.223 Wolf "Gold" Ammo?

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Has anyone tried the aforementioned in an AR-15? This is the brass cased, boxer primed (and crimped) ammo. I see it available fairly cheap and thought I may try some for target practice with my boys.

Anyone have any feedback?
 
The older Wolf Gold made by Prvi was good stuff, comparable to Federal American Eagle. Cases were good for reloading too.

I was unaware that the supplier changed to Taiwan.
 
The Taiwanese Wolf Gold is G2G. I just finished off a case through my 6920. No failures, accuracy was just as good as any other bulk ammunition.
 
the thing with wolf ammo and any russian ammo is "bullet leade"
the bullet ogive shape tends to get fatter sooner and on a gun built tight for accuracy as the round loads into the chamber the bullet contacts the rifling within the barrel.
the barrel is .223 but the round maximum diameter is .224. and when the fattest part of the round contacts the rifling you cannot push it further by hand nor by the spring force behind the bolt. this is why some russian ammo happens to misfeed in certain guns and not others.

i haven't shot wolf gold, but the standard wolf fmj steel case has a longer leade. the silver bear hollow point .223 does not. and i can't remember how the others compare.
if you stand a bullet up on a table on it's base you can easily see the differences between american ammo vs russian stuff and see where the problem happens.

i've only observed all this at the range. given the state i live in, i don't own any rifles or own any rifle ammo nor would i ever admit that. bite me malloy.
 
Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
the thing with wolf ammo and any russian ammo is "bullet leade"
the bullet ogive shape tends to get fatter sooner and on a gun built tight for accuracy as the round loads into the chamber the bullet contacts the rifling within the barrel.


Based on what you said, it seems that if a round was chambered/cycled through the gun without firing, then you might see slight impressions on the bullet where it contacts the rifling (?).
 
Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
the bullet ogive shape tends to get fatter sooner and on a gun built tight for accuracy as the round loads into the chamber the bullet contacts the rifling within the barrel.

I would be using this for target and plinking ammunition so it would not need to be overly "engineered". However, I would have to say that I would not want the bullets to contact the rifling (from the start) without knowing how "hot" the round is. I fully understand the relation of the bullet to the rifling and accuracy (I have custom rifles and handload). But bullets already into the rifling before firing could cause higher pressures that you really want--especially with a semi-auto and an AR bolt (unless longevity is not really an issue to consider).
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
the thing with wolf ammo and any russian ammo is "bullet leade"
the bullet ogive shape tends to get fatter sooner and on a gun built tight for accuracy as the round loads into the chamber the bullet contacts the rifling within the barrel.


Based on what you said, it seems that if a round was chambered/cycled through the gun without firing, then you might see slight impressions on the bullet where it contacts the rifling (?).


worse. if the round does chamber and the bolt goes fully forward on the AR and locks, then the round will be stuck in the rifling and you will not be able to manually eject it and would have to pry the bolt back with leverage from a screwdriver from through the mag well. or when the bolt doesn't lock, you hit the forward assist and sometimes you can push the bolt forward to lock and fire the round, but when you can't then your back to prying the bolt back from underneath because you cannot do it by pulling back on the charging handle. the final thing i think is trying to fire the round when the bolt is not fully closed and locked not sure what would actually happen to tend to happen, the shoulder of the round i believe would not be supported in the barrel so the casing i assume would then expand and maybe split and get stuck, or blow the bolt back violently.
 
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4

But bullets already into the rifling before firing could cause higher pressures that you really want--especially with a semi-auto and an AR bolt (unless longevity is not really an issue to consider).


i believe that's the case, but generally wolf ammo i've noticed doesn't kick as hard as XM193 and from what i've shot i've never had evidence of over pressure on the casing after it ejected.

you can see the difference in overall lengths. the case sizes are all the exact same, only difference is in bullet shape and how far it protrudes from the case. sorry i couldn't find a wolf fmj. it was the wolf hp ammo that i've seen cause the problems. i can't remember if the wolf fmj still caused problems or if it was worse than the wolf hp. (hp=hollow point). the brown bear was lead soft point.
so when someone tells you (especially a gun store worker) that if you shoot russian ammo that your warranty is void on your .223 rifle, ask what specially is the problem with russian ammo.
asnwers like just because or that it's not quality ammo are invalid.
the reasons why some guns fire it fine and others don't is in the picture below.

 
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Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
you can see the difference in overall lengths. the case sizes are all the exact same, only difference is in bullet shape and how far it protrudes from the case.


However, without measuring OAL from the ogive at the point where it actually becomes .224 to the base gives little in the way of consistency or accurate measurements. Additionally, visually longer does not necessarily mean that it is longer in the chamber or that it is touching the rifling due to where .224 actually starts on the bullet.

I also do not believe these bullets are all the same weight which would change the overall length too. Specifically, I believe the yellow and green tipped bullets are 40-45 grain and the others are 55 grain--except the spitzer is likely heavier at 63+ grains...
 
they are 55 gr. except for the M855 and brown bear SP which are 62 gr.

i've found the wolf green case in hp and fmj in 55 gr. to be the most problematic. the brown bear soft point has been fine. i've seen some silver bear i forget which bullet type but that was ok so i want to say there was better luck with 62 gr ammo.

so my point which i don't think i said yet was don't assume that wolf gold because it's brass cased and looks quality like American brass .223 will not give you a problem. the problem i don't think has ever been with the casings, it's with the type of bullet. so for the original poster if you're looking to buy a case of wolf gold, you might want to buy one box first and verify all 20 feed and eject manually by hand with no problems. the best thing to do i think is chamber every round softly to see if any stick and prevent the bolt from going fully forward. this way if that does happen you have a better chance of ejecting it by normal means because the bullet hasn't been rammed hard and now stuck in the rifling.
 
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