Few misc questions on my recent UOA, PSD 6.0, T6

[NattyBoh]

I recently had my oil report emailed to me via Blackstone. I had a few questions on why a few things were higher then normal. I posted the report in the UOA section but only 2 responses...
I was just wondering why there is a little more rust, lead, nickle and manganese?

What about why my fuel viscosity(s) are lower, plus the little bit of fuel present?

Here is the report, any my original thread...



So I bought this truck in April and it had 36k on the clock. When I did the oil analysis the clock had 42,848. The oil had around 5,000 +/-250 miles, as I couldnt remember the exact mileage on the odometer. Im running OEM filters with a NUC oil bypass filter, the filter is an amsoil EABP100. Im also running Rotella T6 5w40. I know its not needed, but the few bucks that it costs over say T5, I'll go with T6. It will help me to sleep better at night..

As they said, Im thinking about running it 7500 miles.

I did add 16oz of Archoil oil additive. I didnt NEED it, nor did have any stiction etc, but I thought why not? I mainly did it to help clean the engine in case the guy before me just didnt care... Im not going to add it again anytime soon.


With that being said, here is it. What do you guys think? TBN seems good as well. The only thing that hes me kinda worried is the things that are out of line. But maybe Im still getting wear int he engine, i.e. breaking in, since its still low mileage for that motor? Could it be that they are using the averages, and my truck is super super low mileage compared to the trucks that are of the same year, which is 2006...

None the less, let me know if I could have a monster in the making, or a ticking time bomb.



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[chubbs1]

I posted in your original thread, you have a very close to average (about as close as you can get) for that engine. There is absolutely NOTHING out of line except stuff that was in the Archoil. You probably didn't get many resposes because of such a "boring" UOA. Trust me, I want "boring" UOA's on all of my vehicles. Do not worry about anything here.

 

[NattyBoh]

Alright thanks for the elaboration. Could the motor still be breaking in, hence the slightly elevated levels?

 

[dnewton3]

Please don't start duplicate topics; UOAs belong in the proper forum.

 

[NattyBoh]

I didnt know if related talk went to that or this section, hence the double post. That topic stopped getting responses thats why I came here, thinking it was a better place for actual talk on the "whys" that I was wondering about.

 

[roadrunner1]

Your UOA is fine, FE is a bit high, but well within spec.

Viscosity is low, but normal for this engine/oil combination and doesn't hurt anything.
My 6.0 has had a steady diet of 10w-30 for over 100,000 mi. The HEUI system seems to prefer 10w-30 over 5w/15w-40.

The 10w-30 will shear the viscosity, but not to the degree that 5w-40 will, and as I mentioned, it doesn't hurt a thing.

My question that I am asking you is this;

If you are paying for a 5w-40 to get sheared to a 30 wt. in 5,000mi., why not start with a 30 wt. and run to 7,500 mi.as I do with lower wear numbers than you?

There are many UOA's posted here in this section of 6.0's, and Duramax's running 10w-30 with excellent results.

There are several 10w-30 brands available for roughly half the price you are paying for 5w-40.

These engines seem to thrive with a 30wt., don't fear the "lighter grade isn't heavy enough" mantra as my truck currently has 182,254 mi. and it hauls 4,000 lbs. down the highway several days a week.

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
Your UOA is fine, FE is a bit high, but well within spec.

Viscosity is low, but normal for this engine/oil combination and doesn't hurt anything.
My 6.0 has had a steady diet of 10w-30 for over 100,000 mi. The HEUI system seems to prefer 10w-30 over 5w/15w-40.

The 10w-30 will shear the viscosity, but not to the degree that 5w-40 will, and as I mentioned, it doesn't hurt a thing.

My question that I am asking you is this;

If you are paying for a 5w-40 to get sheared to a 30 wt. in 5,000mi., why not start with a 30 wt. and run to 7,500 mi.as I do with lower wear numbers than you?

There are many UOA's posted here in this section of 6.0's, and Duramax's running 10w-30 with excellent results.

There are several 10w-30 brands available for roughly half the price you are paying for 5w-40.

These engines seem to thrive with a 30wt., don't fear the "lighter grade isn't heavy enough" mantra as my truck currently has 182,254 mi. and it hauls 4,000 lbs. down the highway several days a week.



Yup, yes, yeah, fer-shur, youbetcha ...

Could not agree more on all counts.

The 6.0L PSD seems to prefer 10w-30; a good hearty dino is all you need for up to 7.5k miles, and possibly beyond.

Your engine is just fine; your wallet is being hurt, though.

You've flushed and cleaned the coolant system, and now filter it, right? That is far better for the 6.0 than any syn.

 

[roadrunner1]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
Your UOA is fine, FE is a bit high, but well within spec.

Viscosity is low, but normal for this engine/oil combination and doesn't hurt anything.
My 6.0 has had a steady diet of 10w-30 for over 100,000 mi. The HEUI system seems to prefer 10w-30 over 5w/15w-40.

The 10w-30 will shear the viscosity, but not to the degree that 5w-40 will, and as I mentioned, it doesn't hurt a thing.

My question that I am asking you is this;

If you are paying for a 5w-40 to get sheared to a 30 wt. in 5,000mi., why not start with a 30 wt. and run to 7,500 mi.as I do with lower wear numbers than you?

There are many UOA's posted here in this section of 6.0's, and Duramax's running 10w-30 with excellent results.

There are several 10w-30 brands available for roughly half the price you are paying for 5w-40.

These engines seem to thrive with a 30wt., don't fear the "lighter grade isn't heavy enough" mantra as my truck currently has 182,254 mi. and it hauls 4,000 lbs. down the highway several days a week.



Yup, yes, yeah, fer-shur, youbetcha ...

Could not agree more on all counts.

The 6.0L PSD seems to prefer 10w-30; a good hearty dino is all you need for up to 7.5k miles, and possibly beyond.

Your engine is just fine; your wallet is being hurt, though.

You've flushed and cleaned the coolant system, and now filter it, right? That is far better for the 6.0 than any syn.


Flush the cooling system like you've never flushed one before with Fleetguard Restore, then when you're done back-flush the system and install a coolant filter.

Use a diesel rated coolant (I use John Deere CoolGard II) and you have just eliminated the #1 reason for a 6.0 to fail.

 

[NattyBoh]

Roadrunner, Can you PM me on the org? Same username...

 

[NattyBoh]

So I emailed the owner of Archoil and this is what he had to say about my UOA.. I told him that I was not impressed..




Anthony,

I will let you know our cleaning will remove years of metal that is in the varnish and release it. I will forward this to our Powerstroke experts as well. We have found the clean cycle can have a higher count and the next will be much improved. The TBN Numbers are very good and the metals are considered in line with averages. We do see them go down at the next oil drain. I will await my experts help. From my eyes the oil sample seams good but I am not the expert.

Regards,
David

 

[beanoil]

Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
Your UOA is fine, FE is a bit high, but well within spec.

Viscosity is low, but normal for this engine/oil combination and doesn't hurt anything.
My 6.0 has had a steady diet of 10w-30 for over 100,000 mi. The HEUI system seems to prefer 10w-30 over 5w/15w-40.

The 10w-30 will shear the viscosity, but not to the degree that 5w-40 will, and as I mentioned, it doesn't hurt a thing.

My question that I am asking you is this;

If you are paying for a 5w-40 to get sheared to a 30 wt. in 5,000mi., why not start with a 30 wt. and run to 7,500 mi.as I do with lower wear numbers than you?

There are many UOA's posted here in this section of 6.0's, and Duramax's running 10w-30 with excellent results.

There are several 10w-30 brands available for roughly half the price you are paying for 5w-40.

These engines seem to thrive with a 30wt., don't fear the "lighter grade isn't heavy enough" mantra as my truck currently has 182,254 mi. and it hauls 4,000 lbs. down the highway several days a week.



Yup, yes, yeah, fer-shur, youbetcha ...

Could not agree more on all counts.

The 6.0L PSD seems to prefer 10w-30; a good hearty dino is all you need for up to 7.5k miles, and possibly beyond.

Your engine is just fine; your wallet is being hurt, though.

You've flushed and cleaned the coolant system, and now filter it, right? That is far better for the 6.0 than any syn.


Flush the cooling system like you've never flushed one before with Fleetguard Restore, then when you're done back-flush the system and install a coolant filter.

Use a diesel rated coolant (I use John Deere CoolGard II) and you have just eliminated the #1 reason for a 6.0 to fail.

Yes, yes, yes. Flush and refill with a diesel coolant. My personal like is Delo ELC, but any diesel rated coolant is OK. The hazard in the 6.0 is the way the oil, coolant, and egr interact in that engine. My mechanic recommends regular coolant maintenance, as well as some type of monitor, like a Banks IQ, or Bully Dog to keep an eye on oil and coolant temps. His experience shows that when coolant and oil temps begin to show a wider spread than about 10 degrees, that the oil cooler is clogged,or is beginning to be, and it's time to look into some maintenance or repair. The 6.0 will do well if just left stock. Tuners and power adders will stretch the head bolts. You may find this link will help at some point..http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60_manual/