what gasket maker sealant to use on this (pic)

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it's the oil sending port on a ls1 engine. it's an aluminum piece, and aluminum engine block. the gasket with the black impregnated o-ring has been seeping. was thinking of not reusing the gasket in the pic and using some kind of gasket maker instead. what would be best? it will see oil temperatures to 250° F and it's right next to the catalytic converter so it may see 300°-400° heat from that on the outside.
 
forgot to mention, i have some mr. gasket make your own material. one is thick stuff around 0.080" and dark gray, the kind you would use as a carburetor base gasket. the other is thin tan fiber gasket stuff, 1/64" thick karropak i think. wondering if i should use that, i'm worried that any rtv might not hold under 80 psi of oil pressure.
 
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Hmm, if some fiber got loose from that make-a-gasket from an imperfect cut would that be floating around in the oil system?

Is the proper gasket unobtainable? Mentioning the 80 psi has me a little squeamish now.
 
I would remove the old go & match up & spend the 50 cents or so for an oring.
 
80018.jpg



I like this stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: WANG
80018.jpg



I like this stuff.
Me too. I use it with a gasket though. I would spend the money for a new gasket. Goop it on both sides with the Forma- gasket, let the stuff cure for 20 minutes
 
Considering that it is holding back full engine oil pressure, I would get a new oem replacement gasket. I also try to avoid using any rtv or sealant where it could potentially plug an oil passage.
 
Originally Posted By: Christopher Hussey
Considering that it is holding back full engine oil pressure, I would get a new oem replacement gasket. I also try to avoid using any rtv or sealant where it could potentially plug an oil passage.


This^^^^^


Originally Posted By: Smoky14
Put a straight edge across the pieces to make sure they are not deformed.


And THIS^^^^^


Failing both of those, I'd recommend Permatex Ultra Grey and no gasket. Clean with a residue free cleaner, apply, assemble and let sit overnight. You'll have no leaks.
 
i got a new gasket from the dealer today, $5.
it's different from the oem one, i assume they redesigned it seeing how the original one was seeping.
the new one is more metallic entirely with a metal sealing ring in
the center. there is no rubber material in it like in the original one pictured in my first post. and this new gasket is pre-bent in the center sort of, so when it's installed and you clamp the parts together it crushes the gasket straight and causes it to seal. I'm pretty sure it's a one time use gasket.

there is no warpage. the aluminum block pictured above is thick, and it is straight. and the mating surface on the block is straight.

and when did aviation #3 come out? what's the difference between #3 and #2 ?

I also have permatex hylomar hpf gasket dressing and flange sealant.

I don't plan on removing this part ever again.
what would be best to use, the hylomar or the aviation #2 ?


here is a pic of the new gasket
12611384_1_ml.jpg
 
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never mind about the aviation #3 #2, i have an old bottle that doesn't say #3 on it and for some reason thought it said #2.

ended up going with very light coat of permatex aviation on both mating surfaces. if it ever leaks i'll post back.
 
Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
the gasket with the black impregnated o-ring has been seeping.


For that gasket with the o-ring, I'd either use Permatex Ultra Black, or the Permatex rubber gasket dressing.
 
I use Permatex Gray on both sides of the original gasket when I do these at work on '99-'06 LS engine trucks. I don't know if that's the best way, but it seems to work. They don't leak afterwards. This is a pretty common leak point on LS engines. Luckily it's a very easy fix.

I would imagine Right Stuff would also be good for this. I'm sure the Aviation Form-A-Gasket will work great too. It's not a complex thing to seal off.
 
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