Upper cylinder lube vs. oil additives

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Originally Posted By: Clevy

Actually the Lucas upper cylinder lube contains pib,and pib will improve gas mileage by helping fuel burn more completely.
There's lots of info on pib and fuel efficiency,google should bring something up for you.
As far as the cats are concerned tc-w3 shouldn't affect them at all because it's ashless and leaves no residue behind,right?
I use tc-w3 in every fuel burning machine I own,including my zoomboom and everything I use it in runs better with it.
Probably subjective but for the pennies it costs to dose I'm gonna keep on keeping on.


So, I took your advice and went out and bought some tcw3. Where I am right now it's cold... My face went numb just walking to my truck out in the parking lot... So I also bought some MMO for my oil haha. I tell you what, I can't stand Ford's dummy oil pressure gauge. Scares me when it shows no pressure, but then I remember that if its below something like 10, (or was is 5?) psi it just won't read anything. So I'm hoping the MMO will thin my oil enough to help me out on cold starts.
As for the tcw3, I bought the Quicksilver Premium Plus 2-Cycle Outboard Oil... Havn't used it yet since I had previously already had MMO in the tank, still about 3/4 a tank, so I'm gonna wait til the next fill up. Is the Quicksilver tcw3 good?
 
Originally Posted By: Triton_330

Is the Quicksilver tcw3 good?


It sure is, you can also use a less expensive TCW3 oil if you'd like. I bought Pennzoil's version for about $10 a gallon on some sort of closeout a few years ago. You can also use Supertech TCW3 if there's a Walmart near you.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Triton_330

Is the Quicksilver tcw3 good?


It sure is, you can also use a less expensive TCW3 oil if you'd like. I bought Pennzoil's version for about $10 a gallon on some sort of closeout a few years ago. You can also use Supertech TCW3 if there's a Walmart near you.


Yeah but that st stuff stinks, literally.

Made that mistake, thought I was slick buying cheapo ST oil to use as an additive, couldn't get past the odor!
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Triton_330

Is the Quicksilver tcw3 good?


It sure is, you can also use a less expensive TCW3 oil if you'd like. I bought Pennzoil's version for about $10 a gallon on some sort of closeout a few years ago. You can also use Supertech TCW3 if there's a Walmart near you.


Yeah but that st stuff stinks, literally.

Made that mistake, thought I was slick buying cheapo ST oil to use as an additive, couldn't get past the odor!


Most likely, if I see positive results from using this, I will just buy a gallon off Amazon. The prices on Amazon were cheaper than what I saw at Walmart. I just wanted to try a smaller container out first so I could verify that it helps my truck.
 
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
Is the Quicksilver tcw3 good?


I don't see why not.

I've been using Evinrude/Johnson Super Premium in my '03 F-150 as it carries TC-W3RL approval.

Let us know how it works out for you.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
Is the Quicksilver tcw3 good?


I don't see why not.

I've been using Evinrude/Johnson Super Premium in my '03 F-150 as it carries TC-W3RL approval.

Let us know how it works out for you.


Sorry to be naive, but what does the "RL" part of that mean? I believe what I bought is just tc-w3, not tc-w3rl. Is there a difference?

P.S. Nice to see someone on here with the same Gen of F-150 as me. What oil do you use in it?
 
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
Sorry to be naive, but what does the "RL" part of that mean? I believe what I bought is just tc-w3, not tc-w3rl. Is there a difference?

P.S. Nice to see someone on here with the same Gen of F-150 as me. What oil do you use in it?


RL certification is supposedly the latest & greatest when it comes to TC-W3 oils -- Evinrude specifically states that if their XD100 oil (100:1 ratio) is unavailable, an RL product is to be used. Looking at ad copy alone: "It is certified RL which means it has high film strength for improved lubricity that results in increased engine efficiency, reduced bearing wear and cleaner emissions with less smoke."

Of course, if you browse over to the NMMA site, every single oil listed carries an RL number, so who knows: http://www.nmma.org/assets/cabinets/Cabinet456/2013 TC-W3.pdf

As for the F-150, I've been running Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w-20 with a Motorcraft FL-820S.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Triton_330

Is the Quicksilver tcw3 good?


It sure is, you can also use a less expensive TCW3 oil if you'd like. I bought Pennzoil's version for about $10 a gallon on some sort of closeout a few years ago. You can also use Supertech TCW3 if there's a Walmart near you.


Yeah but that st stuff stinks, literally.

Made that mistake, thought I was slick buying cheapo ST oil to use as an additive, couldn't get past the odor!


LOL Honestly the smell doesn't bother me, but then again I've been using up my stash of the $10/gallon Pennzoil TCW3 I bought.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam

RL certification is supposedly the latest & greatest when it comes to TC-W3 oils -- Evinrude specifically states that if their XD100 oil (100:1 ratio) is unavailable, an RL product is to be used. Looking at ad copy alone: "It is certified RL which means it has high film strength for improved lubricity that results in increased engine efficiency, reduced bearing wear and cleaner emissions with less smoke."

Of course, if you browse over to the NMMA site, every single oil listed carries an RL number, so who knows: http://www.nmma.org/assets/cabinets/Cabinet456/2013 TC-W3.pdf

As for the F-150, I've been running Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w-20 with a Motorcraft FL-820S.


Well shoot, that's kind of confusing. It lists ALL of them as RL's...

It seems to me that it might just be the next gen API spec - like how tc-w2 went to tc-w3. But I could've sworn the bottle I bought only said tc-w3 and didn't say RL, but yet on that list it has the RL. Either way, even if what I bought isn't RL spec (which it could well be), it's not like the tc-w3 non-RL is going to hurt anything. Right?

As for our trucks, one thing I've always wondered is if there really is that big of a deal between running 5w-20 and 5w-30. We have the 2V version, and AFAIK, that (our) generation of F-150 didn't have the ticking problems that the next gen (the 3V) had. I read somewhere that, if not for CAFE (etc.), then the 97-03 F-150s would have been spec'd for 5w-30. There's been some debate on whether or not there was any change in tolerance between 2V and 3V, but honestly, I don't really care. I run 5w-30 and my 2V Triton has never given me troubles. I just wonder, after using 5w-30 for a while, if I could still put in 5w-20 if I wanted to.
 
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
Originally Posted By: Clevy

Actually the Lucas upper cylinder lube contains pib,and pib will improve gas mileage by helping fuel burn more completely.
There's lots of info on pib and fuel efficiency,google should bring something up for you.
As far as the cats are concerned tc-w3 shouldn't affect them at all because it's ashless and leaves no residue behind,right?
I use tc-w3 in every fuel burning machine I own,including my zoomboom and everything I use it in runs better with it.
Probably subjective but for the pennies it costs to dose I'm gonna keep on keeping on.


So, I took your advice and went out and bought some tcw3. Where I am right now it's cold... My face went numb just walking to my truck out in the parking lot... So I also bought some MMO for my oil haha. I tell you what, I can't stand Ford's dummy oil pressure gauge. Scares me when it shows no pressure, but then I remember that if its below something like 10, (or was is 5?) psi it just won't read anything. So I'm hoping the MMO will thin my oil enough to help me out on cold starts.
As for the tcw3, I bought the Quicksilver Premium Plus 2-Cycle Outboard Oil... Havn't used it yet since I had previously already had MMO in the tank, still about 3/4 a tank, so I'm gonna wait til the next fill up. Is the Quicksilver tcw3 good?
as far as using mmo to thin your oil I've never,ever recommended it for that to anyone for that purpose.
I have recommended it for engines that may have deposits forming though.
And I'm using mmo in my inverse oiler on my charger.
I use a frankenbrew of either acetone/xylene/toluene and the cheapest tc-w3 I can find off the shelf.
Tc-w3 is a spec so all oils that meet it should perform exactly the same. And let's be honest,1 ounce per 5 gallons of fuel isn't a whole lot so any potential benefits aren't going to be seen right away.
Over time using it could lead to keeping the entire fuel system clean,the injectors maintaining the proper spray pattern for longer,on port injection designs the intake valve remains spotless and that minute leftover layer of oil may help seal the valve which means less potential compression loss.
My 99 chev Z-71 had a whiny fuel pump. Using tc-w3 stopped the whining.
I can't say whether tc-w3 will help on the exhaust side as far as valve cleaning or not.
I use the stuff in everything and have for years. Whenever I take something apart the fuel system is always perfect.
The carbs on my air compressors and generators never have little leaks where the ethanol has eaten away at it. They start easy,first pull most times. There's no cats to foul. They never have carb issues unless I've somehow done something.
I'm know millions of vehicles drive all their miles with just fuel in the tank and they ran great and I'm happy for those drivers however I figure for the pennies it costs to use I might as well.
I feel over time engine lose that little bit of responsiveness that new vehicles have. I feel that using tc-w3 may help keep that like new pep for longer.
I do piston/intake soak with mmo too every 20k too. Pour a whole bottle in the intake line so it completely soaks the intake tract,intake valves,piston crowns and the exhaust valve. I pour it fast so it stalls the engine then give it 20 minutes to soak,half hour if its the first time.
If you think sea foam puts on a smoke show its got nothin on mmo.
I then take the vehicle out for a spirited drive getting the rpm up high enough to suck all the mmo through,and in high gear at low rpm and full throttle to really expand the ring packs against the cylinder walls helping break loose deposits and re-creating that positive seal,which can. Cause oil consumption over time.
These little things rob the instant responsiveness from an engine.
PEA is great stuff for helping remove carbon deposits from the combustion chambers and the exhaust valve. It seems to be able to scrub carbon after being burned,or so it seems.
Anyways be sure to update with any observations. I'm interested in your results,and if any are noticeable.
 
Clevy:

What type or style of inverse oiler are you using? Pics would be helpful (if available).
 
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam

RL certification is supposedly the latest & greatest when it comes to TC-W3 oils -- Evinrude specifically states that if their XD100 oil (100:1 ratio) is unavailable, an RL product is to be used. Looking at ad copy alone: "It is certified RL which means it has high film strength for improved lubricity that results in increased engine efficiency, reduced bearing wear and cleaner emissions with less smoke."

Of course, if you browse over to the NMMA site, every single oil listed carries an RL number, so who knows: http://www.nmma.org/assets/cabinets/Cabinet456/2013 TC-W3.pdf

As for the F-150, I've been running Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w-20 with a Motorcraft FL-820S.


Well shoot, that's kind of confusing. It lists ALL of them as RL's...

It seems to me that it might just be the next gen API spec - like how tc-w2 went to tc-w3. But I could've sworn the bottle I bought only said tc-w3 and didn't say RL, but yet on that list it has the RL. Either way, even if what I bought isn't RL spec (which it could well be), it's not like the tc-w3 non-RL is going to hurt anything. Right?

As for our trucks, one thing I've always wondered is if there really is that big of a deal between running 5w-20 and 5w-30. We have the 2V version, and AFAIK, that (our) generation of F-150 didn't have the ticking problems that the next gen (the 3V) had. I read somewhere that, if not for CAFE (etc.), then the 97-03 F-150s would have been spec'd for 5w-30. There's been some debate on whether or not there was any change in tolerance between 2V and 3V, but honestly, I don't really care. I run 5w-30 and my 2V Triton has never given me troubles. I just wonder, after using 5w-30 for a while, if I could still put in 5w-20 if I wanted to.


And the clearances never changed on the early 4.6 npi head engines to the pi head Romeo engines that went in vehicles until the end of 2000.
In 2001 the power trains started coming from Romeo instead of Windsor and even though they were both 4.6 litre sohc engines there were differences and parts weren't interchangeable between the Windsor and Romeo engines either which for hot rodders sucked because it cut the available parts pool in half.
But with all the changes between the 2000 and 2001 engines their clearances never changed appreciably.
I think it was 2001 when the 20 grade back-spec came out for ford. My oil oil cap said 5w-30 however that may have just been a cap that got mixed up with another.
I thought there was some big conspiracy and so on. I read the cafe requirement and read all the "is my engine going to dissolve threads" along with the comments insisting the "tighter tolerances" were the reason for the change,yet the year prior to the back-spec no new engines were introduced and yes the "tolerances" may have increased but the clearances were the same,and the clearances are what matter,and what get specified.
And to throw a monkey wrench in the thin oil conspiracy the engines using 20 grades were living just as long as their thick oil predecessors.which kinda kyboshed the wearing out faster conspiracy idea.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
as far as using mmo to thin your oil I've never,ever recommended it for that to anyone for that purpose.
I have recommended it for engines that may have deposits forming though.
And I'm using mmo in my inverse oiler on my charger.


Yah, I know that using it to thin the oil isn't really what it's supposed to be used for, but I only put in a pint... My F-150 has the notorious dummy oil pressure gauge that will show no pressure if the psi goes under like 5 or 10 psi (can't remember which one it is for sure). When I went to start up my truck to go to Walmart (thus before adding MMO), the pressure gauge read as no pressure for a long time before finally reading normal about halfway to Walmart. (My campus is only 2.1 miles away from Walmart, so that's basically a mile before it read normal). But, since I probably only have 1000 miles left on my OCI, I'm not too worried about the MMO. It'll clean up my oil, and help with cold starts for a while, but I assume that after a while it'll just vaporize off after driving on the highway enough. Sorry to use it in the way it wasn't intended, but I really don't think a pint of MMO for just 1k left on my OCI will hurt anything.

Originally Posted By: Clevy

If you think sea foam puts on a smoke show its got nothin on mmo.


LOL yah I know. I agree, sea foam's got nothing on MMO. I don't ever really use sea foam anyway.

Originally Posted By: Clevy

PEA is great stuff for helping remove carbon deposits from the combustion chambers and the exhaust valve. It seems to be able to scrub carbon after being burned,or so it seems.


My truck doesn't really have any problems with deposits AFAIK. I just put MMO in the tank sometimes because at home all I have is Casey's gas... I'll just leave it at that haha. But, what would you say about MMO vs, say, lucas fuel additive? In my mind, I don't think I really need the lucas stuff (or any PEA), but if there were more benefits from a PEA than you've stated so far, I might use one every once in a while.

Originally Posted By: Clevy

Anyways be sure to update with any observations. I'm interested in your results,and if any are noticeable.


I intend on going home this weekend, so once I use up the fuel I have now (that I added MMO to), I will use the tc-w3 when I fill back up. (I'm in college - my home is about 1.5 hours away from campus, so I think I should be able to use enough of the fuel to be able to fill up and put in the tc-w3 for the ride back to campus). Would you rather me post the results in this thread, or just send you a PM, Clevy? I'd be fine doing either one. It'll likely be Sunday or Monday when I report back about it.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy

And the clearances never changed on the early 4.6 npi head engines to the pi head Romeo engines that went in vehicles until the end of 2000.
In 2001 the power trains started coming from Romeo instead of Windsor and even though they were both 4.6 litre sohc engines there were differences and parts weren't interchangeable between the Windsor and Romeo engines either which for hot rodders sucked because it cut the available parts pool in half.
But with all the changes between the 2000 and 2001 engines their clearances never changed appreciably.
I think it was 2001 when the 20 grade back-spec came out for ford. My oil oil cap said 5w-30 however that may have just been a cap that got mixed up with another.
I thought there was some big conspiracy and so on. I read the cafe requirement and read all the "is my engine going to dissolve threads" along with the comments insisting the "tighter tolerances" were the reason for the change,yet the year prior to the back-spec no new engines were introduced and yes the "tolerances" may have increased but the clearances were the same,and the clearances are what matter,and what get specified.
And to throw a monkey wrench in the thin oil conspiracy the engines using 20 grades were living just as long as their thick oil predecessors.which kinda kyboshed the wearing out faster conspiracy idea.


Well, just to clarify, my 2001 F-150 has the 5.4L Triton. And, on the inside of my door, on the door sticker, it says Windsor right on it. So, I'm not sure what differences there were between the 4.6 and the 5.4... As for the whole debate on the oil grades, I agree about the fact that there are Tritons running both grades, and that they've all lasted the same amount. I have to admit, I got my truck before I was a BITOGer, and had the mindset to run 5w-30, so I did. When became a BITOGer, I had already gotten into the habit of using 5w-30 in my truck and, well, to be totally honest, I guess I just wasn't sure if switching back to 5w-20 would be ok after having used 5w-30 for the time that I did. I mean, being the humble person that I am, I admit that I still am kind of naive sometimes. Do you think it'd be okay for me to switch back to 5w-20 for my next oil change? Or should I just continue running 5w-30. (Or, does it really even matter either way?)
 
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
it's not like the tc-w3 non-RL is going to hurt anything. Right?


Correct.

Originally Posted By: Triton_330
As for our trucks, one thing I've always wondered is if there really is that big of a deal between running 5w-20 and 5w-30. We have the 2V version, and AFAIK, that (our) generation of F-150 didn't have the ticking problems that the next gen (the 3V) had. I read somewhere that, if not for CAFE (etc.), then the 97-03 F-150s would have been spec'd for 5w-30. There's been some debate on whether or not there was any change in tolerance between 2V and 3V, but honestly, I don't really care. I run 5w-30 and my 2V Triton has never given me troubles. I just wonder, after using 5w-30 for a while, if I could still put in 5w-20 if I wanted to.


5w-20 vs. 5w-30 was, and is, blown way out of proportion.

Personally, I subscribe to the "thin as possible, thick as necessary" mindset when it comes to selecting an oil. With the 5.4L timing chain/tensioner setup, OHC, and high pressure system, I've found a 5w-20 (notably, Mobil 1 High Mileage) to work very well, delivering exceptional cold starts, but also minimal usage and quiet operation at the other end of the temperature spectrum.

Originally Posted By: Triton_330
My F-150 has the notorious dummy oil pressure gauge that will show no pressure if the psi goes under like 5 or 10 psi (can't remember which one it is for sure). When I went to start up my truck to go to Walmart (thus before adding MMO), the pressure gauge read as no pressure for a long time before finally reading normal about halfway to Walmart.


I don't understand -- you have no oil pressure on cold start?

Originally Posted By: Triton_330
But, what would you say about MMO vs, say, lucas fuel additive?


I've ran a couple treatments of Regane High Mileage (PEA cleaner, with a couple of bottles in each tank, so four bottles total) back-to-back, along with a good cleaning of the throttle body (with the appropriate throttle body/air intake cleaner, such as the CRC product I used). Combine that with continued usage of TC-W3, and I'm good to go.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam

Originally Posted By: Triton_330
My F-150 has the notorious dummy oil pressure gauge that will show no pressure if the psi goes under like 5 or 10 psi (can't remember which one it is for sure). When I went to start up my truck to go to Walmart (thus before adding MMO), the pressure gauge read as no pressure for a long time before finally reading normal about halfway to Walmart.


I don't understand -- you have no oil pressure on cold start?


I do have oil pressure, but it is low, and the gauges won't actually display the true psi level (just the Low to High range), and if the psi is like under 10, it just displays as not having any, even though it really does still have oil pressure.

UNLESS... Do you think that there actually is something wrong? The cold start this occurred in was when the outside temp was 20*F with a windchill of like zero. The oil in my truck now is Kendall GT-1 semi-syn 5w-30.

When I start[ed] my truck, the gauge fluctuated between showing normal pressure (half-way-ish between H and L) and then drop to no reading on L. It's like this: I've never seen the pressure read as 1/4 --- it's pretty much either at half-way (normal), or none. I don't know why it does this. It won't display having 1/4 pressure (like, if L=0 and H=1). As soon as the temp gauge reads above C (Cold) by just a little bit, the pressure gauge reads normal for the remainder of operation.


Originally Posted By: Ramblejam

I've ran a couple treatments of Regane High Mileage (PEA cleaner, with a couple of bottles in each tank, so four bottles total), along with a good cleaning of the throttle body (with the appropriate throttle body/air intake cleaner, such as the CRC product I used). Combine that with continued usage of TC-W3, and I'm good to go.


Ok, so, does this PEA have any other benefits than just cleaning, or does it also act as a UCL?
I'm just not sure that I really need the PEA since I will be using the tc-w3 and MMO in my gas. Obviously, the tc-w3 acts as a UCL, and the MMO helps with cleaning (and probably helps a little with fuel stabilization, right?). Does the PEA offer something that using tc-w3 and MMO doesn't offer?
 
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Originally Posted By: Clevy
Triton.
I don't think PEA has any lubricating effects.


Thanks Clevy. I think, then, it'd be alright for me to just stick with using MMO and tc-w3, right?
 
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
I do have oil pressure, but it is low


How do you know you have low oil pressure? Have you actually hooked up a mechanical gauge to test, or relying upon what you have to make an assessment?
 
Triton.
I don't think PEA has any lubricating effects.

PEA is a proven product for cleaning combustion chamber deposits,I don't know that either mmo or tc-w3 have that property and clean when burned.
Tc-w3 and mmo will basically do the same thing in a nutshell and to be honest mixing a fuel additive that contains pea with tc-w3 would accomplish a few things,a multi-purpose additive.
I have been experimenting lately with the prestone line of fuel additives. The labels claim amines in the products.
I mixed a bottle of their fuel system/octane booster with some motomaster tc-w3 and added it to this latest fill up today.
I can't say I notice anything different.
I've got mmo in an inverse oiler on my charger.
Its funny. When that inverse oiler gets completely drained I can feel slightly less pep in the pedal when operating at light pedal pressures. It's almost like the engine has just that bit more "snap" with mmo in the inverse oiler.
I've used a bunch of different stuff in my inverse oiler too. I think they would be ideal for a direct injection engine. Never again paying for manual cleaning valves.
 
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