Wife's 07 Highlander (150k) and MIL's 09 (100k) Camry have the 2AZ-FE engine. Have been running Mobil Super 5w20 with 5k OCI. Will this conventional oil and OCI promote this condition?
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Conditions that promote sludge in 2AZ-FE?
- Thread starter Back40
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I have/had similar situation.
My wife's 2006 Highlander has 175,000 miles on it and no sludge or oil related problems. I change this oil at 5K intervals with Pennzoil or Mobil Super 5000 (both dino). I also change the PCV valve every 30K, just to be sure - the valve always looks decent when I change it. It consumes ~1 quart of oil in the 5K interval and is running sweet!
My former Camry (sold @ 240,000 miles last year - just tired of driving it) used 1 qt of oil every 2K miles when I traded it. I was running 8-10K OCI with Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1 5W-20. Same thing with PCV valve - replaced every 30K; old one was never ugly. This car also ran very sweet and got great mileage.
My best "secret" was drain/refill the ATF every 30K also. Your Highlander will take T-IV fluid, the Camry will take WS. Both cars transmissions still feel/felt like brand new.
My wife's 2006 Highlander has 175,000 miles on it and no sludge or oil related problems. I change this oil at 5K intervals with Pennzoil or Mobil Super 5000 (both dino). I also change the PCV valve every 30K, just to be sure - the valve always looks decent when I change it. It consumes ~1 quart of oil in the 5K interval and is running sweet!
My former Camry (sold @ 240,000 miles last year - just tired of driving it) used 1 qt of oil every 2K miles when I traded it. I was running 8-10K OCI with Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1 5W-20. Same thing with PCV valve - replaced every 30K; old one was never ugly. This car also ran very sweet and got great mileage.
My best "secret" was drain/refill the ATF every 30K also. Your Highlander will take T-IV fluid, the Camry will take WS. Both cars transmissions still feel/felt like brand new.
don't depend on the OCI, look at your driving habit/trips,
dino will work fine for regular use, engine allowed to warm to operating temp and then ran for x mins/miles.
I had a few sludge monsters in the family. My own I ran syn "just to be safe". just keep dino but change quicker around summers or questionable use.
dino will work fine for regular use, engine allowed to warm to operating temp and then ran for x mins/miles.
I had a few sludge monsters in the family. My own I ran syn "just to be safe". just keep dino but change quicker around summers or questionable use.
Originally Posted By: oily boyd
I have/had similar situation.
My wife's 2006 Highlander has 175,000 miles on it and no sludge or oil related problems. I change this oil at 5K intervals with Pennzoil or Mobil Super 5000 (both dino). I also change the PCV valve every 30K, just to be sure - the valve always looks decent when I change it. It consumes ~1 quart of oil in the 5K interval and is running sweet!
My former Camry (sold @ 240,000 miles last year - just tired of driving it) used 1 qt of oil every 2K miles when I traded it. I was running 8-10K OCI with Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1 5W-20. Same thing with PCV valve - replaced every 30K; old one was never ugly. This car also ran very sweet and got great mileage.
My best "secret" was drain/refill the ATF every 30K also. Your Highlander will take T-IV fluid, the Camry will take WS. Both cars transmissions still feel/felt like brand new.
OILY BOYD, did you ever have to do a valve adjustment on either of your 2AZ-FE's? just curious if I'll have to worry about doing that someday on my Scion. It doesn't appear to be cheap, even if you do it yourself.
I have/had similar situation.
My wife's 2006 Highlander has 175,000 miles on it and no sludge or oil related problems. I change this oil at 5K intervals with Pennzoil or Mobil Super 5000 (both dino). I also change the PCV valve every 30K, just to be sure - the valve always looks decent when I change it. It consumes ~1 quart of oil in the 5K interval and is running sweet!
My former Camry (sold @ 240,000 miles last year - just tired of driving it) used 1 qt of oil every 2K miles when I traded it. I was running 8-10K OCI with Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1 5W-20. Same thing with PCV valve - replaced every 30K; old one was never ugly. This car also ran very sweet and got great mileage.
My best "secret" was drain/refill the ATF every 30K also. Your Highlander will take T-IV fluid, the Camry will take WS. Both cars transmissions still feel/felt like brand new.
OILY BOYD, did you ever have to do a valve adjustment on either of your 2AZ-FE's? just curious if I'll have to worry about doing that someday on my Scion. It doesn't appear to be cheap, even if you do it yourself.
Nope, this engine has hydraulic lash adjustment.
You may have heard about the timing chain tensioner causing rattling, though. No problems with either of mine but it is replaced from outside the engine, so not $$$.
Also, these engines are not "sludge monsters", a term used in another post in this thread.
You may have heard about the timing chain tensioner causing rattling, though. No problems with either of mine but it is replaced from outside the engine, so not $$$.
Also, these engines are not "sludge monsters", a term used in another post in this thread.
Originally Posted By: Back40
Wife's 07 Highlander (150k) and MIL's 09 (100k) Camry have the 2AZ-FE engine. Have been running Mobil Super 5w20 with 5k OCI. Will this conventional oil and OCI promote this condition?
No. I have one of those but run pennzoil platinum. I think that Pennzoil yellow bottle might be a better choice if you want to stick with a conventional oil. But you are already at 150k with one and 100k with the other. I would recommend you replace the PCV valves in both.
Wife's 07 Highlander (150k) and MIL's 09 (100k) Camry have the 2AZ-FE engine. Have been running Mobil Super 5w20 with 5k OCI. Will this conventional oil and OCI promote this condition?
No. I have one of those but run pennzoil platinum. I think that Pennzoil yellow bottle might be a better choice if you want to stick with a conventional oil. But you are already at 150k with one and 100k with the other. I would recommend you replace the PCV valves in both.
Originally Posted By: oily boyd
Nope, this engine has hydraulic lash adjustment.
You may have heard about the timing chain tensioner causing rattling, though. No problems with either of mine but it is replaced from outside the engine, so not $$$.
Also, these engines are not "sludge monsters", a term used in another post in this thread.
no I'm pretty sure the 2az-fe is a cam on bucket style valvetrain and the buckets have to be changed to adjust the valve lash
Nope, this engine has hydraulic lash adjustment.
You may have heard about the timing chain tensioner causing rattling, though. No problems with either of mine but it is replaced from outside the engine, so not $$$.
Also, these engines are not "sludge monsters", a term used in another post in this thread.
no I'm pretty sure the 2az-fe is a cam on bucket style valvetrain and the buckets have to be changed to adjust the valve lash
wifey's 2AZ-FE has over 180k on it, we run a mix of whatever we can obtain at a reasonable price. Been running on either PYB or QState green for the past 6+ yrs.
I'm not aware of it being sludge prone, so please don't come along and assume all engines will sludge up (properly maintained car engines seldom sludge up these days, only those that have been severely neglected will....and otherwise complacent owners will run around scared looking for quick fixes all over the internet.
Q.
I'm not aware of it being sludge prone, so please don't come along and assume all engines will sludge up (properly maintained car engines seldom sludge up these days, only those that have been severely neglected will....and otherwise complacent owners will run around scared looking for quick fixes all over the internet.
Q.
2008 2AZ-FE in my fleet. Consumes 2 quarts of oil in a 5K mile OCI. Not too thrilled about it, but oil consumption is a pretty common complaint with this engine. It does have more varnish buildup on the dipstick than the other cars I maintain for some reason.
FYI: toyota raised the overhead temp to lower emissions many years back, this raised temp causes oil degradation, aka sludge monster.
Oil consumption: this is NOT normal, I redline very often, and I never had oil consumption. I did however have fuel dilution in a honda v6, I could not go above 3 to 4k cuz of fuel dilution.
UOA is your fiend to know your engine, use it to set a baseline and then follow it.
Tranny: add a factory tranny cooler if it is an option and drain and fill 20k to 30k depending on driving and outside temps.
Oil consumption: this is NOT normal, I redline very often, and I never had oil consumption. I did however have fuel dilution in a honda v6, I could not go above 3 to 4k cuz of fuel dilution.
UOA is your fiend to know your engine, use it to set a baseline and then follow it.
Tranny: add a factory tranny cooler if it is an option and drain and fill 20k to 30k depending on driving and outside temps.
Originally Posted By: afoulk
Originally Posted By: oily boyd
Nope, this engine has hydraulic lash adjustment.
You may have heard about the timing chain tensioner causing rattling, though. No problems with either of mine but it is replaced from outside the engine, so not $$$.
Also, these engines are not "sludge monsters", a term used in another post in this thread.
no I'm pretty sure the 2az-fe is a cam on bucket style valvetrain and the buckets have to be changed to adjust the valve lash
My mistake - you are correct. I do not remember any valve adjustment interval in the owners manual, though.
Originally Posted By: oily boyd
Nope, this engine has hydraulic lash adjustment.
You may have heard about the timing chain tensioner causing rattling, though. No problems with either of mine but it is replaced from outside the engine, so not $$$.
Also, these engines are not "sludge monsters", a term used in another post in this thread.
no I'm pretty sure the 2az-fe is a cam on bucket style valvetrain and the buckets have to be changed to adjust the valve lash
My mistake - you are correct. I do not remember any valve adjustment interval in the owners manual, though.
I don't often find a 2AZ-FE engine with sludge, I just some some with the usual amount of varnish.
Many of them would leak from the oil pan gasket, but it wouldn't leak at a rate of 2qt between changes.
The reason people got concerned over sludge in the 2AZ-FE is because at the same time, Toyota was selling 1MZ-FE and 3MZ-FE engines that had a greater risk of developing sludge.
Back when mom had her 2002 Solara 2.4, she received something in the mail from Toyota, trying to ease her feelings of concern. I reminded her that using the proper oil and changing every 3000 miles will never result in this engine developing sludge problems.
Many of them would leak from the oil pan gasket, but it wouldn't leak at a rate of 2qt between changes.
The reason people got concerned over sludge in the 2AZ-FE is because at the same time, Toyota was selling 1MZ-FE and 3MZ-FE engines that had a greater risk of developing sludge.
Back when mom had her 2002 Solara 2.4, she received something in the mail from Toyota, trying to ease her feelings of concern. I reminded her that using the proper oil and changing every 3000 miles will never result in this engine developing sludge problems.
Originally Posted By: stockrex
Oil consumption: this is NOT normal, I redline very often, and I never had oil consumption.
Toyota issued a TSB for excessive oil consumption. My mothers 2AZ-FE eats 2 quarts in 5K miles, which is apparently "within spec".
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Toyota released T-SB-0094-11
"Some 2006 – 2011 model year vehicles equipped with the 2AZ-FE engine may exhibit engine oil consumption. The piston assembly has been changed to minimize oil consumption. Use the following repair procedure to address this condition."
YEAR(S) MODEL(S) ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
2007 – 2011 Camry HV, Engine(s): 2AZ, VDS(s): BB3EK, BB46K
2007 – 2009 Camry, Engine(s): 2AZ, VDS(s): BE46K
2009 Corolla, Engine(s): 2AZ, VDS(s): BE40E
2009 Matrix, Engine(s): 2AZ, VDS(s): GE40E, KE40E, LE40E
2006 – 2008 RAV4, Engine(s): 2AZ, VDS(s): BD31V, BD32V, BD33V, BD34V, BD35V, ZD31V, ZD32V, ZD33V, ZD34V, ZD35V
2007 – 2008 Solara, Engine(s): 2AZ, VDS(s): CE30P
Inspection Procedure
NOTE
In some cases, a P030# (cylinder # misfire detected) DTC may also be set as a result of oil consumption.
Perform an oil consumption test to determine the consumption rate.
1. Confirm the engine oil level is full.
2. Mark the oil dipstick to indicate the current level.
3. Replace the oil dipstick.
4. Mark the oil dipstick, oil drain plug, and oil fill cap to prevent/indicate tampering during the test.
HINT
Use tape, sealer, cable ties, or equivalent to mark the oil dipstick, oil drain plug, and oil fill cap.
5. Advise the customer to drive the vehicle normally for 1,200 miles and return for inspection.
6. Determine the quantity of oil that was consumed in 1,200 miles.
Was the oil level more than 1 quart low after 1,200 miles of normal driving?
YES — Go to the Repair Procedure.
NO — This TSB does NOT apply. Warranty guideline for acceptable oil consumption is 1 quart per 1,200 miles of operation. No warranty claim should be filed.
Oil consumption: this is NOT normal, I redline very often, and I never had oil consumption.
Toyota issued a TSB for excessive oil consumption. My mothers 2AZ-FE eats 2 quarts in 5K miles, which is apparently "within spec".
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Toyota released T-SB-0094-11
"Some 2006 – 2011 model year vehicles equipped with the 2AZ-FE engine may exhibit engine oil consumption. The piston assembly has been changed to minimize oil consumption. Use the following repair procedure to address this condition."
YEAR(S) MODEL(S) ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
2007 – 2011 Camry HV, Engine(s): 2AZ, VDS(s): BB3EK, BB46K
2007 – 2009 Camry, Engine(s): 2AZ, VDS(s): BE46K
2009 Corolla, Engine(s): 2AZ, VDS(s): BE40E
2009 Matrix, Engine(s): 2AZ, VDS(s): GE40E, KE40E, LE40E
2006 – 2008 RAV4, Engine(s): 2AZ, VDS(s): BD31V, BD32V, BD33V, BD34V, BD35V, ZD31V, ZD32V, ZD33V, ZD34V, ZD35V
2007 – 2008 Solara, Engine(s): 2AZ, VDS(s): CE30P
Inspection Procedure
NOTE
In some cases, a P030# (cylinder # misfire detected) DTC may also be set as a result of oil consumption.
Perform an oil consumption test to determine the consumption rate.
1. Confirm the engine oil level is full.
2. Mark the oil dipstick to indicate the current level.
3. Replace the oil dipstick.
4. Mark the oil dipstick, oil drain plug, and oil fill cap to prevent/indicate tampering during the test.
HINT
Use tape, sealer, cable ties, or equivalent to mark the oil dipstick, oil drain plug, and oil fill cap.
5. Advise the customer to drive the vehicle normally for 1,200 miles and return for inspection.
6. Determine the quantity of oil that was consumed in 1,200 miles.
Was the oil level more than 1 quart low after 1,200 miles of normal driving?
YES — Go to the Repair Procedure.
NO — This TSB does NOT apply. Warranty guideline for acceptable oil consumption is 1 quart per 1,200 miles of operation. No warranty claim should be filed.
Interesting that it covers ones made between 2006-2011. Did they make some kind of change in the middle of production?
That would explain why my mom's 2002 Solara never consumed oil, unfortunately it was totaled around 60,000 miles by a drunk driver, so my comparison may not be fair.
Did 2006-2011 models use a different grade of oil? The 2002 mom had called for 5w30, and in extreme heat, 10w30 was allowed. I don't know if at a certain year, Toyota specified 5w20 or 0w20.
That would explain why my mom's 2002 Solara never consumed oil, unfortunately it was totaled around 60,000 miles by a drunk driver, so my comparison may not be fair.
Did 2006-2011 models use a different grade of oil? The 2002 mom had called for 5w30, and in extreme heat, 10w30 was allowed. I don't know if at a certain year, Toyota specified 5w20 or 0w20.
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