1993 Chevrolet Blazer running thread

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Youre right, I showed IACV, not EGR - have EGR cleaning and gasket pics elsewhere (gasket is ruined when EGR is pulled, recommend the gasket with the screen in it)...

need to dig those pics up!
 
JHZR2, Do you know anywhere I can go to to get this thing timed without any reasons why the timing is "pretty much ok"?
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I really have to find somewhere that will actually TIME this thing.
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Then let them do it while I wait.. as that is the second issue here.. I can't "drop it off"


Why not? Cant you get a ride to and from work for a few days? Can you get a ride to and from the shop?

There are a ton of shops on the street that the DD is on.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Youre right, I showed IACV, not EGR - have EGR cleaning and gasket pics elsewhere (gasket is ruined when EGR is pulled, recommend the gasket with the screen in it)...

need to dig those pics up!


I had done my IACV on a previous engine, that is how I knew right away
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I drove through Linden and Rahway today, all by the big Home Depot and BJs out there.

Starting to be A Jersey Affair!
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*truck came from around Bridgewater. Volvo #2 came from West Milford area. Volvo #1 came from New Hampshire area...
 
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I really have to find somewhere that will actually TIME this thing.
frown.gif
Then let them do it while I wait.. as that is the second issue here.. I can't "drop it off"


Why not? Cant you get a ride to and from work for a few days? Can you get a ride to and from the shop?

There are a ton of shops on the street that the DD is on.


I *may* be able to pull that off. It's just a matter of finding one willing to do it, and ho wmuch they want! Then to find the ride out there..

***I get a lot of financial support from Mom, and she doesn't want me spending money on this. Therefore, she is reluctant to help me, and if she knew I was spending money on it, might not drive me in an attempt to impede my progress.

This is why I say, I have a day off tomorrow to take money and do whatever I please.....

Marcelo even wants to look at it, but his position on timing seems clear.
 
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When I had the second car, I used to just do whatever, whenever. So maybe I am going to enjoy Volvo #3 but have all this "Mom driving" drama until that happens..................
 
Quote:
Code 44 remaining would be sensible given that the O2 is likely not working. Given how cheap it is, Id just put it in, before you get it timed right, and see what it does for you.


I agree, and with tomorrow's daylight, I will make a real diligent effort to get the 02 unscrewed.

I may bot be able to put the copper on the thread,s but so what! Right?

And then, all I have to do is reach way up to disconnect where the sensor plugs in, and maybe I can see if SES returns! Leaving only the timing issue.

I described the "strings attached" since my Volvo went away
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(I forget what was up with Blazer at that time but the Volvo was way better.)
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I may bot be able to put the copper on the thread,s but so what! Right?


Wrong, not if you want to be able to remove it later on.

I don't see the issue, cut open the copper anti seize packet, apply a small amount around the threaded part of the sensor (emphasize small amount and only on the threads)and screw it in like a sparkplug

Here's a tip on the connector, look carefully at the new part then look under the truck and figure out what needs to be depressed, don't just manhandle it, they can get old and brittle. Also sometimes the connector end is hard to reach and work with. Generally the the socket is connected to some part of the body with either a friction pin molded into the back connector that fits into a hole on a bracket or a cable tie. Sometimes easier to press that out and drop the connector , (this gives you more room to work) then disconnect the sensor. If your do this just be sure to tie it back up when you are done. IIRC the Desno's come with some nice high heat braiding on the wiring, you want to make sure the wire is routed away from any exhaust pipes
 
^OP is short on money. Optimally he would buy and apply anti-seize to the threads and silicone dielectric grease to the connector. For the price of two donuts he could buy two packs at the autozone and apply them. Antiseize is usually labeled as such and the silicone dielectric is usually labeled as tune up grease or something like that.

If he is too short due to the costs of getting it timed, he could go back under and fix these shortcomings if he doesnt apply the right chemicals the first time. Hate to do jobs twice, but it may be good practice and defer some costs.

He should check if the O2 sensor already has some anti-seize on its threads.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
^OP is short on money. Optimally he would buy and apply anti-seize to the threads and silicone dielectric grease to the connector. For the price of two donuts he could buy two packs at the autozone and apply them. Antiseize is usually labeled as such and the silicone dielectric is usually labeled as tune up grease or something like that.

If he is too short due to the costs of getting it timed, he could go back under and fix these shortcomings if he doesnt apply the right chemicals the first time. Hate to do jobs twice, but it may be good practice and defer some costs.

He should check if the O2 sensor already has some anti-seize on its threads.



The Denso brand sensors come with a small packet of copper antisieze. Have used them quite often and just checked in my garage to confirm the (2) spare I have

Shown on the left in this photo

bd6bc060ada08de4f54a2210.L._AA300_.jpg
 
Perfect... That solves that.

OP, use some vaseline sparingly on the metal connectors on the sensor if there is no clear silicone grease on them. Better yet, buy the $1 pack or $3 bottle to protect the connection.

Use the anti seize sparingly and go at it!
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs

***I get a lot of financial support from Mom, and she doesn't want me spending money on this. Therefore, she is reluctant to help me, and if she knew I was spending money on it, might not drive me in an attempt to impede my progress.


So, you're living under her roof, getting rides to work, but not being honest with her? She means well, I bet.

However, you might be close to getting this thing legal.

I still haven't seen pics of how your o2 sensor is positioned in the truck. You might be able to get a box end wrench on there with the opposite end at 3 oclock. If so, you can put a 2x4 or whatever on a jack then jack up on the opposite end of the wrench and use the weight of the truck to break the sensor free.

Enough of this PB blaster, it won't help. Enough worrying about anti seize... the sensor comes with it and there'll be some leftovers on the threads. This sensor is either coming out again in a week or staying the next twenty years-- either way, won't really need antisieze.
 
Originally Posted By: cmorr
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
^OP is short on money. Optimally he would buy and apply anti-seize to the threads and silicone dielectric grease to the connector. For the price of two donuts he could buy two packs at the autozone and apply them. Antiseize is usually labeled as such and the silicone dielectric is usually labeled as tune up grease or something like that.

If he is too short due to the costs of getting it timed, he could go back under and fix these shortcomings if he doesnt apply the right chemicals the first time. Hate to do jobs twice, but it may be good practice and defer some costs.

He should check if the O2 sensor already has some anti-seize on its threads.



The Denso brand sensors come with a small packet of copper antisieze. Have used them quite often and just checked in my garage to confirm the (2) spare I have

Shown on the left in this photo

bd6bc060ada08de4f54a2210.L._AA300_.jpg



Yes, mine has that. Also, same exact part!!!

Catching up on reading, let me see..

Still have to get this TIMED. Would LOVE to do that today. Seems Marcelo shop doesnt wanna.

JHZR2? Ideas?

I also feel I cant get 02 sensor off. I tried. Literally Midnight Mechanic (1:44AM I took it in, started around.. midnight..) - I feel I am moving a corner but not the whole thing, and upon really looking at it, will go over to "the parts changers" as I call them in an hour and a half so they can torch it out and put my new one in. Easy peasy. They MAY even do it for free......... THEN I can worry about:

1. TIMING. TIMING. TIMING. TIMING.
2. To check out T&E for some parts, if there is a donor truck.

I don't have a computer of my own, either.

Quote:
Here's a tip on the connector, look carefully at the new part then look under the truck and figure out what needs to be depressed, don't just manhandle it, they can get old and brittle


I was successfully able to get the connector off. I spent about an hour under the truck early morning. I concluded that the 02 sensor was too well "welded in" and PB would not free it, also that I could not get the box end wrench on without having to cut wires if I did, and I did not feel comfortable doing that.

Would not be surprised if the parts changers get it off in 5 minutes with my PB Blaster penetration sprays, and a torch, maybe even with my wrench with a breaker bar if they cut the wires and put the box end on it. Again, they may do it for free. i am going to go over in an hour and a half to find out! (Truck sat and cooled all night.)

Then TIMING!!!!!!!

And, NJians: Do they "take your car off the road" if it fails inspection a 3rd time? NO, right??? (I need to heck the date on that paper now.)

Seemed to not smell exhaust since EGR cleaning, but my nose is not that accurate. Still, though.. Code 44, intermittent.. Which brings us to where we are!
 
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Here are many of your problems in a Venn Diagram.

Not picking on you, but I've seen this, in my boss of all people.
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His sunfire ran awful in the rain. Every time it rained he asked me why. "Plugs and wires" I answered. Might as well have suggested he attempt a moon landing.

"Do you think it needs an oil change?" he asked, as it was within his world view.

"Probably", I replied, "but it also needs plugs and wires."

Then one rainy day it didn't start and I went over to his slum and put plugs and wires on, on the side of the road. It started and I looked like a certified genius. (tm)

So, back to you. The Blazer needs timing, that's in the dark blue section. You seem to know this so it's also in the pink section. We haven't vindicated it yet via pro with timing light so we can't say it's orange.

I'd be curious to have a "good" shop audit your work and this forum's remote diagnoses. This would fill out the blue ball.

You do know some stuff from the Volvo and other cars that are outside the dark blue ball. You seem to be trying to shove this knowledge into the blazer, at times inappropriately.

This explains your fetish for snake oils and other bottle cures: you "know" them and are trying to hammer said square pegs into round holes... to mix metaphors.

Long story short: Pay attention to the advice you're given.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs

***I get a lot of financial support from Mom, and she doesn't want me spending money on this. Therefore, she is reluctant to help me, and if she knew I was spending money on it, might not drive me in an attempt to impede my progress.


So, you're living under her roof, getting rides to work, but not being honest with her? She means well, I bet.

However, you might be close to getting this thing legal.

I still haven't seen pics of how your o2 sensor is positioned in the truck. You might be able to get a box end wrench on there with the opposite end at 3 oclock. If so, you can put a 2x4 or whatever on a jack then jack up on the opposite end of the wrench and use the weight of the truck to break the sensor free.

Enough of this PB blaster, it won't help. Enough worrying about anti seize... the sensor comes with it and there'll be some leftovers on the threads. This sensor is either coming out again in a week or staying the next twenty years-- either way, won't really need antisieze.


The phone serves pretty well for pics and videos. I will get the truck up on ramps and show you how it gets up on/in there. Getting that back today; Had to take it somewhere with full CDMA Workshop (Pro?) to get it flashed to Boost. Had to. Kept not being able to "get the unlock code" and I did good in flashing the phone's "lock" off, so, now I should get phone back today.

Still counting dollars, though I may be able to squeeze out getting it timed. How long does that take? How much would a shop charge? Since I may be looking today. Earnestly seeking out, I'm giving it everything I got...

Also, I never asked Marcelo how much he wanted for EGR. I also am having issues leaving that truck, my Blazer, ANYWHERE, for ANY length of time, unless I go walk around while they work (since I always thought they dont like when you stay there and watch while they work) because of this Mom/driving thing. (She won't. AND she is going to Trinity Church in NYC today with her friend.)

Might take it to Borinquen Auto in Elizabeth NJ. Co-worker says they can get it timed. I hope?? .. That's my strongest lead, in the absence of any others.. And I hope THEY don't say "Sounds pretty good".

I drove it with 02 sensor disconnected and when cold, the timing issues (making a cut-out/surge at idle, almost stall once) surfaced.

As to the VENNdiagram: EGR valve "helped but didnt fix."

I think said EGR is still dirty. He really didnt spray much.. Though I mean, it IS better..
 
Never seen spray fix an EGR valve. If you actually have an EGR valve problem, then I would simply replace, and make certain you use a new gasket.
 
If he only removed some light carbon in the EGR valve, but the ports in the Intake manifold are still clogged solid with carbon, cleaning the EGR valve is not going to accomplish anything useful (think Chevy 3.1 V-6 issues with clogged EGR ports).

I think that Venn Diagram was way too genererous with what Techologs knows, and how much of that crossed over with what he can do to his Blazer.

I'm also amazed that with the sheer number of pictures that he posts, he hasn't posted a single one of his O2 sensor that arrived as of yet. I would have expected about 10 pictures, including ones with it next to the original that is still attached to the car, and one with the wrench on it, confirming it is the correct size wrench in order to install it.

He must be slacking.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
So, back to you. The Blazer needs timing, that's in the dark blue section. You seem to know this so it's also in the pink section. We haven't vindicated it yet via pro with timing light so we can't say it's orange.


Great post and I liked the story with the Sunfire. Any estimates on what it would cost roughly to time the Blazer??? Not only are your posts full of info but I like the humor in them as well. Good mix!
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