I need a fast Hydraulic Fluid answer!

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My friend owns a 2000 New Holland LW190. In the summer in a desperate financial scare, he sprung a leak and couldn't afford the repair bill until Fall, so he filled the machine up with the thick Shield 303. Now the machine is used for pushing snow with a snow box. The implements are barely used until he goes to load a salt truck. The issue is, the very thick Shield 303 tractor hydraulic fluid was left in it, and raising the bucket is almost impossible even after the machine is as warm as it can get, in this 0-15*F climate.

Our question is, is there an additive that can be used to thin this stuff down (that is gasket and seal safe), or are we going to have to drain it and fill it up with the proper grade? Since it is 15*F today, we are seriously trying to avoid working outside as much as possible, and unfortunately there is no garage to work in.

My idea was to drain most of it out, and fill it up with very thin oil, which will mix with the residual thick oil, and mix it to a manageable grade.

any suggestions welcome.
 
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
Just put the right stuff in. It'll be mostly that.
+1 The spec fluid will do the trick even if more of the stiffer fluid remains than you would want.
 
ugh that stuff is junk.

anytime it has a disclaimer that says
Quote:
"when a product of this quality is recommended"


its also anemic on the additive side and carries this disclaimer

Quote:
Misapplication may cause severe performance problems.
303 Tractor Hydraulic Fluid has not been recommended by
any manufacturer since 1977


303 fluid I believe was a spec from the 70's they list a bunch of manufacturers but it was for their equipment from that time period.

http://images.peakauto.com/303_specs.pdf

for more details, vi of... 61 POUR POINT of 0F
 
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How much does the system hold? dump that 303 [censored] and pour some JD high-guard low viscosity in, you'll be good to go.
 
Another vote for draining it and replacing with the correct stuff. Even if is cold as heck, it should drain ok. Personally I would run it after the first drain/fill for a couple of hours then drain fill it again. Depending on what % of the fill comes out you may have most of the junk out by the second change. And I bet it runs way better.
 
Originally Posted By: daman
How much does the system hold? dump that 303 [censored] and pour some JD high-guard low viscosity in, you'll be good to go.


It holds ~25 gallons
 
I understand the complaints against 303. But this man is believer in anything cheap or free. He changed the oil in his truck yesterday, and got 5 quarts of 20w/50 Castrol for free. I mentioned it might be a little thick for winter, and he said back "It doesnt matter what the numbers say, all that matters is that its Castrol" (facepalm)

Anyway, thanks everyone for the advice, I'll try to convince him into buying the proper stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: 79sunrunner
I understand the complaints against 303. But this man is believer in anything cheap or free. He changed the oil in his truck yesterday, and got 5 quarts of 20w/50 Castrol for free. I mentioned it might be a little thick for winter, and he said back "It doesnt matter what the numbers say, all that matters is that its Castrol" (facepalm)

Anyway, thanks everyone for the advice, I'll try to convince him into buying the proper stuff.

It sounds like his reasoning is flawed and he's on the path of making things worse not better. Drain and refill with better fluid and call it a day.
 
Originally Posted By: 79sunrunner
I understand the complaints against 303. But this man is believer in anything cheap or free. He changed the oil in his truck yesterday, and got 5 quarts of 20w/50 Castrol for free. I mentioned it might be a little thick for winter, and he said back "It doesnt matter what the numbers say, all that matters is that its Castrol" (facepalm)

Anyway, thanks everyone for the advice, I'll try to convince him into buying the proper stuff.


wash your hands and walk away... some people you cant help.
 
it depends on if its cheap 303 fluid or something that meets or exceeds 303 specs.

the stuff you linked has a vi of 140+ and a pourpoint of -45
It looks fairly quality and while not OEM fluid probably would work fine or at least work all year.

the OP's stuff has a vi of 61 and a Pourpoint of 0
so it basically turns into tar probably about 10F out.

pour point isnt pump point. So its probably not useable under 20F and would have issues even then.

also lack of additives in the op's 303 shield will cause excessive wear. Probably costing 10000$ or more to fix.
It gets really expensive to fix equipment that has the wrong fluid in it.

I wouldnt walk away I'd run away.
If you put the right fluid in now and it blows up it will suddenly be your fault instead of his.


The motor oil is bad too. 20w50 at -10F is thicker than some 5w30 at -35F
 
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