat only partially came back then went mostly out again a few months later.
 
Okay put the wix filter on and drove it 10 miles, took pictures after 5 miles, its loading FAST!







Just installed
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Just installed, right after starting engine
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After only 5 miles of driving at about 45-50 mph, already showing a light brown coating
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Another angle of 5 miles
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After 10 miles really showing brown coating
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Another angle after 10 miles, last picture of today, you can see the brown pretty well

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Stay tuned for updates on how long its going to last and how dirty its going to get!
 
Too hot for me again to bear the heat of driving the car to work so it might be a few days before i get an update, but worst case i am going to idle it a little to get the filter loaded faster.
 
Those arctic cat filters look the most promising, but i wonder how easy they come apart.

I like the idea of the screen filters, but i think i need smaller micron size for my particlar contaimnation.

The glass one on ebay looks pretty sweet too but theres not a lot of information in the description. No mention to capacity or micron size or how easily its cleaned.
 
I won't be able to drive it for a couple days so i idle'd it for about 40 minutes to see if that would catch a lot of stuff. The filter even at idle is starting to get a little wavy but loading up fast.

I think the heat of sitting and idling is worse than driving since i noticed the filter bulging more and the engine compartment gets pretty hot when idling rather than moving.

The media is getting noticeably browner too, might be time to pull it soon!

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