Fill battery with water

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Am i supposed to pry these covers off with a screwdriver and check the water level. It looks like it but i do not see any instructions to do so. Battery is 9 years old. If i am supposed to fill it would one fill with tap water be bad, i do not have any distilled water.

 
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Yes, you carefully pry off those caps with a screwdriwer. Then top each cell up with distilled water to cover the lead grid, or to the bottom of the fill tube.

However at 9 years old I would just replace it. You definitely got your money's worth!
 
A JCI battery with felt washers. Way to go.

If I thought I would get distilled water in the next few days I would wait for the distilled water. If it will be months, then tap water.

Wear safety goggles.

Wipe off the screwdriver after.
 
Let sleeping dogs lie! You could pry & check but I think you "got a good one". No sense potentially getting contaminants in etc.

That little stain of burped acid is very, very small and not worth pursuing.
 
I'd keep topped wits distilled water for $1/gal or less, then gently charge it on a smart charger at 2A. It may not need much, or only a cell or two may be low.

The distilled water is also good for topping up your cooling system.
 
Scurvy, The 2 caps came off nicely by gently prying each end with a screwdriver. Good advice.

Barkleymut, “Distilled water is 88 cents a gallon at my local walmart”. Good information, in the past i looked at my local grocery store and they do not sell it, so i did not know where to buy it. The water was over the plates so i just left it.

Donald, “A JCI battery with felt washers. Way to go.” I added the felt washers. Are you saying this is good or bad? GOOD advice on wearing safety goggles and wiping screwdriver. Back when i was young and i knew everything, i did not need any stinking safety goggles when working with batteries, and sure enough i got a tiny spec of acid in my eye and screamed like a banshee.

JHZR2, “gently charge it on a smart charger at 2A. It may not need much, or only a cell or two may be low.” It looks like the two battery connections just needed to be cleaned. Van started right up with no charging. But i will listen carefully to the cranking over the next few weeks.

NightHawk55, It is a Autocraft Titanium 34/78-4. You can not buy this battery anymore. I also found a review from Consumer reports on this battery from years ago and they only gave it a medium score.
 
Good run anyway Wally , 9 years is not too common .

If you find it is getting weak after sitting then that would indicate it's just about done or even one cell is starting to go will cause problems. Cold is coming , I just changed the original battery out of the wife's Fusion a couple weeks back , it hardly had any reserve left at about 7 years .
 
I did a cold cranking voltage test. I had 11vdc. I did not trickle charge beforehand. So from this test i think the battery is in good shape.
 
ok tons of bad advice here. that battery appears to be a maintenance free! you do not add to those when they are done they are done. where you were prying on those (caps) are actually vents and if you pried them off you effectively screwed it up. GET A NEW BATTERY!
if you want to see if the battery will accept a charge do a 3 minute quick charge. the battery should go below 15.5 volts if it is good above that and its sulfated. however prying off those vent caps is a bad thing!
 
There is nothing wrong with pulling the caps and adding water. "maintenance free" implies less offgassing and better recombination, but they will still lose water and adding some is good for life.

On the other hand, fast charging above a 0.3C rate will create kinetics that will prevent recombination (and thus guarantee loss of water), as well as a high enough voltage to ensure electrolysis. 15.5V, depending upon the temperature is too high for being careful and gentle with the battery. It will create damage and capacity fade, if not release of lead floc that will be lost permanently and reduce overall capacity.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Wipe off the screwdriver after.

Yes, AFTER use, and BEFORE you shove it your pocket, another piece of wisdom I learned as a kid on the farm.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
There is nothing wrong with pulling the caps and adding water. "maintenance free" implies less offgassing and better recombination, but they will still lose water and adding some is good for life.

On the other hand, fast charging above a 0.3C rate will create kinetics that will prevent recombination (and thus guarantee loss of water), as well as a high enough voltage to ensure electrolysis. 15.5V, depending upon the temperature is too high for being careful and gentle with the battery. It will create damage and capacity fade, if not release of lead floc that will be lost permanently and reduce overall capacity.


We are covering batteries right now in class and I can tell you that you are misinformed. A 3 min quick charge test should yield a result of 15.5v or lower if it is higher it is sulfated.
Also you should never remove those caps! That's not there designed purpose.
I'm willing to believe the text book and the master technician who does teaches the class. The boom clearly states it. Those caps are for venting and shouldn't be tampered with. I'm not trying to be rude but when messing with something like a battery it is best to yield on the side of caution and to also be very informed before tampering with one. Just because your method can be done does not make it right safe or at all a good idea. It's the same thing when people hook up a battery and hook up positive first they may do it for years before they fry something. Just because it doesn't dry something everytime doesn't make it an acceptable method.
 
You can also get the battery load tested at AAP(where the battery is from) and it'll tell you the condition of the battery. If it doesn't check out well enough as winter is coming, get a new battery right there on the spot!
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
There is nothing wrong with pulling the caps and adding water. "maintenance free" implies less offgassing and better recombination, but they will still lose water and adding some is good for life.

On the other hand, fast charging above a 0.3C rate will create kinetics that will prevent recombination (and thus guarantee loss of water), as well as a high enough voltage to ensure electrolysis. 15.5V, depending upon the temperature is too high for being careful and gentle with the battery. It will create damage and capacity fade, if not release of lead floc that will be lost permanently and reduce overall capacity.


We are covering batteries right now in class and I can tell you that you are misinformed. A 3 min quick charge test should yield a result of 15.5v or lower if it is higher it is sulfated.
Also you should never remove those caps! That's not there designed purpose.
I'm willing to believe the text book and the master technician who does teaches the class. The boom clearly states it. Those caps are for venting and shouldn't be tampered with. I'm not trying to be rude but when messing with something like a battery it is best to yield on the side of caution and to also be very informed before tampering with one. Just because your method can be done does not make it right safe or at all a good idea. It's the same thing when people hook up a battery and hook up positive first they may do it for years before they fry something. Just because it doesn't dry something everytime doesn't make it an acceptable method.


From Interstate:
http://www.batteries-faq.com/activekb/questions.php?questionid=6

Quote:

How do I maintain my battery?

Note: Interstate’s automotive and commercial starting and Marine/RV batteries are considered Maintenance-Free products under normal operating conditions. However, in the event of an extreme overheat/overcharge situation, the batteries may need to be checked for water loss.

We recommend the following:

1. How to check the water level and add water:
If your battery has removable vent caps then they can be pried off with a flat-head screwdriver. Once removed, you will see individual vent wells. Look down into each individual cell to make sure that the water is covering the lead plates and is at the proper level. Add water to any cells that are low on water. Always use distilled water that is available from a supermarket to fill the battery in order to prevent chemicals from contaminating the battery.

2. How to determine the proper water level:
Ideally, the water level should be no higher than just below or to the bottom of the tubes (in a 12-volt battery there are 6 tubes) that go down into the battery. To avoid damage to the battery, make sure the fluid level never drops below the tops of the lead plates in each of the cells. Also, avoid adding too much water, which may result in acid overflow and damage around the battery.
 
I've found that instructors can sometimes be wrong. It's good to query many other sources. Otherwise, you're learning good stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
There is nothing wrong with pulling the caps and adding water. "maintenance free" implies less offgassing and better recombination, but they will still lose water and adding some is good for life.

On the other hand, fast charging above a 0.3C rate will create kinetics that will prevent recombination (and thus guarantee loss of water), as well as a high enough voltage to ensure electrolysis. 15.5V, depending upon the temperature is too high for being careful and gentle with the battery. It will create damage and capacity fade, if not release of lead floc that will be lost permanently and reduce overall capacity.


We are covering batteries right now in class and I can tell you that you are misinformed. A 3 min quick charge test should yield a result of 15.5v or lower if it is higher it is sulfated.
Also you should never remove those caps! That's not there designed purpose.
I'm willing to believe the text book and the master technician who does teaches the class. The boom clearly states it. Those caps are for venting and shouldn't be tampered with. I'm not trying to be rude but when messing with something like a battery it is best to yield on the side of caution and to also be very informed before tampering with one. Just because your method can be done does not make it right safe or at all a good idea. It's the same thing when people hook up a battery and hook up positive first they may do it for years before they fry something. Just because it doesn't dry something everytime doesn't make it an acceptable method.


After engineering power systems that utilize large arrays of high performance batteries for many years, I can tell you that your instructor, in the interest of explaining stuff to a class of people who have no formal physics or chemistry training, has simplified things excessively.

Do you understand WHY the 15.5V number is given?

Do you understand why people would advise to not mess with the caps?

The actual physical and chemistry-based reasons?

Because that is what truly governs the situation.

Not opening caps is a great way to sell new batteries. Of course you would be advised not to. Also, sloppy technique can allow junk to fall in, or in the case of a pressure build-up or boilover, electrolyte and gas to release.

On a clean, rested battery with an acceptable voltage at the terminals and no charging or load, it is fine.

The amount of current that you can put into a battery is governed by the battery's impedance, and for a power supply to feed "quick charge" (which is meaningless, how many ampere?) at high current into the battery, on a sulfated (high impedance) battery, the voltage has to go higher to overcome and thus youll see higher voltages. Of course higher voltages will cause electrolysis of the water and gassing, which will not recombine fast enough. An acceptable battery will not need a high amount of voltage to put in the current, and will accept it readily, resulting in lower voltage. Resting voltage at 100% is roughly 12.7V, temperature dependent, a bit higher with a surface charge. It will not be much over 13V sitting after a charge, and when the surface charge naturally bleeds off, it will rest at the value I provided.

Remember that the chemistry of the plates and those caps are there to allow recombination of the hydrogen and oxygen formed at the electrodes to recombine. Its not a "valve" with a set opening pressure, its really just a friction fit to help prevent much gas from escaping, but it can indeed still escape and dry out. This is why other than on special occasions, fast charge is NOT recommended. Excessive gassing will occur that may not recombine, and a locally flammable atmosphere can occur.

Topping off an old battery with some water and charging it slowly, assuming that the battery reads a decent voltage (no shorted cells) and wasnt too dry is perfectly fine. As with any chemical system, one must emphasize caution and care to prevent injury, especially if something is not operating correctly and is being checked.

This situation sounds to me like PM, so while caution around acid and electricity is warranted, the situation isnt the same.

The classroom instruction is sound for folks who arent really aware of the dangers and may cause liability to themselves and the teachinng materials. Doesnt mean it is the end-all, be-all answer for a careful DIYer or mechanic.
 
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