Honda Snowblower Oil Questions

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kaseri

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I was gifted a brand new Honda 724 snowblower earlier this year. I've used the machine about 4 hours so far this winter and I'm ready to do my 1st oil change as well as move over to fully synthetic oil. I am very uneducated when it comes to oil so I'm hoping for some guidance. Machine and storage details are as follows -

1) Honda GX200 engine
2) Manual calls for 5w-30 (no other recommendations given)
3) Geographical location is Massachusetts
4) Stored in an attached unheated garage. I do have a small space heater in the garage which runs to minimize the chance of water pipes freezing.

I have no idea what any oil detergency means nor do I understand how the various API ratings affect the quality of oil for snowblower use.

Based on the above information which fully synthetic oil would you recommend?

Thank you in advance!
 
Someone gifted you a $2,500 snowblower? You shouldn't be asking questions here about something that doesn't matter -- focus on picking that person up a really nice gift.
 
Yes, it is quite a gift. Replaced an old Ariens 24" blower.

As the Honda is such an expensive machine I want to be sure to use the best oil I can in it. Again I'm no expert when it comes to oils and such so I'm looking for some guidance.
 
As the M1 is easily accessible would the High Mileage or Extended Performance versions be of any benefit?
 
Don't bother with the High Mileage or EP versions for your application. HM has seal swellers in it, for rejuvenating rubber seals and gaskets in old engines where the gaskets can get hard and brittle and begin to leak. You don't want to expose your brand new seals to seal swellers. EP is for running extended (like, over 8,000 mile) drain intervals in cars. You don't need it and it'd be a waste of money.
 
Is there a "technical" reason why the HM variant is your choice?

Maybe something else would be a better choice? What about the GC 0w30?
 
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Don't bother with the High Mileage or EP versions for your application. HM has seal swellers in it, for rejuvenating rubber seals and gaskets in old engines where the gaskets can get hard and brittle and begin to leak. You don't want to expose your brand new seals to seal swellers. EP is for running extended (like, over 8,000 mile) drain intervals in cars. You don't need it and it'd be a waste of money.


Makes sense to me. Is there anything out there that is of higher quality than M1?
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam

If I had to pick, it'd be the High Mileage variant -- best suited 5w-30 in their product line for your particular application.


What makes you say that? I worked at an Ariens/Stihl/Snapper/Gravely dealer that serviced any kind of small engine that came in from Honda, Kohler, Briggs, etc etc and I never once heard of a high mileage oil being used in a small engine, let alone being superior. And I saw a TON of engines pass through our shop.
 
Originally Posted By: kaseri
Is there a "technical" reason why the HM variant is your choice?

Maybe something else would be a better choice? What about the GC 0w30?


Man, you must have a pretty good life if this is what you agonize over on a Saturday night.

Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
What makes you say that? I worked at an Ariens/Stihl/Snapper/Gravely dealer that serviced any kind of small engine that came in from Honda, Kohler, Briggs, etc etc and I never once heard of a high mileage oil being used in a small engine, let alone being superior. And I saw a TON of engines pass through our shop.


Other Mobil 1 formulations (regular, Extended performance) are ILSAC GF-5/API SN oils that are most appropriate in automotive applications with concerns for optimizing emissions/fuel economy. High Mileage on the other hand has a stronger additive package (notably, higher level of zinc & phosphorus) and comes in on the other end of the 30-weight spectrum.

Will it likely make one-iota of difference? Nope. Then again, you asked me to make a choice.
 
Good life indeed. Just fascinated by details (to a fault even). Makes sense that my work involves finding "needles in a haystack"
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: kaseri
Is there a "technical" reason why the HM variant is your choice?

Maybe something else would be a better choice? What about the GC 0w30?


Man, you must have a pretty good life if this is what you agonize over on a Saturday night.

Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
What makes you say that? I worked at an Ariens/Stihl/Snapper/Gravely dealer that serviced any kind of small engine that came in from Honda, Kohler, Briggs, etc etc and I never once heard of a high mileage oil being used in a small engine, let alone being superior. And I saw a TON of engines pass through our shop.


Other Mobil 1 formulations (regular, Extended performance) are ILSAC GF-5/API SN oils that are most appropriate in automotive applications with concerns for optimizing emissions/fuel economy. High Mileage on the other hand has a stronger additive package (notably, higher level of zinc & phosphorus) and comes in on the other end of the 30-weight spectrum.

Will it likely make one-iota of difference? Nope. Then again, you asked me to make a choice.


You know what, I actually thought about zinc levels after I last posted.

I would go to power equipment store and buy Honda branded oil. The current automotive motor oils have less zinc in them. Zinc is an anti-wear additive except it is bad for catalytic converters in cars when used in high numbers, so in recent years zinc has been dialed back and replaced with other additives.

Your small Honda engine doesn't have the trouble of complying with emissions laws or anything, so an oil formulated for small engines probably has a stronger level of zinc. Mobil 1 or something will still work but I'd use a specific small engine oil personally.

Don't think of Honda's oil being as worse quality either or inadequate. It's what Honda, who designed and manufactured your engine, put in the thing in the first place.
 
Last edited:
M1 will perform just fine. The conventional stuff is excellent oil. It's now made from VISOM stock a Group III synthetic (that is to say a severely hydrotreated dino oil) and is very high quality.

As for "better" oils, yes, there are some. And, there are some specifically designed for air cooled engines. Amsoil makes some oils with higher zinc and phos for small engines. Mobil makes 10W-40 M1 for Motorcycles with much higher Z+P. Mobil Turbo Diesel Truck oil is also a very robust 5W-40 oil.

However, your Honda engine does not need it. They are engineered to operate on conventional oils.

Since it's a cold weather setup, I'd go with a synthetic that remains thin when cold. Take a look at the pour points of various oils in your viscosity range. Amsoil "signature" 0W-30 rates pour point at -60F. Where as their "small engine" 10W-30 is rated to -38F

Remember, pour point is, for practical purposes, where the oil will actually, very slowly come out of the bottle. It's not the "pumping point".

Group IV synthetics are thinner when cold.
 
1) synthetic

2) 5w-20 or 0w-20

3) Change oil in the spring every year along with prepping for the next season / winter storage.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
M1 will perform just fine. The conventional stuff is excellent oil. It's now made from VISOM stock a Group III synthetic (that is to say a severely hydrotreated dino oil) and is very high quality.

As for "better" oils, yes, there are some. And, there are some specifically designed for air cooled engines. Amsoil makes some oils with higher zinc and phos for small engines. Mobil makes 10W-40 M1 for Motorcycles with much higher Z+P. Mobil Turbo Diesel Truck oil is also a very robust 5W-40 oil.

However, your Honda engine does not need it. They are engineered to operate on conventional oils.

Since it's a cold weather setup, I'd go with a synthetic that remains thin when cold. Take a look at the pour points of various oils in your viscosity range. Amsoil "signature" 0W-30 rates pour point at -60F. Where as their "small engine" 10W-30 is rated to -38F

Remember, pour point is, for practical purposes, where the oil will actually, very slowly come out of the bottle. It's not the "pumping point".

Group IV synthetics are thinner when cold.


Thanks very much for the detailed response.
 
ANY 5W30 oil would be fine. I would run Valvoline Maxlife or Quaker State Defy myself. If you want to stick to synthetic, Mobil 1 High Mileage is a fine choice.
 
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