I was wanting to chang my ATF, but not like this!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Correction, make that the F4A42 trans.


I didn't even catch the model # typo...Mitsubishi automatics are bad news.
 
Originally Posted By: Ken42
Spinning the wheels such as in snow or gravel can cause this. It's a econo car not a racer.



It's funny you should mention this. I was looking at what was left of the diff cross pin and saw a good deal of wear on it. The only thing that comes to mind was trying to plow through 10+ inches of snow one day (last year) to get to work. I'll put money down that says it was the culprit of the wear. Not sure if or how it played into the retainer coming out of the pin though.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Correction, make that the F4A42 trans.


I didn't even catch the model # typo...Mitsubishi automatics are bad news.



That's why I asked....my old (1992) Sonata (bought new and maintained very well) had it's Mitsubishi KM175 AT [censored] out at 109K despite 30K ATF changes and gentle driving.
Hyundai quality jumped when they started designing their own trannies, IMO.
 
Wife's 2001 Hyundai was a fine cheap commuter except for the Mitsubishi A4AF3/A4BF2 that was in it. Had multiple "Pulse Generator" failures which I think is a fancy term for speed sensor on the input & output shafts. The ATF always smelled horrible and I contemplated changing it myself but after it was in & out of the shop so much I figure it was getting a drain & fill each time. Then it finally got a rebuilt one put in and I figured best not to touch it myself to preserve any warranty we had.

All of the problems were from 0 - 33,000 miles with the replacement shortly after that. It made it with no issues to 100k after that. The one car I would tell everyone & their mother to learn manual for.
 
I thought that I'd update this thread with some pics and end results... I'd been busy with harvest and haven't had much time, but managed to complete the swap. Harvest is now done and we've moved on to tillage so there is some time to spare.

When I crawled under the car, here is what I saw... Not a pretty sight.

20131023_085506_LLS_zpsfdcfced6.jpg


I was busy tearing into the car, removing mounts, wires, bells and whistles when this just missed my noggin... For the uninformed, these parts don't typically fall off of a vehicle without some CATASTROPHIC precipitating factor.

20131024_190226_HDR_zps28651b80.jpg



This was the revised view
20131024_190300_LLS_zpsb1d7c245.jpg



Now I've managed to accomplish something...
20131024_190547_LLS_zps6eb8b426.jpg


Shortly thereafter, I managed to remove the highly ventilated and slightly lightened gearbox....
20131025_160211_HDR_zps01c16206.jpg


And finally a view of the gaping hole left when I pulled the wounded gearbox.
20131025_160101_HDR_zpsc9ce8433.jpg



While the car was down, I repaired the stripped out oil pan. When the car was built, Hyundai put in a drain plug that was too short. They have a TSB out and a longer plug to address the issue. When the previous owner (MIL and FIL) had it, they always had a quick lube or dealer service it. Well, they stripped the threads. To remedy the problem, they put in a longer plug (similar to the new OE replacement), but the first several threads were still gone, leaving only a couple at the end. So I took it off and bought a thread repair kit, drilled, tapped and inserted the threaded insert. Good as new.

Evidently I forgot to take any more pictures of the installation of the new (used) tranny, so you'll just have to settle for the review of the end result.

Once I got everything put together, the engine fired right up, no nasty noises and no CEL. Fluid levels were confirmed/topped off and down the road I went. The first few shifts were slightly harsh, but after that, it's working flawlessly. I can say, it's noticeably "tighter" when dropped into gear and shifts better too. There is now around 500 miles on it with no issues... I'd say she's a keeper.

The transmission was originally supposed to cost 500.00 but the yard that claimed to have it didn't. They wouldn't tell me where it was either. Some digging found it quite a drive east of me at the reduced price of 400.00 plus a 50.00 core and taxes. I can't drive there and back again for 50.00, so they can keep the core charge. So for the price of a hearty meal for my friend and a tank of fuel in his truck, we went and got it. New seals for the torque converter and output shafts, some exhaust gaskets and fluids brought the tranny replacement bill to around 550.00 (less fuel and food) for a 45k mile used tranny.

Since we're all BITOG'ers, I realize that inquiring minds want to know. The engine received Quaker State Ultimate Durability in 5w-30 with an OE Hyundai filter and the auto box got Eneos Type SP from NAPA. No additives or preservatives were used.
 
Yes it was. There was a date break in the production - those from 12/00 and those from 01/01, with the older units getting a serviceable spin on filter and the newer ones a non serviceable internal filter.
 
Quote:
Once I got everything put together, the engine fired right up, no nasty noises and no CEL. Fluid levels were confirmed/topped off and down the road I went. The first few shifts were slightly harsh, but after that, it's working flawlessly. I can say, it's noticeably "tighter" when dropped into gear and shifts better too. There is now around 500 miles on it with no issues... I'd say she's a keeper.


Way to go Eric. We Iowans are an enterprising bunch of "getter done" people!
grin.gif
 
Did you flush out the AT cooler, or replace it? Garbage from a dead transmission can get trapped in the cooler, and then enter the replacement transmission and shorten the life of the replacement parts. Some people solved this problem with a Magnefine filter downstream of the cooler.
 
I kind of took an educated gamble on that. I did in fact flush it out with a flush kit, figuring that since the transmission went with a bang (literally), there would have been minimal debris in the system. Another reason for not replacing the cooler (radiator) was money - I was being cheap. Also, if you look closely in the pic of the engine bay, you can see a Magnefine in one of the cooler lines... I've had one in there for quite some time now. I simply changed it out once everything was flushed and ready.
 
Dumb question: with this much damage, once it started making noise, was there really any chance of making this a cheaper repair? Something was binding, which to me implies a rebuild at the minimum.
 
Well it sucks to have this type of misfortune but we earn bonus points by really shining in times of stress. Enjoy them bonus points! Good job!
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Dumb question: with this much damage, once it started making noise, was there really any chance of making this a cheaper repair? Something was binding, which to me implies a rebuild at the minimum.


The answer is maybe. If I tore it out and had it rebuilt at the very first sign of trouble, then likely yes. But it took some time to figure trouble was brewing. I wasn't sure if it was a hydraulic or mechanical issue, as it did some delayed shifting too at times. After it did it a few times, it probably would have been too late but not sure... Not a transmission guy. My guess is too late as the diff pin would have been hanging part way out and grinding on the case (like the Chrysler minivan transmissions). Now the first time I heard any actual noise, it was already WAY too late. First noise was POP!, directly followed by the smell of ATF.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Well it sucks to have this type of misfortune but we earn bonus points by really shining in times of stress. Enjoy them bonus points! Good job!


Originally Posted By: meep
Very Impressed. Nice Work!


Thanks guys! I just try to do the best I can with what I have.
 
Good Job, Eric.

That tranny looks suspiciously like the one in my daughter's 2001 Galant.

Hmmmmmmm ..... Wonder if this is lurking in the future for us?
 
It is quite close. Not exactly but still shares many design features I bet.

I believe the root of the problem was the retaining pin for the diff cross pin (a small, glorified roll pin) sheared and allowed it to slide down and do it's thing to my case.

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, there was one time I was trying to get to work and was attempting to plow my way through snow. I knew it was not a good practice, but figured once wouldn't hurt. I'm pretty sure I was very wrong. Oh well, just an excuse to stay home next time I suppose. Closer examination on the dead transmission carcass showed heavy wear on the cross pin and spider gears. I'm betting one or both spider gears seized for a split second, grabbed the pin and spun it against the retaining pin, shearing it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top