SuperTech went into my BMW!

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JHZR2

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Settle down... Into the 91 318i.

The car runs beautifully. But as I posted in a thread this summer, I lose oil fairly fast. Id say about a quart every 750 miles! I have no indication that it leaks, but I also don't have good indication that Im burning it - never any smoke, no signs in the tailpipe, and it is pretty intermittent. I was at least 400 miles in and only less than 1/4 qt down, but then after around 900 miles, it was over a quart... So little in the first 400 (which included some high speed highway driving), and then a lot the next 500 (which also had a lot of fast driving, plus more slow, which Im pretty sure I don't consume or lose oil from). That is how it has gone for the last maybe 20k miles.

Car runs like a top, again no smoke, no odd starting, plugs look good. I do have a lifter tick at cold start... But in case its consuming and not leaking out on the roadway (never seen a drop in my driveway), I went to cheap ST 5w-30 API SN/ILSAC GF-5. Why? Because I figure it is stouter than most 10w-30 or even 10w-40s were 25 years ago, and it way lowers my ZDDP level in interest of protecting emissions.

Here was what is specced in the OM:

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Of course, I know that MB specced the same viscosity twice as the specs allowed some to be more stout. While this isn't ACEA A3, the latest specs (though not DEXOS or HTO-06) are surely better than the old days.

I may change to 10w-30 or something, and in the summer Ill put in a 40wt again. But with the cold winter we have been having, I figure this is a good bet.

But so the question... How warm would you go on 5w-30 given the age and specs per the above chart... And modern oil specs???
 
Originally Posted By: rw19
I would bet that a modern dino oil is BETTER than a 91 Syn oil.


Maybe not better, perhaps the PAO base stock in early 90s syn is better than the Grp I/II in ST. But given ambient temps when Ill use it, Ill take the lower ZDDP just in case...
 
Why aren't you considering a brand name conventional oil for a few dollars more?

Why have you not considered a HDEO 10W-30? Or Shell T5?
 
Originally Posted By: sunfire
Why aren't you considering a brand name conventional oil for a few dollars more?

Why have you not considered a HDEO 10W-30? Or Shell T5?


Because the car is losing oil at a rate of a quart every 750 miles. Why should I pay more for it to be burned or end up on the ground?

I hope to get to the bottom of the consumption/leak when spring arrives. When I need a stouter oil, Ill use it. If an HDEO 10w-30 or T5 isn't ILSAC GF-5, it has more ZDDP, which defeats my purpose...
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Because the car is losing oil at a rate of a quart every 750 miles.


At that rate I wouldn't even drive it if that's an option. I recently replaced an intake manifold gasket in my car. And I noticed a thin motor oil film on everything. The PCV hose still had a few drops of oil. The car probably loses 1oz or less (not detectable on the dip stick) of motor oil per OCI. Which I'm really PO about. The oil film at high temperatures will harden into carbon/deposit buildup in the area near the intake valves. I'm sure you've seen those pictures. Now I'm looking for an oil catch can to catch the oil so I don't have to keep cleaning it annually.

I'm curious what your intake looks like... it better not be cleaner than mine.
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Is this an M 10 ,4 cyl? My first 528e used a qt in 1500 miles. Most was due to a weepy head gasket. The rate of oil consumption wasn't that bad compared to some of my cars. It had a low oil level light. So it was no big deal to manage. I saw no sense in doing a head job on an other wise fine running engine.It had 150 K on it and it got Supertech 20w50 for 200K additional miles. Have you considered 20 w 50?
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What do you think might happen if you use the oil weight (for your seasonal ambient temperature) that BMW suggest
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Aside from that, if you are burning oil, it's either Rings or Valves.
My money says Valve seals.
A High Mileage oil can work wonders (as can new seals)
 
5w-30 is right for the seasonal temperature right now! I've already run hm oils. The car has some rust underneath, so I'd kind of prefer to leave that job to someone I can give the car to in a year or two when were in the market for a minivan. Hm oils don't help, nor did Kreen or auto ex in quieting the lifter tick. If I was able to pinpoint the bad lifter, I'd replace that. No matter how much mechanics stethoscope I use, I can't ID which one it is...
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
Is this an M 10 ,4 cyl? ... 20w-50
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No, M42... I might consider it! When the temperatures are right... Thing is, if it's consuming, then the zddp will be much higher...
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Because the car is losing oil at a rate of a quart every 750 miles. Why should I pay more for it to be burned or end up on the ground?

You need Canadian Supertech 5w-30, which is available in the five gallon pail.
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I'd probably run it a little into the spring, provided you're not driving the snot out of it. I don't know if you mentioned it, but have you tried a HM oil in there? It might be worth a try.

As for phosphorous content, anything that is going to be thicker than an ILSAC grade (HDEO or not) could easily have elevated levels. The only exception I can think of is Delvac 1 LE 5w-30, but if you're anything like me, you don't want to be dumping synthetic into something that's consuming it like crazy.

When I have consumption and want to see when it's happening, I try to get a helper to watch and follow for a period of time from a cold start to a normal cruise. It's really hard to get a good idea out of the rear view mirror and you miss a lot.
 
"When I have consumption and want to see when it's happening, I try to get a helper to watch and follow for a period of time from a cold start to a normal cruise. It's really hard to get a good idea out of the rear view mirror and you miss a lot."

Agree!
Plus, add in some hard acceleration and some over-run.

Many years ago I had a chronic oil burner, I used to run 20w-50 Plus STP even through the winter.
It was the only way to keep consumption to a manageable (and affordable) level.

Just saying, thicker is not the End of the World!
 
And when summer comes, I'll revisit. But 5w-40, 10w-40 and 15w-40, all of which are known to do very well in these engines... Are consumed. Sort of doubt that 20w-50 will do anything good in terms of the tricky lifter or consumption...
 
Mine used no oil for about 140k miles. The last 20-25k it has been using in odd, inconsistent ways.
 
Take the pre-driven oil from the 1 series and pour it in the hoopty. Saves a few bucks that way.
 
The only reservation I'd have in using any oil in this engine not meeting A3 is loss of viscosity from fuel dilution.
The oil might be just fine new but might be too thin after not too many miles of use.
If you look at some UOAs from this four, including mine, you'll see either fairly high fuel (mine was 2.9%) or a loss of viscosity probably attributable to fuel. You posted a series of UOAs for this engine showing a significant drop in viscosity but without fuel numbers. Some of that loss was no doubt due to mechanical shearing but some was probably due to fuel dilution.
This engine appears to have a pretty rich fuel map so I don't run mine beyond 4K on a fill and I use a 10W-40.
My 318i turned Maxlife 10W-40 into a thirty grade in only 4K and some of that was obviously fuel, as indicated in my UOA.
This in an engine that easily averages over 30 mpg.
Just some food for thought.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
The only reservation I'd have in using any oil in this engine not meeting A3 is loss of viscosity from fuel dilution.
The oil might be just fine new but might be too thin after not too many miles of use.
If you look at some UOAs from this four, including mine, you'll see either fairly high fuel (mine was 2.9%) or a loss of viscosity probably attributable to fuel. You posted a series of UOAs for this engine showing a significant drop in viscosity but without fuel numbers. Some of that loss was no doubt due to mechanical shearing but some was probably due to fuel dilution.
This engine appears to have a pretty rich fuel map so I don't run mine beyond 4K on a fill and I use a 10W-40.
My 318i turned Maxlife 10W-40 into a thirty grade in only 4K and some of that was obviously fuel, as indicated in my UOA.
This in an engine that easily averages over 30 mpg.
Just some food for thought.


Great points and definitely a consideration given that the car spins at around 3500 RPM on the highway.

My saving grace is that a 5w-30 today is more stout than a 5w-30 in 1991, and that it has been frigid here, so Im within the acceptable temperature range. When the warmer weather comes, Ill take the viscosity up accordingly... Just not when its in the 20s all the time...

Great points and consideration though!
 
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