Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
I love changing my oil. When I drain synthetics at 6k it seems to be a waste. In South Dakota winters I'll put the synthetic oils in to help flow but I'm secretly dying inside because I want to change it after 4k. I secretly enjoy it! Longest I've ever gone on an oil was 7,400 miles. And that was with Mobil 1. I couldn't take it. I had to drain it and put something else in! Still had a strong TBN of 3.7 too.
Anyone else feel like this?
While I'm doing it I hate getting dirty and mucky but man I feel good afterwards. Taking the car for that initial spin after putting an approximate amount in, bringing it back - checking the oil level, adding a bit, then wiping the dipstick off, doing it again and getting it JUST perrrfect.
Can't change my oil in either car right now because I only got 4k on the Castrol and 1k on the Pennzoil. Blah, it's driving me nuts. Best course of action for me is to find those cheap conventionals on clearance or hit up the Havoline $1.99 deals and the Shell Formula $1.99 deals when they pop up!
I am actually impressed!
Here, someone actually simply admits to the addiction of the OCI, rather than try to self-justify the waste (and he fully admits it's waste) with some non-sensical approach to synthetic rhetoric; yada yada yada ...
That in mind, if you enjoy the OCIs, then I recommend the least expensive API qualified lube you can find. 3k-4k mile OCIs are meaningless to most any decent lube. I realize you've not told us much about the operational circumstances, so I presume that to mean your use is typically average. That in mind, any API certified lube will more than suffice. I have run ST dino oil out to 10k and 15k miles in two successive runs, and the wear attributes and cleanliness were fine. At 3-4k miles, you'll still be wasting lube, but at least you'll be minimizing the waste. And you certainly don't need syns for the cold starting, either. Go to the thin end of your allowed grade range and you'll be fine.
Try to find a local farm-supply chain or other house brand outlet; they will often have sales on their own API certified stuff. I often see Rural King oil (Citgo made) for $1.69/qrt on sale!
Havoline or Formula Shell are also excellent and a good buy at those prices. I have run a UOA on FS before and it did every bit as well as other brand-name stuff. Nothing wrong with using brand names, if you get a good deal on them. But their typical normal shelf prices can be too much for any hope of ROI in your described circumstances, versus the alternatives.
Funny you mention that. Like others, this site just gives me the "itch" to change it all the time, and it does feel good to do it. Heck, could even make me feel closer to the car somehow...
My problem is that I want the protection of syn...kinda got me hooked. Can no longer justify a syn for it (mileage or otherwise)on my Cav..and I'd like to change 2-3 times a year (which allows me to do all the checking I do at an oil change) which is good or checking on the car.
Could still go the cheapest syn route (house brands), or roll with the pennzoil syn blend...get the best of both worlds at slightly over 16 bucks a jug.
Man, the choices we have here....