40AMP + Charger/Power Supply

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Ndx

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Hi Guys,

For programming ECU's most manufactures require a Charger to be plugged in the car 40AMP +
Any recommendation's ?

There are so many on Amazon.
 
40 amp is ridiculous. I understand wanting to keep things alive so the battery doesn't go kaput during a reflash but 6 amps is more than enough. I'd worry about 60 hz noise getting into the system if you crank it up too much.
 
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Diehard-15A-Automotive-Battery-Charger/16550309

I have one of these I got at Meijer for $40 but they sell them at Walmart too and Amazon.

I can't imagine this not being enough with a 15 amp automatically controlled charge it works great on my batteries and charges them perfectly every time.

It's probably important to keep fully charge the battery before you begin too.

If you insist on a 40 amp charger this black and Decker looks pretty solid but pricy.

http://www.autobarn.net/black-and-decker...CFVJnOgodpjUALw
 
As much as I think that 40A is a lot but ... Porsche thinks that its minimum ...
 
I agree with eljefino, 40amps is ridiculous. What is the source of this recommendation? 40 amps is more appropriate for boosting a discharged battery to start the car. 6amps should do for programming.
 
This is official information from service manual
 
I'm guessing that the ECU mfg wants you to have a stable voltage in a worst case scenario (doors open and interior lights drawing power, ignition on, headlights on, etc.), especially since some programs can take a while to load.
 
Actually I just went back it says 70AMP power supply or battery charger

YES 70
 
Hello Eddie,

That's the problem during programming a lot elements might be cycled etc ...
 
Originally Posted By: Ndx
Hello Eddie,

That's the problem during programming a lot elements might be cycled etc ...


Most cigarette lighter sockets in vehicles are fused at 15 Amps, and fuses work the same regardless of the direction of current flow. The fuse does not know if the current is flowing (TO whatever is plugged into the socket), or if current is flowing (FROM a charger plugged into the socket) in either case if you exceed the current rating of the fuse, the fuse will blow, fuses are by directional but will blow at the same amount of current regardless of the direction of flow. So look at the fuse for the cigarette and if you are going to plug a charger into that circuit the fuse value in Amps is the largest amount of current your charger will ever be able to supply to the vehicle from the charger plugged into the lighter socket.

Now if you were connecting the charger to the battery connections of the vehicle then you could use a charger with a higher current capacity.
 
I don't see any automatic chargers in that range. You don't want a 70 amp manual current going to a full battery and you don't want to do anything to the ecu without your battery full. I suggest you see what others are using for this specific application.

If you want one of the best chargers on the market with advanced Micro processor I would look at a Noco Genius. They make a very nice 26 amp charger but it's over $200.

http://www.geniuschargers.com/G26000
 
Guys, don't confuse a battery charger with a programming power supply. Chargers are just that, but the power supplies made for programming (or a battery charger that has the capability built in) maintains system voltage at a constant 13.5- 14.5 volts (depending on model) regardless of the load on the system. They also run considerably more than the typical battery charger.
 
Just for another view on programming vehicles. This is actually my job responsibility at my GM plant. We program all new vehicles on line only with battery power. No chargers connected and this initial programming takes up to 3 minutes because after programming we do a test cycle. This in plant process is extremely fast and only available to the plants...dealer and aftermarket rely on slower processes with a TEch 2 or MDI set up. So, basically the battery is installed in the truck and a few minutes later down line we hook up and program everything. Since we program so fast - no charger is needed.

Most programming after the assembly plant are individual calibration files and such and not that long in time duration.

The most important thing to have is a fully charged battery. GM does recommend, in service info for dealers, is to verify a fully charged battery and put a low amp charger on if needed because it does take several more minutes to program than at the plant. At the plant we rarely put chargers on unless it is a long repair in which we will put a small 10 amp charger on the truck.

So my opinion is that only a small charge is needed to maintain the battery at a level acceptable for programming. I would not want 40+ amps going in but if an auto maker recommends this - than by all means follow that recommendation since there must be a reason.
 
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Thank you for your input! Very interesting information.

Actually service manual calls for - 70AMP
This seems to be same for BMW 70AMP-80AMP power supply.

I wonder if this just depends on manufacturer and amount of the modules that are in the car and need to be powered in KEY ON position.

I'm hunting down a charger/power supply made by schummacher that has 70AMP and adjustable voltage - they are a little bit expensive new .. but I'm not in a rush.

Thank you.
 
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