Oil for a Genuine Stella 4T

Status
Not open for further replies.
Update: I got sick of waiting and after reading the warranty certificate, realized they most likely will not cover it. So I went out and tried to get the nuts off of the studs. Two I got off with a little finagling, two refused to come off. Turns out the threads on the studs stripped where the nut threads on, not the threads in the crankcase. I managed to get the last two nuts off by dremeling and cracking them. Same thing, the threads on the studs stripped where the nut was. Have no idea how to get the studs out now to replace them. Service manager said they were threaded in, so they probably are red loctited in, so that means heat. Parts diagram doesn't show this are in detail so I have no idea. Replacing the studs would most likely require removing the clutch cover. Thinking of just bringing it in to the dealer to have them replace the stud, since I'm afraid of screwing something up.
 
Last edited:
this can get complicated...

parts might or might not be covered by warranty (the dealer should be able to get replacements under warranty since they technically are defective); the labor costs might be what bites you in the butt (this is usually a dealer's 'bread-n-butter' for making money)...Genuine wants the dealer to do the first service and I'm not sure what leeway your dealer has with covering labor under a warranty claim in this instance;

I've been in similar circumstances with doing my own detailed maintenance on firearms and getting in over my head...had to make the same call and let an expert handle the stuff beyond my abilities, so don't feel bad by coming to the same conclusion about taking the scooter to the dealer; I just hope they understand your intentions and somehow get the work done under warranty...

before I forget...here is a good source of info for you:

http://www.modernbuddy.com/forum/index.html

there is a section dedicated to the Stellas...
 
Last edited:
I got the studs out and replaced them without removing the clutch cover. It was a B, though. I had to use a pair of needle nose vise grips and turn out each stud a few degrees at a time. They were red loctited so I had to use a liberal amount of heat to dissolve the loctite and the vise grips didn't always bite into the stud. After a few hours, many hand cramps and break times later, I had the studs out. Putting the new ones on was a breeze. Still have the rear wheel off and the rear up on a piece of 2x4, waiting overnight to see if any oil leaks. Still considering bringing it to the dealer for the 500 mi service, since they know what best to look for and to have them look over my work.
 
Just measured the temp of the oil after a good run that included a 5 mile WOT highway jaunt just before home, 219.5*F. A couple other times I measured oil temp it was around 198*F I was expecting higher than that, that's probably what my car's oil temps are (the Yaris' normal operating coolant temp is 180-190*F, so I'd expect oil temps to be slightly higher). FYI, current fill is Resolute 20w50 "Race Oil", no weird noises, engine seems to run and the transmission shifts just as well on this as the Valvoline 20w50 MC I had in it before. I bought the Resolute because it was on sale for $1.99/qt and I wanted some oil in the sump while towing back and forth from the dealer, but didn't want to waste the M1 15w50 in case they had to drain it when the fixed it. Since I managed to fix it without opening the crankcase and I just wanted to ride without having to change oil first, I left it in.
 
glad to hear the machine is back together and back on the road...

don't take this the wrong way...now that it's running, please let the dealer do the REAL 500-mile service; having receipts showing them doing the service should allow you to keep the warranty (and ask them to Red loctite the studs if you didn't do it already); ask them nicely if you can watch how to change the filter (they might have a 'trick' to break the seal of the cap nuts from the studs without the threads stripping)...

good luck and enjoy your machine! I miss the styling of my previous Stella and I might snag one down the road...
 
Last edited:
There are rumors of a Stella 200 coming in 2015, though no solid facts.

You know, had I not been set on the Stella, I might have bought a GZ250, I love those little Japanese standard bikes like the Honda CB.
 
According to the Magnuson-Moss warranty Act they cannot force you to let them do the first service in order to keep the warranty.

"Tie-In Sales" Provisions
Generally, tie-in sales provisions are not allowed. Such a provision would require a purchaser of the warranted product to buy an item or service from a particular company to use with the warranted product in order to be eligible to receive a remedy under the warranty. The following are examples of prohibited tie-in sales provisions.


In order to keep your new Plenum Brand Vacuum Cleaner warranty in effect, you must use genuine Plenum Brand Filter Bags. Failure to have scheduled maintenance performed, at your expense, by the Great American Maintenance Company, Inc., voids this warranty.

While you cannot use a tie-in sales provision, your warranty need not cover use of replacement parts, repairs, or maintenance that is inappropriate for your product. The following is an example of a permissible provision that excludes coverage of such things.


While necessary maintenance or repairs on your AudioMundo Stereo System can be performed by any company, we recommend that you use only authorized AudioMundo dealers. Improper or incorrectly performed maintenance or repair voids this warranty.

Although tie-in sales provisions generally are not allowed, you can include such a provision in your warranty if you can demonstrate to the satisfaction of the FTC that your product will not work properly without a specified item or service. If you believe that this is the case, you should contact the warranty staff of the FTC's Bureau of Consumer Protection for information on how to apply for a waiver of the tie-in sales prohibition.

http://www.mlmlaw.com/library/guides/ftc/warranties/undermag.htm
 
Originally Posted By: NeuroticHapiSnak
There are rumors of a Stella 200 coming in 2015, though no solid facts.

You know, had I not been set on the Stella, I might have bought a GZ250, I love those little Japanese standard bikes like the Honda CB.


been in both corrals in the past...like the Stella styling, but not the 'hit or miss' reliability of the '09 Stella 2T I had; had a GZ250 for a short while in 2012...convinced myself that I wanted my scooter back, so the shop reversed the deal, kept $300, and I got my '09 Buddy 125 and most of my money back; lately I've been missing a 'small bike' and didn't find any Honda Rebel 250's or Yamaha V Stars or Virago 250's that I could afford at a local dealer (needed my '13 Buddy 125 as trade collateral to make the deal work) and found my latest GZ250; it lacks in some areas and shines in others...basically it is a small displacement bike that gets me from place to place with a more steady ride than a scooter with 10" wheels!
 
Neuro: I think you're overworrying the oil thing. Rotella T 15-40 has been upgraded to MA2 and when WX gets cold go with Rotella T6 5-40...also MA2. Two hard to beat oils.
 
I actually picked up 2 gallons of T5 15w-40 onsale for $12.99.

I was hoping this scooter wasn't too hard on oil but checking the oil today, the Resolute 20w50 seemed a little thin at room temp, it never dripped off the dipstick cold when it was new. Felt a little between my fingers and it felt more like the 5w30 I use in my car than the fresh 20w50s I've used. Maybe Resolute 20w50 just isn't very shear stable in a shared sump. Only 400mi on the oil, but it was only $2/qt, so I guess it won't be too much of a loss to dump it.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, it seemed a little thin at temp, like maybe it dropped to a 40wt, but it was super thin at room temp, nowhere near as thick as a fresh 20w-50. Changed out to T5, a lot smooth and less clunky (There is no such thing as a not clunky Vespa gearbox, it's just part of the design.) shifting, better than the Resolute new. come to think of it, I did notice the shift quality start to get worse on the Resolute. Thought it might be because I started to shift quicker and at higher RPM as I got more used to the scooter. But the T5 gives the same quality shift no matter how quick you shift or at what RPM.

Also, what oil temps would be considered safe? Today I saw 222.5*F after fighting through a head wind at WOT.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top