OPE engine oils?

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If comparing oils for air cooled OPE's over wide temperature use and striving for the lowest wear would oils like Amsoil ACD, Rotella T5, Mobil 1(EP), work equally in most applications? Is there really any point in synthetics for yearly oci's with/without filtration?
 
what are we talking about here specifically?

Tractor? lawnmower? trimmer?
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
what are we talking about here specifically?

Tractor? lawnmower? trimmer?

In my case two Honda GX's, a 10kw genset, and a pressure washer.
 
I use M1 10-30 in all my OPE. Riding mower, 5KW gen, and pressure washer.
Works very well in all temps.
 
I like the Amsoil ACD but really, T-5 makes an ideal OPE oil. I like M1 HM 10W-30 too.

If you work the generator hard for a period of days in the summer, you may want to bump it up to a 40 grade.
 
Originally Posted By: Keith_Stone
If comparing oils for air cooled OPE's over wide temperature use and striving for the lowest wear would oils like Amsoil ACD, Rotella T5, Mobil 1(EP), work equally in most applications? Is there really any point in synthetics for yearly oci's with/without filtration?


In the ope setting the mobil ep probably has the lowest zinc. I run either rotella t-6 or amsoil motorcycle oil in my equipment. The toro zero turn gets the mcf, as does the motorcycle. the pushmower gets rotella t-5 . The diesel massey ferguson gets rotella 15-40. ( for some reason t-6 causes consumption in the tractor). Since i might need the generator in the winter it gets t-6.
 
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Any gasket issues with HM oils in small OPE's? specifically SL oils with a generous add-pack?
 
I ran Amsoil Small engine formula for a while. This spring I'll run GC and Amsoil 5W20 mix from left over oil changes. Honda GVC 160 and a Troy Bilt weed eater. My power washer will get the rest of the Amsoil small engine.
 
I put T6 5w40 or (less often) Delvac 1 5w40 in all my OPE. From 6-horse vertical shaft lawn mower engines at home in the city, to the 28-horse Briggs V-twin on the zero-turn at the farm.
 
HM oils get no love on BITOG. M1 makes one of the best. You will not have gasket and seal issues. Just more BITOG paranoia.
 
I was using T6 exclusively until I got a good stash of GC. My snowblower is starting well on the 0w-30. T5/T6 is hard to beat for average OPE.
 
Originally Posted By: Keith_Stone
If comparing oils for air cooled OPE's over wide temperature use and striving for the lowest wear would oils like Amsoil ACD, Rotella T5 (I think you meant T6) , Mobil 1(EP), work equally in most applications? Is there really any point in synthetics for yearly oci's with/without filtration?


The answer is an unqualified YES! Sure, conventional 30W will work just fine in many applications. But, I've experienced rapid engine failure due to heat related issues. As have many Florida hurricane victims. Properly chosen synthetics perform very well at 250 degree oil temps and at -10F start up temps. Something a conventional oil cannot do.

I use M1, 15W-50 in my Subaru 11HP generator. It now has well over 1000 hours use on it, and still runs perfectly. Quite unlike my neighbors units.

I use M1, 5W-40 TDT in my other OPE, with equally good results.

Penzoil 5W-30 failed in 2 Honda powered waterpumps (used to de-water my yard to avoid wetlands mitigation fees) They ran 24/7 under absurdly hot conditions, with oil changes every 2 days. The result was rapid engine failure. Would straight 30 have been better? You bet. But, M1, 15W-50 really is the proper answer in that case. And will result in significantly longer engine life under severe conditions.
 
I use GC in my two generators because you never know what the ambient temperature will be the next time it is used.

However I keep a couple of quarts of Mobil 15W-50 and Mobil 20W-50 V-Twin incase I have to run the large generator on a 90 degree Fahrenheit or hotter day to power the whole house AC.

I would use GC in any temperature, but if the ambient is greater than 90 Fahrenheit then I think a thicker oil is a better choice.

Both of my generators have very low hours on them so any oil I use is chosen from information gleaned here on BITOG and not by hours of use.
 
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Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
HM oils get no love on BITOG. M1 makes one of the best. You will not have gasket and seal issues. Just more BITOG paranoia.


If i were going to run mobil 1 in my ope , it would be m1 high mileage. Its sl rated with more zinc.
 
I run Redline 5W30 in the 8kw GE standby generator (Briggs & Stratton 17hp). Fuel is NG from house. RL's low Nowak and additive package are well suited for an engine that runs for days at a time. 100 hour OCI. Oil is remarkably clean at change.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
HM oils get no love on BITOG. M1 makes one of the best. You will not have gasket and seal issues. Just more BITOG paranoia.


If i were going to run mobil 1 in my ope , it would be m1 high mileage. Its sl rated with more zinc.


But small engines don't need more zinc than SN oils have.
 
You do not know that and the added zinc certainly won't hurt. The HM also has a higher HT/HS which certainly will not hurt air-cooled OPE. Why do you think T5 is so loved?

Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
HM oils get no love on BITOG. M1 makes one of the best. You will not have gasket and seal issues. Just more BITOG paranoia.


If i were going to run mobil 1 in my ope , it would be m1 high mileage. Its sl rated with more zinc.


But small engines don't need more zinc than SN oils have.
 
So, what would all recommend for a 30 hp/ 20kw whole house genset that has to start at 15 below and run when it's above 90 in the summer. The manufacturer states 5/30 and service folks use Castrol 5/30 . The unit can be called on to run more than a week at times with oil level checks every 24-48 hours.
 
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