I may switch to conventional because...

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Just did my first oil change in a year. It felt good. It was in for 6200 miles, sent off for a UOA to get the full Post Oil Change Euphoria effect, aahhh, nothing like it.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Our obsession could be a scientific publication for a Psychiatrist. :)


tribomania
grin.gif
 
I confess to the obsession, too.

I hassle both of my SILs when they are home to see if their cars need any work, just so I can feed my wrenching demons. They are starting to look at me funny.

I actually picked up an abandoned snow chucker recently because I didn't have anything to work on, so now my wife thinks I've crossed that line. I don't care, it makes me happy to bring something back from the dead.
 
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar

I actually picked up an abandoned snow chucker recently because I didn't have anything to work on, so now my wife thinks I've crossed that line. I don't care, it makes me happy to bring something back from the dead.


Ha, I think that's awesome.
 
I used to be that way, 3k or else park it. Finally saw the light after finding bitog and learning all about modern oils. For the last several years I've been doing M1 and 1 year oci. I've since modified that to, 1 year or 10k or 2 qts of makeup oil. My new 2013 GC calls for 10k, 1 year or the OLM, which ever comes 1st. I can live with that.

Wayne
 
Originally Posted By: hardcore302
I'm at 4000 miles and I'm itching..
This guy ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

... down with the sickness.
 
Originally Posted By: fsdork
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Sounds like you might be a good candidate for a 6 month OCI! Synthetic every October for winter's cold and el cheapo dino each April.


This is precisely what I've been doing. Lots of short trips (2-3km), so a little leery to run a full 1yr OCI. The -30*C temperatures last week made me feel as though the extra cost of the synthetic was a good investment.


For me, synthetic in very cold temps is a requirement.

You could always try a heavy duty synthetic like Amsoil ...sample (and leave in) after 6 months and see if it is still good...if it is you may be able to take it out a year. I am currently doing this test in the Grand Cherokee and we are definitely short tripping in cold temps. (Albeit with heated garage)
 
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Originally Posted By: zerosoma
I love changing my oil. When I drain synthetics at 6k it seems to be a waste. In South Dakota winters I'll put the synthetic oils in to help flow but I'm secretly dying inside because I want to change it after 4k. I secretly enjoy it! Longest I've ever gone on an oil was 7,400 miles. And that was with Mobil 1. I couldn't take it. I had to drain it and put something else in! Still had a strong TBN of 3.7 too.

Anyone else feel like this?

While I'm doing it I hate getting dirty and mucky but man I feel good afterwards. Taking the car for that initial spin after putting an approximate amount in, bringing it back - checking the oil level, adding a bit, then wiping the dipstick off, doing it again and getting it JUST perrrfect.

Can't change my oil in either car right now because I only got 4k on the Castrol and 1k on the Pennzoil. Blah, it's driving me nuts. Best course of action for me is to find those cheap conventionals on clearance or hit up the Havoline $1.99 deals and the Shell Formula $1.99 deals when they pop up!



I am actually impressed!

Here, someone actually simply admits to the addiction of the OCI, rather than try to self-justify the waste (and he fully admits it's waste) with some non-sensical approach to synthetic rhetoric; yada yada yada ...

That in mind, if you enjoy the OCIs, then I recommend the least expensive API qualified lube you can find. 3k-4k mile OCIs are meaningless to most any decent lube. I realize you've not told us much about the operational circumstances, so I presume that to mean your use is typically average. That in mind, any API certified lube will more than suffice. I have run ST dino oil out to 10k and 15k miles in two successive runs, and the wear attributes and cleanliness were fine. At 3-4k miles, you'll still be wasting lube, but at least you'll be minimizing the waste. And you certainly don't need syns for the cold starting, either. Go to the thin end of your allowed grade range and you'll be fine.

Try to find a local farm-supply chain or other house brand outlet; they will often have sales on their own API certified stuff. I often see Rural King oil (Citgo made) for $1.69/qrt on sale!

Havoline or Formula Shell are also excellent and a good buy at those prices. I have run a UOA on FS before and it did every bit as well as other brand-name stuff. Nothing wrong with using brand names, if you get a good deal on them. But their typical normal shelf prices can be too much for any hope of ROI in your described circumstances, versus the alternatives.
 
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The only reason I have flip flopped on this issue concerning the Hyundai is because of it being a d.i. turbo. So I have decided on a synthetic blend and short oci. This fuel dilution, shearing, deposits stuff seen in most d.i. uoa's has me paranoid. If not for that, I would go 'full' conventional too. I'm also oil OCD.
 
Originally Posted By: yougoJAY
I just went down to the garage and checked the oil on both cars...I feel better now


Haha. Well I'm nearing the 5k mark... I may just have to change the filter and then add some fresh oil to scratch the itch
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
Originally Posted By: yougoJAY
I just went down to the garage and checked the oil on both cars...I feel better now


Haha. Well I'm nearing the 5k mark... I may just have to change the filter and then add some fresh oil to scratch the itch
thumbsup2.gif



I like the 5,000 mile mark for oil changes & also don't feel guilty especially finding quality quarts for 2 or 3 dollars each. Between the 2 cars (even tho they don't accumulate mileage) and a lawn mower & power washer, I can change the oil on SOMETHING!
 
Are we really debating about spending an extra $8 every 5,000 to 7,500 miles?

Do you usually choose the best-in-class option for all of your other automotive purchases?

Do you buy premium tires, OE brakes and OE parts for your repairs?

These are all questions you should be asking yourself when making this decision...
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
I love changing my oil. When I drain synthetics at 6k it seems to be a waste. In South Dakota winters I'll put the synthetic oils in to help flow but I'm secretly dying inside because I want to change it after 4k. I secretly enjoy it! Longest I've ever gone on an oil was 7,400 miles. And that was with Mobil 1. I couldn't take it. I had to drain it and put something else in! Still had a strong TBN of 3.7 too.

Anyone else feel like this?

While I'm doing it I hate getting dirty and mucky but man I feel good afterwards. Taking the car for that initial spin after putting an approximate amount in, bringing it back - checking the oil level, adding a bit, then wiping the dipstick off, doing it again and getting it JUST perrrfect.

Can't change my oil in either car right now because I only got 4k on the Castrol and 1k on the Pennzoil. Blah, it's driving me nuts. Best course of action for me is to find those cheap conventionals on clearance or hit up the Havoline $1.99 deals and the Shell Formula $1.99 deals when they pop up!



I am actually impressed!

Here, someone actually simply admits to the addiction of the OCI, rather than try to self-justify the waste (and he fully admits it's waste) with some non-sensical approach to synthetic rhetoric; yada yada yada ...

That in mind, if you enjoy the OCIs, then I recommend the least expensive API qualified lube you can find. 3k-4k mile OCIs are meaningless to most any decent lube. I realize you've not told us much about the operational circumstances, so I presume that to mean your use is typically average. That in mind, any API certified lube will more than suffice. I have run ST dino oil out to 10k and 15k miles in two successive runs, and the wear attributes and cleanliness were fine. At 3-4k miles, you'll still be wasting lube, but at least you'll be minimizing the waste. And you certainly don't need syns for the cold starting, either. Go to the thin end of your allowed grade range and you'll be fine.

Try to find a local farm-supply chain or other house brand outlet; they will often have sales on their own API certified stuff. I often see Rural King oil (Citgo made) for $1.69/qrt on sale!

Havoline or Formula Shell are also excellent and a good buy at those prices. I have run a UOA on FS before and it did every bit as well as other brand-name stuff. Nothing wrong with using brand names, if you get a good deal on them. But their typical normal shelf prices can be too much for any hope of ROI in your described circumstances, versus the alternatives.



Funny you mention that. Like others, this site just gives me the "itch" to change it all the time, and it does feel good to do it. Heck, could even make me feel closer to the car somehow...
grin.gif


My problem is that I want the protection of syn...kinda got me hooked. Can no longer justify a syn for it (mileage or otherwise)on my Cav..and I'd like to change 2-3 times a year (which allows me to do all the checking I do at an oil change) which is good or checking on the car.

Could still go the cheapest syn route (house brands), or roll with the pennzoil syn blend...get the best of both worlds at slightly over 16 bucks a jug.

Man, the choices we have here....
 
Originally Posted By: yougoJAY
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
Originally Posted By: yougoJAY
I just went down to the garage and checked the oil on both cars...I feel better now


Haha. Well I'm nearing the 5k mark... I may just have to change the filter and then add some fresh oil to scratch the itch
thumbsup2.gif



I like the 5,000 mile mark for oil changes & also don't feel guilty especially finding quality quarts for 2 or 3 dollars each. Between the 2 cars (even tho they don't accumulate mileage) and a lawn mower & power washer, I can change the oil on SOMETHING!


Can you believe I've actually considered buying ANOTHER car so I could change the oil on it too? I mean among other cool benefits, but hey...it's another oil change, right?
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Are we really debating about spending an extra $8 every 5,000 to 7,500 miles?

Do you usually choose the best-in-class option for all of your other automotive purchases?

Do you buy premium tires, OE brakes and OE parts for your repairs?

These are all questions you should be asking yourself when making this decision...




I don't understand.
 
Originally Posted By: daves87rs



Funny you mention that. Like others, this site just gives me the "itch" to change it all the time, and it does feel good to do it. Heck, could even make me feel closer to the car somehow...
grin.gif


My problem is that I want the protection of syn...kinda got me hooked. Can no longer justify a syn for it (mileage or otherwise)on my Cav..and I'd like to change 2-3 times a year (which allows me to do all the checking I do at an oil change) which is good or checking on the car.

Could still go the cheapest syn route (house brands), or roll with the pennzoil syn blend...get the best of both worlds at slightly over 16 bucks a jug.

Man, the choices we have here....


I'd go Pennzoil Syn Blend!
 
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Are we really debating about spending an extra $8 every 5,000 to 7,500 miles?

Do you usually choose the best-in-class option for all of your other automotive purchases?

Do you buy premium tires, OE brakes and OE parts for your repairs?

These are all questions you should be asking yourself when making this decision...




I don't understand.


My point was -- if you have no issue spending money for the "best" parts for your car, then what's the problem with spending a few extra dollars for the best oil? It is such a small expense compared to the other costs.
 
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