Isnt the 15mm socket ubiquitous?

[tightwad]

Originally Posted By: cjcride
Most Asian vehicles generally use even numbered Metric. 10,12,14,16 does most the work.
You know how it goes though. The 1 you will soon need is the 1 they left out.


Back in the '70's, metric tool sets were sold primarily to service the Toyotas, Nissans and Hondas - cars bought by diy-ers. When the US makers started converting over to metric fasteners, they used 15mm and 18mm head sizes. Tool makers didn't bother to update their tool sets to match needs of US cars. I still see metric sets without a 15mm. DUH !

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Phishin
To the OP...you put HF and Mercedes in the same post. I think I found your problem.


LOL. Doubt MB is the only user of 15mm bolts/nuts.

Others have mentioned GM, etc.


My merc 240d needed a 9mm for a brake bleeder.

My socket was brand new and shiny, never had to touch it before then.

 

[sciphi]

Our Honda is all 10, 12, 14, and 17mm stuff. Our Chevy is all 8, 10, 13, and 15mm. Although the front wheel hub bolts were 18mm, go figure! IIRC the front suspension bolts were 21 and 24mm or some other random size. No, the wheel hub didn't go out, I snapped off some studs by over-torquing. It was easier to replace with the hub off the car.

Luckily I have enough tool sets with the odd sizes that both cars seem to need, and enough of them to get most fasteners.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Phishin
To the OP...you put HF and Mercedes in the same post. I think I found your problem.


LOL. Doubt MB is the only user of 15mm bolts/nuts.

Others have mentioned GM, etc.


My merc 240d needed a 9mm for a brake bleeder.

My socket was brand new and shiny, never had to touch it before then.


...not visualizing why you need a socket to bleed brakes...

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: sciphi


Luckily I have enough tool sets with the odd sizes that both cars seem to need, and enough of them to get most fasteners.


Yeah most likely everyone does, but this is more specific to impacts, which are sold at HF most likely to appeal to diy auto repair...

 

[JHZR2]

I also just realized when looking at the image of the set that they had, a LOT of their "impact" stuff isn't Cr-Mo, but rather Cr-V, which if I'm not mistaken, is a shatter hazard and dangerous to use on impact.

I'd guess they just cast their standard alloy, cast thicker. Probably makes for awesome hand tools in place of the standard chrome plated ones in a regular ratchet set... Because they are so darn heavy. But for impact?? At least they're made in Taiwan, not India, as I hear the tools coming from India are excessively poor in quality.

Looking online, all the pro stuff is Cr-Mo. Anyone know the reasoning why they would do this?

 

[Merkava_4]

Get this set here. Whichever one is in stock.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-12-in-drive-metric-deep-wall-impact-socket-set-67915.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-12-in-drive-metric-deep-wall-impact-socket-set-69287.html

 

[Trav]

Some of the Taiwan stuff is good, i really like the Triangle stuff. The ratchets are well made, comfortable and nice to use, the sockets are well made with a unique design and meet DIN.

The difference is they are a Taiwanese company making their own tools under their own name using good tool steel and good designs not knock offs, the price reflects this, they are inexpensive for good quality but not cheap.

Some of us got a real bargain when Sears sold them out for cheap money, i wish i had bought more.
If HF is upping their game with better quality Taiwan stuff i have less of a problem with them as they are supporting an up and coming first world nation if they are not already.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Get this set here. Whichever one is in stock.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-12-in-drive-metric-deep-wall-impact-socket-set-67915.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-12-in-drive-metric-deep-wall-impact-socket-set-69287.html


I saw those, but I bought a set of S-K, all US made shallow and deep impact in Metric size and with high quality Cr-Mo and black coating. I also got one of those Williams wobble sockets, because though the SK was cheaper, the write-up on it wasnt as clear.

I try to buy American wherever I can, and SK was an obvious choice as I could get it on Amazon Prime easily. I went in to HF to see what they offered and how it looked, because a $12.99 set is a steal. But what I found is that to get all the sizes in deep and shallow, you had to buy sets at $30 each, instead of a strip at $12.99. I also noticed that most of the non-wobble extensions, including the round universals were all Cr-V, not Cr-Mo. Turns out that lots of stuff there was Cr-V, not Cr-MO yet it was sold as for impact. Unfortunately, the "pro" is the only way to go, though the non-pro is made in Taiwan... Unless youre using them as hefty hand tools.

If only the $12.99 set offered 15mm and was Cr-Mo... Then it would be truly awesome. As it stands, they look like some really heavy and probably HD sockets to use on a breaker bar, and NOT impact... If I was looking for Taiwanese stuff, the pro stuff would be good, but Id have to give a hard look at the IR sockets on Amazon, which are apparently quite good and may actually be cheaper (but harder to warranty I suppose).

Also interestingly they sold some single sockets in 3/4, 19mm, and other bigger sizes. Since lots of lugnuts are 17mm (at least for my cars), I was surprised that they didnt sell that one single.

 

[tig1]

My HF 3/8 set has a 15MM.

 

[Merkava_4]

My favorite impact sockets are Proto and if you buy them one at a time, you can avoid the sticker shock for a whole set.

 

[ronbo]

Got a Craftsman Evolv 10 pc. 1/2" Deep Impact Sockets metric set on SALE for $20, reg $35 a few months ago that includes sizes: 10, 12 thru 15, 17, 19, 21, 22, 24 mm.



They all have a 5 piece set that includes 15mm for $15, 10mm, 12mm, 13 mm, 14mm and 15mm

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
My favorite impact sockets are Proto and if you buy them one at a time, you can avoid the sticker shock for a whole set.


Yeah I like Proto, and have gotten a lot of them through McMaster. But I wanted a set, and the SK was a better deal for the price of deep plus shallow.

If I ever break 'em, ill probably replace via McMaster and that will be pro to most likely...

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: eljefino

My merc 240d needed a 9mm for a brake bleeder.

My socket was brand new and shiny, never had to touch it before then.


...not visualizing why you need a socket to bleed brakes...


To break it loose. Used a long cheater bar. Gets the rotational force in there while minimizing the sideways shear force. Of all the bleeders I've broken, they shear the same way most times. I find using a long lever (and 6 pt socket, obviously) gives me the best luck and/or feel.

Besides, I'm not sure if I own a 9mm wrench-- they're in relatively few sets.

 

[JHZR2]

Hmmmm, despite the fairly salty area we live in, never had one seized up like that. Id imagine youd want impact on it vs just a long sustained torque...

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Hmmmm, despite the fairly salty area we live in, never had one seized up like that. Id imagine youd want impact on it vs just a long sustained torque...


+1 Kroil and impact. I use this on my air hammer.

http://www.braketools.com/brake-free.html

 

[Vikas]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
To break it loose. Used a long cheater bar. Gets the rotational force in there while minimizing the sideways shear force. Of all the bleeders I've broken, they shear the same way most times. I find using a long lever (and 6 pt socket, obviously) gives me the best luck and/or feel.
I am not sure if that is the best method. Using long lever would have higher chances of shearing off bleeder than using smaller level and rapping on it.

 

[eljefino]

^ yeah I rap and use pb blaster. I don't do heat. I just have a better feel with a longer lever which may not be for everyone. I have a pretty good idea when it's just about to let go.

 

[JHZR2]

I would think you would want a small impact on there... Like a little impact dril or driver (electric).

 

[Vikas]

The trouble with impact on a bolt which is holding any type of fluid is that you never know when the bolt will let go and end up spraying everything within the vicinity! I suppose one can be extremely quick and stop the impact as soon small movement of the fastener i noticed but I don't know if I want to risk that!