Preferred Brake Bleed Method

Status
Not open for further replies.
Without a doubt pressure bleeding with the pedal is the best method. Myself, whenever I've had a brake system open, for caliper or hose replacement or whatever, I gravity bleed followed by pressure bleeding with the pedal.

Gravity bleeding is a good way to get fresh fluid out to the bleeders, and can be done while you're working elsewhere on the brakes, but you have to stay on top of things and not let the master cylinder go dry. Then follow that with pressure bleeding, with the pedal, to force the air out. Gravity bleeding won't force all the air out of a system.

Over the years I've seen various "machines" come along, every decade there's some new "tool" that's going to be the answer to brake bleeding, and invariably there is always a job that has to bled by pedal to finish a job correctly. The Mity-Vac tool can work well, and it's probably the best one-man method, but again there is always a job that still needs to be pedal bled, so I don't play around with things like that and just go straight to pedal bleeding. It's so simple and gets the job done the first time, every time.

Pedal bleeding is how I fix soft pedals that are the result of other methods and is the best way to get a rock hard pedal, and who doesn't want that ?
 
Exactly, pedal bleeding is the most effective and fastest way. Definitely not the easiest.
 
Originally Posted By: BHopkins
Originally Posted By: Donald
However in the end there is nothing like pushing on the brake pedal with your foot and having someone open the bleeder then close it before you release your foot.


I absolutely despise this method. To me, this is an absolute last choice. I would probably pay someone else to do it, before I would do this. You may have noted that this was missing from my list of options. That was very intentional.


I was at the local shop who was working on my pickup's brakes. They had found a leaking rear crossover line and replaced it (copper/nickel). One mechanic was 6 feet up in the air pumping the brakes for the other mechanic to open and close the bleeder. I asked if they had fancy bleeding machines and he said yes, but sometimes using the brake pedal is still needed.
 
I have the Phoenix V12 and am happy with it. It has its quirks, so you have to learn how to handle it, but once you learn, it works well.

As perspesctive, I have not tried the Motive bleeder, but have tried the vacuum methods and always have the problem of air being pulled in around the bleed screws, even after wrapping them with Teflon tape. I've tried speed bleeders and had some success, but some of them eventually stopped up for reasons unknown. I have used and had no major complaints with gravity and pedal bleeding, other than the speed and/or need for another person.

If you are attracted to pressure and vacuum bleeding, the Phoenix has some capability in those directions. It has a rubber nose which can be put down into the round bore of a master cylinder to pressurize (assuming the reservoir is wide-mouthed with a lid, allowing access), and the hose which would normally be used as fluid intake can be attached to the bleed screws for vacuum. As said, you have to learn how to handle it (as with any method dealing with brake fluid, it can be cumbersome and/or messy)but it is definitely one of my go-to methods now.
 
I understand how the air gets pulled in around the bleed screws. You will see air bubbles while doing the vacuum bleed and it will be somewhat maddening as they will never seem to go away but I don't think you are introducing any new air in your brake system. With the vacuum method, once the air bubbles minimizes, you are done with bleeding.

After you have vacuumed the original fluid and new fluid is coming out, small bubbles would be from the air sucked in around the bleed screw but those will be harmless.

Personally, I have NOT done this myself but watched this exact behavior when it was done on my car. I too was concerned that the bubbles did not stop but my mechanic explained it.
 
I have a Miti-Vac hand held vacuum pump that I've been using for many years with great success. I would have gotten my brakes blead completely before this guy got all of the air bubbles out of the brake like from the resivior to the pump bottle.
 
Another method is the one-man bleeding kit that you can get at most part stores. I bought mine at Sears 10 years ago and have used it many times. If you set it up properly no way air gets sucked in. You do have to watch how much you've filled it but that's about it. Simple to use IMO.
 
Wow. So many responses and experience. This is great. I guess I shouldn't be surprised, but no real consensus.

From reading the pros and cons many of you mention, I am intrigued by the Motive pressurized system, and will probably order one to try out. I am attracted to the idea of filling the tank, pressurizing the system, and then being done with handling brake fluid on the top. The idea of opening and closing each bleeder valve only once is also a plus.

My experience with the two man system is that it is always messy. Every time you open and close the bleeder screw, the hose wants to come off the end of it. It is not always convenient to get two people together to do brakes, especially two that both understand how to properly bleed brakes. Someone up above mentioned experience at a shop. The comments of the mechanics leaves me with the impression that they use the two man method when it is necessary, but otherwise would not.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BHopkins

Will it hold enough fluid to do a full flush on a normal car? Or do you have to fill the tank a couple times.

I have heard elsewhere of using the colored brake fluid, and alternating between color, making it easier to see when fresh fluid is coming through. Great idea. Thanks for the reminder.


The container itself will hold way more than enough. I think it's like a 1 gallon container. I have not used more than 1 qt on any of my flushes. I also have not had any issue with soft pedal or seeing bubbles to get confused. I use a clear soda bottle to collect the fluid. The motive comes with a clear vinyl tube that slips on the bleeder and when you open it you can watch the dirty fluid travel.
 
Vacum bleeding can become a nightmare if the brake system arent
completly vacum safe....and they aint!
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
I have a Miti-Vac hand held vacuum pump that I've been using for many years with great success. I would have gotten my brakes blead completely before this guy got all of the air bubbles out of the brake like from the resivior to the pump bottle.
Don't tiny bubbles never stop when you use the hand held pump?
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
I have a Miti-Vac hand held vacuum pump that I've been using for many years with great success. I would have gotten my brakes blead completely before this guy got all of the air bubbles out of the brake like from the resivior to the pump bottle.
Don't tiny bubbles never stop when you use the hand held pump?


I admit that I do see lots of tiny bubbles but, I've been doing this vacuum bleed for 25-30 years and I have never had a failure. I used to do the 2 person system but, with ABS being so sensative these days and trying to have someone there to help, I found the Mity-Vac to be quite convienient.

Also, I have had issues with the 2 man system, damaging the brake fluid master cylinder due to pushing the pedal to the floor and scoring the piston, causing lack of pedal pressure...So again, no issues with our brakes since using the vac bleed. Nice high pedal and a very nice progressive brake feel(always)
smile.gif


I guess everyone has a different way to get to the same place. And I am a fan of bleeding the system every 2-3 years, whatever your method is!
smile.gif
 
Last edited:
I've got speed bleeders on the Jeep, mostly so I can change the fluid out easily without needing a second person. As long as there's sealant on the threads, they work pretty well. I've yet to have anything less than a very firm pedal after using them and they're fairly quick.
 
People who don't like the vacuum bleed method are the ones who see the never ending tiny bubbles and freak out. Are they going to believe you (or me) or their own lying eyes???? :)
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
People who don't like the vacuum bleed method are the ones who see the never ending tiny bubbles and freak out. Are they going to believe you (or me) or their own lying eyes???? :)


yep, those bubbles are NOT going back into the caliper/wheel cylinder you are bleeding. So they are basically irrelevant. But they do freak folks out.

My car is easily gravity bled. Each year just prior to a track day I simply open each caliper bleeder and check the master cylinder every few minutes. Pretty simple.

But no pedal pushin'. That's too easy to damage stuff...
 
I am actually liking the gravity bleed method more & more. I have only done it twice recently and am entertaining the thought more often
smile.gif
 
+1 gravity bleeding works well for all of the vehicles I have tried it on. It is not a fast method but it works. I like to take my time anyway.
 
Well, I did it. I ordered a Motive Black Label and an extra adapter so I can bleed brakes on both of my cars. Ordered on Summit Friday evening, and it arrived Tuesday. Summit not only had free shipping, but they offered the best price.

So, last night I put my Alero up on jack stands and bled the system. It was the easiest, least messy brake bleed I have ever done. The adapter fit very nicely on the reservoir, and no leak first try. I did have to fuss with the tubing some. It was in the way for pumping up the tank. But I have some ideas to handle that next time.

Being not real experienced at bleeding brakes, I did struggle to tell when clean fluid had reached the caliper. I ended up using too much brake fluid and had to go buy a second bottle. Sure wish we could still buy the blue stuff.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top