1MZFE 187,500 Miles

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This is in a 1999 Camry XLE. Well maintained. Heavy maintenance just completed. Ready for another 100k. The only major issue was the severe deterioration of the cam seals. They were "cooked" and very very brittle.
 
All Pennzoil in some form. YB, PP, and Walmart clearance Ultra for the last year. Still have 35 qts left of the Ultra.
 
Originally Posted By: renegade_987
Looks excellent for an almost 200K motor


Thank you. 3-4k OCI's, regular PCV changes, air filter changes, and TB kit every 90K (+/-). Ready to run to 300k before the next heavy maintenance. Also did the KYB quick struts all the way around. Very happy that I went with KYB, what a nice firm ride.
 
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Originally Posted By: Rolla07
U did the kyb's all around? Whered you get them..how much did whole job cost?


Got the front from Advance for $136 each and the rears from RockAuto for $120 each. Would have ordered all from Rock but they did not have the LF in stock. I read tons and tons of reviews and the KYB's sounded like they would suit my needs better. They bolted right in without issue (if removing the back seat is not an issue). I am very pleased, took before and after frame heights and the car is sitting about 1" higher on all corners. It rides like new.
 
No sludge monster here.
Could you see oil seepage from the cam seals before dis-assembly? Where to look? What is involved in replacing these?
Thanks
 
The valve cover gasket was cooked/cracked/brittle too I bet...
The golden tarnished metal is typical of Camry engines...must be something in the alloy...
Go for 200k! Heck 300k....!
 
Thanks for the pic! Did you happen to pull the rear valve cover? In my experience that bank gets quite a bit hotter than the front, just wondering if you looked there. Those seals will be cooked too.

I'm about to replace the rear valve cover gasket along with a bunch of other stuff (timing belt, etc.) at 300,000 miles in my Sienna. For reference, here is a thread I started when I did some maintenance at 232,000 miles:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2204086/1

Your regimen of short OCIs on synthetic is the way to go in these 1MZ-FE engines.
 
Originally Posted By: edwardh1
my camry needed cam seals at 105,000

how do shocks raise ride height?


The quick struts included new springs. I am sure it will settle back down in a few months. Since the springs were still original, I figured I would give the loaded struts a shot.

The cam seals have been leaking for awhile. I was just trying to get to the next TB change before replacing them.
 
Originally Posted By: mr_diy
No sludge monster here.
Could you see oil seepage from the cam seals before dis-assembly? Where to look? What is involved in replacing these?
Thanks


I couldn't see them actually dripping, it was more like a long term seeping from the seals. They probably should have been done 40,000 miles ago. Both valve covers had been leaking for about 18 months as well. Between these seals and the valve covers the engine compartment was nasty. I bought OEM seals as replacements and they went right in. Another word of advice is to buy new OEM valve cover bolts, they were $1.22 each. I read a few things about the old ones not cooperating during re-installation.

Here is a great thread including tools people used to pull seals. I used the same thing except I borrowed mine.

Seal pulling thread
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Thanks for the pic! Did you happen to pull the rear valve cover? In my experience that bank gets quite a bit hotter than the front, just wondering if you looked there. Those seals will be cooked too.

I'm about to replace the rear valve cover gasket along with a bunch of other stuff (timing belt, etc.) at 300,000 miles in my Sienna. For reference, here is a thread I started when I did some maintenance at 232,000 miles:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2204086/1

Your regimen of short OCIs on synthetic is the way to go in these 1MZ-FE engines.


I have looked at your pics before, looking good! I did not take any pics of the rear but it looked just like the front.

I did a laundry list of things that totaled up to about $1,200. TB kit, plugs, wires, all cooling hoses, t-stat, rad cap, valve cover gaskets, pcv, pcv grommet, cam seals, crank seal, A/C & P/S belts, fuel filter, and quick struts. Most all my parts were OEM. Amazon has a great price on an OEM Aisin TB kit (TKT-024) which includes the hydraulic tensioner and idler bearings. All the other OEM stuff came from a dealer in VA and it didn't add that much to the cost vs. aftermarket items. The nicest thing was the plug wires that came already loomed.

Now hopefully all I need to do in the next 112,000 miles is change oil and filters.

I have an OEM set of heater hoses (engine to heater coil) if anyone is interested. PM me.
 
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Well, you hit all the high spots in maintaining that engine. Those Aisin kits are awesome. Completely OEM parts for a Toyota and a good price too. Aisin isn't the OEM water pump supplier for my Accord, but I bought one of the kits anyway based on my past experience. It was of very high quality, everything made in Japan.

And yes those spark plug wires are ready to install which makes it easy.

Originally Posted By: Big Smoke
I did a laundry list of things that totaled up to about $1,200. TB kit, plugs, wires, all cooling hoses, t-stat, rad cap, valve cover gaskets, pcv, pcv grommet, cam seals, crank seal, A/C & P/S belts, fuel filter, and quick struts. Most all my parts were OEM. Amazon has a great price on an OEM Aisin TB kit (TKT-024) which includes the hydraulic tensioner and idler bearings. All the other OEM stuff came from a dealer in VA and it didn't add that much to the cost vs. aftermarket items. The nicest thing was the plug wires that came already loomed.

Now hopefully all I need to do in the next 112,000 miles is change oil and filters.

I have an OEM set of heater hoses (engine to heater coil) if anyone is interested. PM me.
 
Originally Posted By: Big Smoke
Originally Posted By: renegade_987
Looks excellent for an almost 200K motor


Thank you. 3-4k OCI's, regular PCV changes, air filter changes, and TB kit every 90K (+/-). Ready to run to 300k before the next heavy maintenance. Also did the KYB quick struts all the way around. Very happy that I went with KYB, what a nice firm ride.


Has your TB looked worn at 90k? I have been going by the original owners manual supplement that only calls for a TB replacement, at 90k, for "heavy commercial use". Otherwise no apparent replacement recommended. I plan to only replace when the water pump needs replacement.
 
The supposed sludge monster V6.

Yes it would sludge. But I suspect only if you pushed OCI to the limits or beyond.

Nice job!

Originally Posted By: renegade_987
Looks excellent for an almost 200K motor
 
Originally Posted By: mr_diy

Has your TB looked worn at 90k? I have been going by the original owners manual supplement that only calls for a TB replacement, at 90k, for "heavy commercial use". Otherwise no apparent replacement recommended. I plan to only replace when the water pump needs replacement.


It has looked great both times. First one was done right at 90k and the second one at 187K. I plan on going 112k on this one. The valve covers and cam seals needed done badly. That was the main reason for this TB job.
 
You're going to wait for a water pump failure? That's one component I'd rather not wait till it fails.

The belt itself usually looks pristine at changeout. However, the idler and tensioner pulleys will fail before the belt.

Originally Posted By: mr_diy
Has your TB looked worn at 90k? I have been going by the original owners manual supplement that only calls for a TB replacement, at 90k, for "heavy commercial use". Otherwise no apparent replacement recommended. I plan to only replace when the water pump needs replacement.
 
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