Recommendation Oil/Fuel Add Supercharged Tundra!!!

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OilGuy2 said:
blitz16v said:
I drive a 2011 Tundra 5.7 with TRD Supercharger approx 510hp / 550tq.

Initially my first oil change they used conventional as this is what is recommended 5w/20.

5.7L V8 (3UR-FE, 3UR-FBE) engine
Oil grade: ILSAC multigrade engine oil
Recommended viscosity: SAE 5W-20 or 0W-20
SAE 5W-20 or 0W-20 engine oil
may be used. However, SAE
0W-20 is the best choice for
good fuel economy and good
starting in cold weather.

I agree with others that the Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula is a wise oil choice. A mix including a quart or two of 15W-50 may be better because of its resistance to shear forces and its ability to remain on the metal components after shutdown. The suggestion to use M1 5W-40 Turbo Truck is a good one because that oil has ester in it as well as PAO. See Material data Sheet.

The Germans make great cars and they do not recommend 0W-20 but 0W-40 instead. I think the German manufacturers have got it right.

Mobil recommends 0W-40 and 15W-50 for "street racers" and applications that involve heavy hauling up long grades. The start value of 0W-20 cannot be argued, but I have noticed that engines using oil that light have more valve train noise than engines using a bit higher grade on the second number. 0W-20 would be fine if you never tromp on the throttle or push the motor, IMO.

Here is a quote from Mobil on their 15W-50. They're talking about your truck.


spacer
Mobil 1 15W-50 Mobil 1 15W-50

Mobil 1 15W-50 is an advanced full synthetic motor oil designed to help provide exceptional wear protection for a smooth driving experience.
Mobil 1 15W-50

Mobil 1 15W-50 meets or exceeds the requirements of the industry and car manufacturers’ standards required for high-performance turbo-charged, supercharged gasoline and diesel multi-valve fuel-injected engines. Mobil 1 15W-50 is a winning, race-proven technology. It is especially suited for a wide variety of motorsports applications, towing and other severe service situations. Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic motor oil helps provide outstanding motor oil performance and protection for the winning edge. Mobil 1 is the official motor oil of NASCAR®

For every day, 0W-40 and for the days doing serious hauling, a quart or two of 15W-50 would act real nice in the sump.
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Originally Posted By: OilGuy2
You do not void your warranty by using a different viscosity than 0W-20. Under Federal Law, if Toyota chooses to void your warranty unless you use a specific oil, then they have to provide that oil and service free of charge. If you have to pay for oil changes, you can do whatever you want within the realm of engineering common sense.


While they cannot "void your warranty" based solely upon oil choice, unless it's a lube related failure, they are entitled to specify 0w-20 or 5w-20 or whatever grade they wish. U.S. Federal Law does not entitle people to do whatever the heck they want with maintenance and leave the manufacturer on the hook.

Originally Posted By: OilGuy2
Buy a case of 5W-20 and keep it at home. Save your receipt and if it ever comes up, show the 5W-20 receipt you have if that makes you more comfortable.


Couldn't that be construed as fraud?
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: OilGuy2
You do not void your warranty by using a different viscosity than 0W-20. Under Federal Law, if Toyota chooses to void your warranty unless you use a specific oil, then they have to provide that oil and service free of charge. If you have to pay for oil changes, you can do whatever you want within the realm of engineering common sense.


While they cannot "void your warranty" based solely upon oil choice, unless it's a lube related failure, they are entitled to specify 0w-20 or 5w-20 or whatever grade they wish. U.S. Federal Law does not entitle people to do whatever the heck they want with maintenance and leave the manufacturer on the hook.

Originally Posted By: OilGuy2
Buy a case of 5W-20 and keep it at home. Save your receipt and if it ever comes up, show the 5W-20 receipt you have if that makes you more comfortable.


Couldn't that be construed as fraud?


The Manufacturer can specify whatever it wants but if it doesn't make it available for free, it cannot use that specification as an excuse to void a warranty. Period.

Oil related failures are primarily due to a LACK of oil. Currently, some Manufacturers are specifying oil for "emissions and mileage" and not for engine preservation and wear. If engine preservation is important to you (if you keep your cars for a long time and very, very high mileage) you should rethink their recommendations and do what is necessary to preserve the motor's metallurgy.

Could the receipt issue be construed as fraud? Well it certainly is fraud for a Manufacturer to recommend an oil that is not the best for the engine's longevity and then claim that a customer voided their warranty because they used something to extend engine longevity, and it is also illegal.

The suggestion was to deal with "piece of mind", in a humorous way, because no Manufacturer is going to ever bring it up. A Dealer or a mechanic might bring it up, but you don't have to answer their questions and you don't have to prove a thing. THEY have to prove it and they are in legal trouble in the United States if they deny warranty service without proving it first. They cannot void a warranty based upon their unproven suspicion!

In another words, the LAW puts an end to the surly, baloney styled behavior that was going on nationwide by a not so trustworthy network of various dealerships (called "stealerships" for good reason) attempting to wring dollars from customers and then applying for warranty payment after the customer left the premises.

Manufacturers typically want to stand by their products and they want their customers to buy their products again. Denial of warranty claims at the dealership level (they are not authorized to deny warranty claims) needed to end and double dipping by dealerships for their services needed to be squashed.

Never took a car in under warranty and had a Service Manager hand you a bill and attempt to get payment for it? I have...several times, several dealerships. Some are still in business too. Must be a lot of customers cave in to that scenario and do not know about the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

Here is an excerpt:

Under this federal statute, a manufacturer who issues a warranty on your motor vehicle is prohibited from requiring you to use a service or maintenance item, unless such item is provided, free of charge, under your warranty or unless the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) waives this prohibition against the manufacturer.

Not bad, all things considered.
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Originally Posted By: OilGuy2
The Manufacturer can specify whatever it wants but if it doesn't make it available for free, it cannot use that specification as an excuse to void a warranty. Period.


Sorry, but that's absolutely wrong. Read the act. They cannot require you to use genuine, OEM parts and dealership service, unless it's free. They can, however, require you to purchase and use products that meet a certain standard. They cannot say you must use Genuine Nissan Ester Oil. They can say to use 5w-30 SM/GF-4 or better. They cannot say use only Matic S transmission fluid; they do say use Genuine Matic S transmission fluid or its equivalent.

If a manufacturer requires 5w-30 SM/GF-4 oil and 5,000 mile OCIs, and you decline to do that, if you have a lube related failure, you're going to be in trouble. They certainly have to prove that the non-spec oil or OCI caused the failure, but you will have a fight on your hands and a vehicle that's out of commission for an extended period of time.

There are reasons why companies like Amsoil back up their own products when they are non-spec. Manufacturers will give people grief.

No where in the act does it state, or even imply, that people can do whatever they wish with respect to maintenance. Run whatever grade or specification or OCI you wish. Under warranty, I'm going to follow the manufacturer's recommendations, and be able to truthfully document that I did so. After warranty, it's all up to me.

Further, the CAFE vs protection argument is old. I've run many cars for millions of miles in fleet usage using resource conserving oils, without the slightest hiccup, even using extended OCIs on dino. Current police and taxi service sees vehicles go to hundreds of thousands of miles using 5w-20.

I've heard it all before. 10w-30 was once too thin. 5w-30 then was too thin, and still is, to some. Now, the 20 grades are too thin.

It's the old boy who cried wolf story. People have called "too thin" for so long on North American and Japanese oil specifications that it's lost all credibility. Either that, or don't tell the same lie twice.
 
Well fast forward have 54k on her so far no issue, other than..

The 5.7 has a cam tower leak issue. This can pronounce itself at any time and its a factory botch with the beadline of sealant, between the valve covers which can create a small leak. I had this repair done recently its a 20 hour job, and they take the whole top off, put new gaskets in and reseal. Whilst I witnessed the camshafts and other interior parts the engine was [censored] and span. I had been running bulk Toyota 5w 20 since inception and recently had RP 5w 20 in there for a few k, but they just did an oil change with Toyota 5w 20 again, conventional. I will be doing the oil change again in January and can't help but notice the overwhelming hurrah of M1 0w-40. The engine rarely tows and is not driven as much now because I have a more fuel efficient daily.
 
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