Kohler engine, cracked block(PICS)
- Thread starter tig1
- Start date
- Status
Don't use that iron-leaching M1...
Just kidding.
How many hours on it, and what was it in?
Just kidding.
How many hours on it, and what was it in?
I think you are showing off your nice welding skills.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Taildragger
I think you are showing off your nice welding skills.
what he said
...nice
I think you are showing off your nice welding skills.
what he said
MolaKule
Staff member
Originally Posted By: DSparks
Originally Posted By: Taildragger
I think you are showing off your nice welding skills.
what he said
...nice
I only wish my skills were half that good.
Originally Posted By: Taildragger
I think you are showing off your nice welding skills.
what he said
I only wish my skills were half that good.
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: DSparks
Originally Posted By: Taildragger
I think you are showing off your nice welding skills.
what he said
...nice
I only wish my skills were half that good.
I wish tig was my next door neighbor!
Originally Posted By: DSparks
Originally Posted By: Taildragger
I think you are showing off your nice welding skills.
what he said
I only wish my skills were half that good.
I wish tig was my next door neighbor!
Which series Kohler engine is this?
I know the earlier Courage series had issues with the crankcase cover bolts loosening up, allowing radial movement of the crankshaft and kaBOOM.
The problem with checking the torque on these bolts is some of them are covered up by the flywheel.
I know the earlier Courage series had issues with the crankcase cover bolts loosening up, allowing radial movement of the crankshaft and kaBOOM.
The problem with checking the torque on these bolts is some of them are covered up by the flywheel.
Too much arc length. LOL
you dont want to see my arc(stick) welding
Have a really old lincolnwelder 220v at the shop.
you can crank it up and have a torch REAL easy
'
looks like this one only older
http://images.hemmings.com/wp-content/uploads//2011/05/MikesAC225_700.jpg
not all kohler are created equal. For example the 10-14hp models used in mid 70's+ john deere 200 series are fairly desirable.
Need to know more about the motor.
Have a really old lincolnwelder 220v at the shop.
you can crank it up and have a torch REAL easy
'looks like this one only older
http://images.hemmings.com/wp-content/uploads//2011/05/MikesAC225_700.jpg
not all kohler are created equal. For example the 10-14hp models used in mid 70's+ john deere 200 series are fairly desirable.
Need to know more about the motor.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: tig1
The owner said this engine is from a Troy Built mower.
Yeah, it will likely blow apart again if he didn't snug those bolts on the CC cover. They're kind of an inverted crankcase design to help reduce oil leak sources. Cover is on top as opposed to bottom like most OPE engines.
The owner said this engine is from a Troy Built mower.
Yeah, it will likely blow apart again if he didn't snug those bolts on the CC cover. They're kind of an inverted crankcase design to help reduce oil leak sources. Cover is on top as opposed to bottom like most OPE engines.
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: tig1
The owner said this engine is from a Troy Built mower.
Yeah, it will likely blow apart again if he didn't snug those bolts on the CC cover. They're kind of an inverted crankcase design to help reduce oil leak sources. Cover is on top as opposed to bottom like most OPE engines.
As I said, this is the second Kohler engine I have repaired. The first one was two years ago and it's still OK. So I guess this is a Kohler design flaw.
Originally Posted By: tig1
The owner said this engine is from a Troy Built mower.
Yeah, it will likely blow apart again if he didn't snug those bolts on the CC cover. They're kind of an inverted crankcase design to help reduce oil leak sources. Cover is on top as opposed to bottom like most OPE engines.
As I said, this is the second Kohler engine I have repaired. The first one was two years ago and it's still OK. So I guess this is a Kohler design flaw.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: tig1
The owner said this engine is from a Troy Built mower.
Yeah, it will likely blow apart again if he didn't snug those bolts on the CC cover. They're kind of an inverted crankcase design to help reduce oil leak sources. Cover is on top as opposed to bottom like most OPE engines.
As I said, this is the second Kohler engine I have repaired. The first one was two years ago and it's still OK. So I guess this is a Kohler design flaw.
Was this a V-Twin or single cylinder kohler?
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: tig1
The owner said this engine is from a Troy Built mower.
Yeah, it will likely blow apart again if he didn't snug those bolts on the CC cover. They're kind of an inverted crankcase design to help reduce oil leak sources. Cover is on top as opposed to bottom like most OPE engines.
As I said, this is the second Kohler engine I have repaired. The first one was two years ago and it's still OK. So I guess this is a Kohler design flaw.
Was this a V-Twin or single cylinder kohler?
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: tig1
The owner said this engine is from a Troy Built mower.
Yeah, it will likely blow apart again if he didn't snug those bolts on the CC cover. They're kind of an inverted crankcase design to help reduce oil leak sources. Cover is on top as opposed to bottom like most OPE engines.
As I said, this is the second Kohler engine I have repaired. The first one was two years ago and it's still OK. So I guess this is a Kohler design flaw.
Was this a V-Twin or single cylinder kohler?
Single cylinder.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: tig1
The owner said this engine is from a Troy Built mower.
Yeah, it will likely blow apart again if he didn't snug those bolts on the CC cover. They're kind of an inverted crankcase design to help reduce oil leak sources. Cover is on top as opposed to bottom like most OPE engines.
As I said, this is the second Kohler engine I have repaired. The first one was two years ago and it's still OK. So I guess this is a Kohler design flaw.
Was this a V-Twin or single cylinder kohler?
Single cylinder.
It looks like it welded up pretty cleanly for you... was there a lot of [censored] floating up in the puddle? Which rod did you end up using? 4043? I haven't welded on aluminum in years but always hated doing the castings especially if oil soaked lol. It definitely looks like either a design flaw or a loose bolt that caused it. If it was me i'd probably throw some thread lock on the bolts too just so they don't come loose.
Originally Posted By: 137_Trenton
It looks like it welded up pretty cleanly for you... was there a lot of [censored] floating up in the puddle? Which rod did you end up using? 4043? I haven't welded on aluminum in years but always hated doing the castings especially if oil soaked lol. It definitely looks like either a design flaw or a loose bolt that caused it. If it was me i'd probably throw some thread lock on the bolts too just so they don't come loose.
Any casting, alum, cast iron, cast bronze, will absord what every makes contact with it. Oil, minerals in water, etc. I cleaned the surface well, then polished the oxidation around the weld area. Groung out the cracks with a die grinder then cleaned again with brake clean to remove as much oil as possible. I did need to re-grind a couple of spots and re-weld.
It looks like it welded up pretty cleanly for you... was there a lot of [censored] floating up in the puddle? Which rod did you end up using? 4043? I haven't welded on aluminum in years but always hated doing the castings especially if oil soaked lol. It definitely looks like either a design flaw or a loose bolt that caused it. If it was me i'd probably throw some thread lock on the bolts too just so they don't come loose.
Any casting, alum, cast iron, cast bronze, will absord what every makes contact with it. Oil, minerals in water, etc. I cleaned the surface well, then polished the oxidation around the weld area. Groung out the cracks with a die grinder then cleaned again with brake clean to remove as much oil as possible. I did need to re-grind a couple of spots and re-weld.
Beautiful work Tig! I too wish you were my next-door-neighbor!
- Status
Similar threads
